Correct Cre, no power at all. Even with jumpers on it I have nothing.
the battery wires, and the grounds look great so I guess I'll check the link.

Replaced the fusible link today, still no power anywhere....anyone know what I should check next?

I know how to proceed but first you need to get a multimeter and look up a couple tutorials on how to use them to test certain things. The first things we'll be testing are voltage and voltage drop.

I know how to use a multimeter, I just need to know where to look next. The problem like I said before is that I dont even get power when the car is hooked up to jumper cables. So Im not quite sure what voltage drop would have to do with it. I do know that on the battery I have 12v. That is as far as I have looked though. Cre you saying I need to go through and check every fuse as the next step?

Sorry, I see a lot of posts like this and guess I got confused. I thought it was you who said they had no multimeter (which often accompanies a lack of familiarity with its usage).

Anyway, no, you don't need to start testing every fuse. Read through this and find the point where you are losing power. If you've really lost power on every circuit it's either the battery, battery cable, fusible link or ground.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...px?S=Main&P=36


EDIT: Note that there is also a fusible link inline in the battery cable. If you have no power at the ALT FL in the engine bay fuse box this is a likely reason. I honestly don't think I've ever heard of it going on anyone though and I've never looked at it to see just how robust it is.

Found that I'm not getting power at the fuse link in the relay/fuse box under the hood. I am getting power at the starter but I had some questions about that. I for sure am getting power to the starter, but I cant find the power out of it.(although part of that could be that I am having a hard time getting to the starter since I dont have a jack yet.) I also am concerned about the wires that I see coming out of it. Any feed back would be good.

The main positive cable that goes to the starter is directly connected to the battery; you should always have power there. The little wire is what triggers the starter to run, that wire should only have power when the key is in the start position

Yeah, one of my concerns is that the yellow wire there goes into the firewall up high and there is also a bundle of wires(looks like the original harness) that goes forward and splits up by the battery.

Looks to me like they just used an insulation piercing tap to replace the old, high gauge solenoid wire. It's probably run right up to the starter relay inside the car. Not a big deal although I would just ditch the splice and put a regular spade connector on the yellow wire and toss the little piece that's left from the factory wire.

So, what is the trick to pulling the starter? Spent almost an hour and a half and I could get a wrench on the bolt, but there was no room to turn it.

Trick? There is no trick.... I suppose if I had to I'd say the trick is to replace it when you pull the engine for a rebuild. Removing the intakes manifold and using stubby, ratcheting box ends are all I can tell ya.

Taps fingers lightly, where do you have the jump cables attached? If you say the battery WRONG! Attach the positive to the positive on battery and the negative jumper wire to the frame of the car. something should turn on! if not start from the battery and go toward the cars circuits.

Actually I recommend you bring it down to a qualified mechanic. This thread has gotten pathetic. This is not brain surgery!Take a class in basic electrical troubleshooting.