Tricky Ignition

[ccorbin81]

Good morning,


I pulled out the relay this morning located in the driver kick. Here are the specs I found for testing it.

• STA - E1 = 17 - 25 ohms
• +B - Fc = 88 - 132 ohms
• +B - Fp = Infinite ohms (i.e. open circuit) w/ relay off
• +B - Fp = 0 ohms w/ relay on

I tested it with my meter and here are the results.

• STA - E1 = 21ohms
• +B - Fc = 121ohms
• +B - Fp = OL

How can I safely energize the relay to test (+B - Fp = 0 ohms w/ relay on)? Or is this irrelevent? It seems the relay is functioning properly, is there anything between this relay and the diagnostic port B+?

Should the terminal where B+ for this relay connects get 12v with ignition on? I don't get any voltage on any of the pins when I test them with ign on and off.

[btwilson86]

I'm not sure how to test it on the vehicle, what I've always done in the past to test 12V relays is make a "harness" (a couple wires and some female spade connectors) to plug into the coil side of the relay. I then just hook the other end of the harness into the car battery and check the continuity of the switch side of the relay.


I'll admit I'm also not the best at deciphering wire diagrams, but it seems to me that the B+ power starts at the 15 AMP EFI fuse in the underhood fuse box, then through the EFI Main Relay (which I believe is also in that fuse box). The more I'm reading, the more I'm starting to think that I may have jumped the gun on suggesting the circuit opening relay, as it seems the contacts are only closed while starting and while air is moving through the AFM.