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Old 11-24-2012, 04:09 PM   #11
ItsOthatOguy
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When pressure testing the fuel pump, where do I connect it to? Also the car was bought from a used car dealership. History of the car is unknown. However, the previous owner kept all records of maintainance back to 1987.

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Old 11-25-2012, 08:01 PM   #12
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I'd connect the gauge to the port for the cold start injector (near the center of the fuel rail or at the pulsation damper's port at the rear of the fuel rail.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:33 PM   #13
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Ok new problem. I just changed the fuel pump and put in a new relay. The car would start but not run long. And now won't start at all
What do I do? Has anyone heard of this problem?
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:05 PM   #14
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Question 87 turbo

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Originally Posted by ItsOthatOguy View Post
Ok new problem. I just changed the fuel pump and put in a new relay. The car would start but not run long. And now won't start at all
What do I do? Has anyone heard of this problem?
Hi! Questions? If the car was bought from a used car dealer , was there a warranty you could call on? , How long is " not long " ? -seconds ? minutes ? ? How does the engine die ? ,slowly ( fuel starvation ) ? Quickly ( spark stop ) ? misfire ? Start and stop ? , the more symptoms info you can supply to give a bigger picture , the quicker the answer can be found . Have you checked the fuel filter ? is the loom connected to the mass air filter ? .

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Old 11-29-2012, 11:06 PM   #15
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Hey! Unfortunately there is no warranty. I bought it "as is". It would idle for about 2 seconds, drop to about 250 rpm and then bounce back to normal idle, then die. About two start attempts later, it would start and then die about a second later. It dies quickly. It would there is no misfire because it sounds and feels smooth. Now it only cranks, no start
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:44 PM   #16
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Question 87 turbo

Okay , It sounds to me that you may have a poor connection to your mass airflow meter ,this is an engine management problem . This happened to me when I forgot to reconnect it after removing the intake for another problem , The engine " caught " -then died , absolutely essential for a smooth engine , by reconnecting the wiring the curcuit was complete and the engine was fine .OR! you might have a poor earth connection at your coils PLATE ,( straddles the cam covers ) this needs to be connected to the cylinder head ( NOT the cam covers , they're insulated ). There are times when you can have single , double or multiple problems , I suggest you make a list and go through it until you get it started and running properly .Good Earths ? Good connections ? Fuel ? , Sparks ? good fuses ? good relays ? clean spark plugs ? etc,etc.

Last edited by interested!; 11-30-2012 at 12:25 AM. Reason: extra info .
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:29 AM   #17
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No diagnostic codes present?
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:17 AM   #18
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Now that I checked it, the light doesnt come on period!!! I want to say no, but I'm not sure if the light works. Generally speaking, If there is no problem, does the check engine light come on when you turn the battery on? I also have a 1986.5 NA that does. It'll come on for a second then go off. Is it supposed to be like that in a turbo?
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:32 AM   #19
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See the thread about checking error/diagnostic codes in the MKIII FAQ section.

Yes, when the ignition is turned to the "ON" position but the engine is not running the check engine light is supposed to be on. Once the engine is turned on the light will turn off unless certain critical error conditions (very high level warnings) have been recorded. There are many problems which may cause the light to turn on only once and many others which won't trigger the check engine light at all so you should check for diagnostic codes anytime you have problems and it's a good idea to check them whenever you change the oil or even when you just check the oil while getting gas.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:20 AM   #20
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Well that right there is a problem. My CE light wont come on at all.
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