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Stock
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 11
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Compression test = Check.
Boost leak test, 25psi = Check. Different afm test = check(no difference) AFM cleaned = Check(no change) Found a small vacuum line that feeds the boost control had blown off the manifold, that's why the idle was shit after I left the mechanic and did a pull, blew it right off. Car is new to 17psi so there's one thing checked off. Ruffed up the fitting and zipped tied, Check. I notice randomly it sometimes has a good idle, 15ish, max 16. Then other times it sits 16.9-17.9. Also I have not heard that noise more than those first 2 times.
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87 turbo 5spd targa - 340whp @ 12psi 60-1 ct26 -- Head port and polish -- 550cc injectors -- 3" DDP + 3" straight pipe -- Areomotive AFPR -- CXRacing fmic -- Apexi' NEO -- |
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#2 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Tune the low maps so the ECU isn't working too hard to get the proper AFR. Also, you need to tune the low and mid maps to get somewhere close to 14.7:1 as the ECU isn't always in closed loop in those ranges. You can't stray much from what the ECU wants the AFR to be at in the low and mid maps but yes, you need to tune them all. For the high loads (about 70% throttle or more) you can tune for whatever AFR you like. My preference is to tune the mechanical hardware to get as close as possible across the whole spectrum and then us the fuel controller to fine tune everything. Try unplugging the stock O2 sensor feed to the ECU (forcing the ECU into full time open loop mode), tune after a cold start, aim for 13.5ish for the low map and 14.5ish for the mids, reconnect the O2 sensor.
Do NOT try to clean the AFM. You can blow the honeycomb out with some compressed air but NO cleaning solutions or solvents. The sensor is optical and if the cleaner enters the sensor or fogs the lens the entire thing may be ruined or way out of whack.
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