Need Help with Replacing Clutch Master Cylinder

xxx609 · 01-31-2012, 04:58 PM

To "CanadianBak..." Job complete!!! Thanks for your help. It took less than a half hour to remove and re-install the seat and the lower dash panel. But my neighbor and I struggled with that visually inaccessible nut on the clutch master cylinder stud for over an hour: A 2.5" deep-well socket on a 5.5" ratchet extension seemed to work best; although only in 1/8-turns because of LIMITED space. I was smart enough to stuff rags around the wiring behind the lower driver's kick-panel to prevent the loss of any spring clips/nuts, etc. Yank the old master out and in with the new. Fight some more getting the barely accessible nut back on; replace the 2nd nut in a few seconds; re-adjust the clutch pedal throw and free-play; insert the clevis pin and spring pin - good to go!! A quick road test verifiied that the clutch/starter interlock worked OK and the position of the clutch pedal-to-cruise control disengagement worked OK. At my age (65) some Advil or Alleve before AND after the work helps with aches and pains.
Removing the seat is a neccessity - just lie on your back with your feet/legs resting on the folded down rear seat. Prepare to spend a good 4 hours if you've never done this before. (Time for another test drive to admire my work!!!)

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01-31-2012, 04:58 PM	#7
xxx609 Stock Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 3	To "CanadianBak..." Job complete!!! Thanks for your help. It took less than a half hour to remove and re-install the seat and the lower dash panel. But my neighbor and I struggled with that visually inaccessible nut on the clutch master cylinder stud for over an hour: A 2.5" deep-well socket on a 5.5" ratchet extension seemed to work best; although only in 1/8-turns because of LIMITED space. I was smart enough to stuff rags around the wiring behind the lower driver's kick-panel to prevent the loss of any spring clips/nuts, etc. Yank the old master out and in with the new. Fight some more getting the barely accessible nut back on; replace the 2nd nut in a few seconds; re-adjust the clutch pedal throw and free-play; insert the clevis pin and spring pin - good to go!! A quick road test verifiied that the clutch/starter interlock worked OK and the position of the clutch pedal-to-cruise control disengagement worked OK. At my age (65) some Advil or Alleve before AND after the work helps with aches and pains. Removing the seat is a neccessity - just lie on your back with your feet/legs resting on the folded down rear seat. Prepare to spend a good 4 hours if you've never done this before. (Time for another test drive to admire my work!!!)