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Old 05-30-2013, 04:33 PM   #1
pandrade
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Default better throtte response

i know my mk3 could use a rebuild and this is one of the main reasons why the throttle response is not excactly the best. my mk3 has 1450k miles on it and the factory turbo still on.

besides a better intercooler and pipes, and possibly a bigger throttle body and a rebuild would be huge improvment along whith a modern garrett turbo, get rid of the mechanical fan, what can i do to increase response( by throttle response i mean only motor work not reducing drive line waight like fly wheel drive shafts and exc..)

ther intercooler is what i would use and beech performance now makes the q45 thrttle body adapter for our cars so we dont have to hack wires

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-new7mickit.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-bpm-202-24.php
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:30 PM   #2
MA70-3.0GT
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Wow did you really mean just under one and a half million miles, or was that a typo with extra 0? Can't figure which as the motor being tired would suggest an "intergalactic" car but original turbo surely wouldn't last that long :/ Props to you & previous owners if you did get 1,450,000 miles on the stock turbo though that's some regular oil changes!
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:17 PM   #3
pandrade
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ohh no it was a typo I posted from my phone which hates proper grammar and good input.

wish it had 1.4mill miles on it Akio Toyoda himself might come and take a pick and shake my hand lol maybe give me a new car just as a thanks.

since im in the process of installing a full throttle gen 2 piggy back I thought while im in there I can work on the response, this 3 inch gm mass air flow meter should help out a little
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:19 PM   #4
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haha yeah suppose it's possible, although I don't think He'd be *that* surprised if the basic engine lasted that long as they're pretty solidly built apart from the head torque thing... But at 145k unless it's been neglected in the past or driven exceptionally hard I'd expect the bores/rings etc to be in great shape still

What makes you suspect it's tired, smoke/low compressions or just a suspicion? If the bottom end's fine I'd say perhaps just a head refresh with either a valve reseat or maybe just stem seals might be the way to go for it. On the throttle response you could maybe look into a modern VNT turbo or at the very least a roller bearing Garrett like you said, and isn't there something about using an N/A inlet or exhaust cam too? (not sure which one it was, or if it's even a myth maybe but I did read somewhere on here that one of the N/A cams is an improvement over the turbo one)
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit...

'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...

'83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks

'95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it
I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:56 PM   #5
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no the compresion is fine but it just doesnt feel like its pulling as hard as it should, (of coarse takeing in account its made in 87 and has very old electronics)

the N/A cams thing is a myth cre has disproven this before. i cant find the thread at this moment but the gte cams are in fact hotter. they have more lift and i belive the same deg slightly higher intake i could be wrong tho
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:03 AM   #6
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Cool thought it sounded strange. Probably just a newer/better turbo would be the single biggest difference to throttle response then IMO (and free flowing exhaust from the turbo back of course). Apart from that I think you've pretty much covered it with the new I/C, hard boost pipes, electric fan etc... I think I may have heard of people underdriving the alternator with a smaller pulley too but not sure how much difference that would make.
Actually on that path, another thing could be to remove the thermostat, "gut" the water pump & fit an electric one with an extra CTS to control the flow, that'd give faster warmup & better cooling control as well as reducing drag on the crank. Another thing is you can have it on a timer so the water still circulates after shutdown. http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/CO...512/index.html That's an English seller but Davies Craig pumps are the ones most people seem to be trusting...
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit...

'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...

'83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks

'95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it
I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!

Last edited by MA70-3.0GT; 06-01-2013 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 06-01-2013, 01:18 PM   #7
pandrade
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yah besides better turbo and the things i said earlier i cant think of much else.drift motion sells new crank alt and ps pully which they save 2.6 lbs which helps a lot. i want to install a 1 piece aluminum drive shaft and i already have a super light fly wheel. not much else i can do

i would steer clear of electric water pumps, they are good enough for tracks where the car is always in motion and wont heat saturate but for a street car it will get overwhelmed very easily especialy here in florida, also when you got the belt driven pump there is peace of mind about reliability, when it lockes up or fails you will hear it but electic can fail and if your not looken at the water temp (like an instance the gf would drive the car) it could have failed and never noticed it
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