Need Help with Replacing Clutch Master Cylinder
 

New user here with a '90 MkIII. Can anyone provide me with any tips for replacing a new clutch master cylinder?
I removed the lower driver's side dash panel and removed the seat to stretch myself out a little easier. One nut to the clutch cylinder is inaccessible!! I noticed that there's a metal bracket that holds the clutch pedal assembly to the metal bottom of the dashboard area - one easily accessible bolt to the bottom of the dash, but I can't determine if the portion of that bracket that mounts to the firewall is spot-welded to the firewall or is only bolted to the firewall with the studs of the new clutch master cyclinder.
Bottom line is - wha's the easier/best way to that inaccessible clutch master cylinder nut. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

this is an assembly from an 87 i hope this helps:
Attachment 4461
^there should be 1 small bolt and 2 nuts from the master and then a clevis pin and clip connecting the pedal to the piston. they should all be possible with extension combos, or possibly stuby wrenches. its been awhile but i remember it being a big pain in the mark3...

the below pictures are in my 84 (mark2) it used to be an automatic trans. the assembly are almost the same so it give ya an idea what it looks like down there...
Attachment 4462
Attachment 4463
only one nut is visible, the bolt at the very top and the other nut is time consuming...

Thanks very much for the hints and the pictures! I realize that the 2nd nut from the master is not visible and that you must get it by "feel". I don't look forward to that. For future reference, your 1st photo shows the pedal bracket off the car. So.....the single bolt to the bottom of the dash and the two studs from the clutch master are the only attachment points that affix the bracket to the car???

yes just that bolt holds it, and the fact that it sandwiches the firewall between itself and the master cylinder, with the two studs on the master.

this whole job just sucks...
PS, its not manditory that you bench bleed but does take alot less time during the bleeding process.
good luck!

it is sitting the right way up in my picture the one bolt is in the top. the two studs are at the bottem:bigthumb:

Taking the seat out makes the job a whole lot easier.

To "CanadianBak..." Job complete!!! Thanks for your help. It took less than a half hour to remove and re-install the seat and the lower dash panel. But my neighbor and I struggled with that visually inaccessible nut on the clutch master cylinder stud for over an hour: A 2.5" deep-well socket on a 5.5" ratchet extension seemed to work best; although only in 1/8-turns because of LIMITED space. I was smart enough to stuff rags around the wiring behind the lower driver's kick-panel to prevent the loss of any spring clips/nuts, etc. Yank the old master out and in with the new. Fight some more getting the barely accessible nut back on; replace the 2nd nut in a few seconds; re-adjust the clutch pedal throw and free-play; insert the clevis pin and spring pin - good to go!! A quick road test verifiied that the clutch/starter interlock worked OK and the position of the clutch pedal-to-cruise control disengagement worked OK. At my age (65) some Advil or Alleve before AND after the work helps with aches and pains.
Removing the seat is a neccessity - just lie on your back with your feet/legs resting on the folded down rear seat. Prepare to spend a good 4 hours if you've never done this before. (Time for another test drive to admire my work!!!)

good to hear you got the job done!:bigthumb: