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#1 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Depends on the builder's goals... but for the most part... no. A nice high power, low boost build is nice for off the line response but you can easily make up the difference in a lower compression build by upping the boost at a lesser expense with regard to reliability. With cast internals going for a high compression build is a joke and seldom anything more than a bad idea.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() |
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#2 |
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walbro fp
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: spokane
Posts: 479
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ah gotcha. yea i agree with the cast internals thing, but ive seen it done before and quite successfully.
guess it all depends on what you build it for as you said! i read an article about boost, thermal soak etc etc. basically the lower you can run the boost, the better efficiency you can achieve. probably more directed toward superchargers cuz thats how they work. if u can run lower boost you get less thermal buildup and soak, therefore more power potential. within a certain range of course lol. idk, too many variables. pertaining to this article, i think that he could effectively run boost but it wont last as long as a straight turbo build.
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87 toyota 4x4 single cab short box pickup, 7MGZE. |
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#3 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Thermal soak (with regard to intake charge temps) is more of a concern with superchargers (varies by design), hot-air setups (SC or turbo with no intercooler) or setups with inefficient intercoolers. Some of the great benefits of the turbo are that the heat generated by compressing the air is only a part-time affair (while you're boosting and for a cool down period after) and the engine is generally starting from a cooler state to begin with. It can become an issue if you're trying to drive up the side of a mountain with any kind of compressor but that's not something we generally try to do with sports and GT cars... We're just trying to hit a target speed as quick as possible and once there our engine essentially rests while keeping that speed (unless you're trying to maintain a speed of 120MPH, of course). Decent charge cooling on any kind of setup will generally allow for a substantial and safe increase in boost.
Generally, an increase in static compression produces less power per cycle than an increase in boost (dynamic compression) would with the sole benefit of an increased torque baseline (nice in a truck, especially if hauling loads). It also lowers the ceiling on how much boost you can run VERY quickly (crappy in a GT car).
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() |
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#4 |
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20psi boost
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Harrisburg
Posts: 759
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The one thing I have been wondering about is how do you fix that dent? Slide hammer or would it be easier to weld a new section in?
My opinion on the mk3's is that if you are going to put money in it anyway then you might as well start out with a nicer one. Yes you will spend a little more but it will end up nicer in the end. |
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#5 |
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walbro fp
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: spokane
Posts: 479
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ah gotcha, makes much more sense to me now cre, thanks!
as for the car, id say drive it as is now, build another PROPER motor on the side (and fix up the car while your at it) then when this one pops, drop the built beast in and voila, nice car and nice upgraded motor, but you can drive it in the mean time.
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87 toyota 4x4 single cab short box pickup, 7MGZE. |
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#6 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 96
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Thanks guys.....And Thanks for the always useful info Cre......Just got the car for a daily driver.....Not sure what oil pump was used, I will have to call the guy and ask. I know he used a metal head gasket, I will have to ask what size.....I do have a spare GTE block I might build and throw in because I do want the car to last a while for a daily driver....I have another supra turbo 5spd that I'm slowly building up so I wont be racing this one at all
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IF IT AINT A SUPRA IT AINT SH*T!! 87 Supra N/A JDM 7MGTE, 8psi, 2.5inch Exhaust, 18inch Rim's, 255/45/18 rear, 255/40/18 front, 3inch DP, Ported 3inch elbow, Stage 2 6 puck Clutch 95 Eclipse GST 15psi, 3inch Stainless Steel Exhaust, 3inch DP, MBC, 2.5inch Upper I/C piping, Short Throw Shifter, Stainless Steel turbo inlet, Type S BOV (Sold) 89 Supra Turbo, 12psi, 3inch Exhaust, Ebay intake, 2.5inch Upper I/C piping, ARP Head Studs, Stainless Turbo Manifold Tial BOV (Sold) (Sold) |
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#7 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Baby the hell out of it and it'll probably last you a good long while. Drive it hard and you just don't know, might die in the middle of the first hard pull might last 5 years... finding out what exactly is in there will help you guestimate which is more likely.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() |
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