High Idle above 3k - Error Code 51

[dlfred]

That's good news on the oil pressure problem, will check that later today.

The timing was correct prior to adjusting the TPS.Do you think that it would be running like this if it were off? I will definitely will check it though.

Is it common to have ohm readings much lower than spec on the TPS?

Idle is at 1250 rpm's. Running on 4 cylinders. The only other thing I failed to mention is when I disconnected the TB the first time I dumped a bunch of anti-freeze on top of the motor when I disconnected a hose. Would that cause my misfiring?

Oh also the 3 lights went out and now just the yellow brake light warning light is on, but all lights are working.

Thank you for your input and help.

[cre]

Originally Posted by dlfred

The timing was correct prior to adjusting the TPS.Do you think that it would be running like this if it were off? I will definitely will check it though.

Don't know which part of "you cannot set the timing if you have ANY codes present" I was unclear on but you cannot set the timing if you have ANY codes present. So, if you had codes present you didn't actually set the timing... more likely put it off by 40 degrees.

Originally Posted by dlfred

Is it common to have ohm readings much lower than spec on the TPS?

The TPS is a wear component. If it's not reading within the range specified in the TSRM then you need to ... (care to guess what I'm about to say?) ... replace it.

Originally Posted by dlfred

Idle is at 1250 rpm's. Running on 4 cylinders. The only other thing I failed to mention is when I disconnected the TB the first time I dumped a bunch of anti-freeze on top of the motor when I disconnected a hose. Would that cause my misfiring?

Um, is this a rhetorical question? Electricity + wiring + spark plugs + water = bad stuff (in this case a short), so I'm going to have to say that there's a strong possibility they're related.

Pull the plug wires out and check how much coolant the plugs are swimming in. If it's a few table spoons then just pull the plugs and let it drop into the cylinders (there's no way you're getting it out... not even with a straw and it'll burn off in just a few seconds). If there's more than that the start pushing paper towels in there and soak up as much as possible. Dry the plugs and the plug wires very thoroughly.

[dlfred]

That was it. I found a good bit of coolant in around 2 or 3 plugs. Did as you said and it runs like it did before I dumped coolant all over the top of the motor. Thank you.

My car still runs at 1200 rpm and has always had a high idle since I purchased it. The throttle stop screws are backed off and not doing anything idle related.
Is there a dash pot setting in the shop manual?

Has anyone had a problem with the water being pushed into the coolant overflow tank? This was happening before the HG repair and is still a problem.
Will a high idle do this?
No smoke from exhaust. No water in oil. No fluid on the ground.

Thanks again for the input on the poor running condition.

[cre]

Dashpot adjustment. With the engine running have someone race the engine up to ~2500 rpm. Block the little vacuum hose coming from the can to the little filter and have the person behind the wheel let off. It should maintain an RPM of around 2200 while plugged and once released should come down with just a little resistance to keep it from snapping shut.

Other suspects are the air bypass / mixture screws on the AFM and on the throttle body... the are NOT user serviceable so naturally every dimwit f@cks with those first. Then the coolant temp sensor, A/C signal, vacuum leaks, stuck ISCV, bad AFM.

Coolant blowing out the reservoir? If not a bad radiator cap and not over heating, I've got some bad news for you. Test the coolant's pH for signs of exhaust gasses getting blown into the coolant system and check the oil for signs of condensation or thinning from fuel. Did you get the block and head resurfaced? MHG or OEM composite HG?

[dlfred]

Originally Posted by cre

Other suspects are the air bypass / mixture screws on the AFM and on the throttle body... the are NOT user serviceable so naturally every dimwit f@cks with those first. Then the coolant temp sensor, A/C signal, vacuum leaks, stuck ISCV, bad AFM.?

How would you tell and what would you do "if" someone messed with the non-serviceable screws?

Originally Posted by cre

Coolant blowing out the reservoir? If not a bad radiator cap and not over heating, I've got some bad news for you. Test the coolant's pH for signs of exhaust gasses getting blown into the coolant system and check the oil for signs of condensation or thinning from fuel. Did you get the block and head resurfaced? MHG or OEM composite HG

I picked up a new cap last night. I have not had any water in the oil nor does it blow smoke from exhaust. I did get the head resurfaced but not the block. I believe it was a OEM style gasket.

[dlfred]

Originally Posted by cre

Don't know which part of "you cannot set the timing if you have ANY codes present" I was unclear on but you cannot set the timing if you have ANY codes present. So, if you had codes present you didn't actually set the timing... more likely put it off by 40 degrees.

You where crystal clear. When I did the HG, I did not have any codes, that is the last time I set the timing. The code did not appear until the throttle plate adjustment screw backed out and raised the idle.

Originally Posted by cre

The TPS is a wear component. If it's not reading within the range specified in the TSRM then you need to ... (care to guess what I'm about to say?) ... replace it.

The readings are in the range but just very low on the range.


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