a true stand alone would be the best. But you can always look at the maft-pro. good good data on those laying all over man.
best of luck.

and by stroke it, Im assuming you were referring to your stoker kit.

Yea, when I first looked at the kit I didnt realize what all it came with but after looking at it again I realized that it isnt as badly priced as I thought it was

around here, the guys i use for the actual machine work (bore, hone, decking, surfacing and cleaning etc....) is S&J. they arent toyota specific, so dont have them do a valve job unless they can walk you through their process.

anyway, they did a great job on my block and surfacing the head. the porting and polishing i did myself. i dont know about any shops in the area that do that kind of work, and it wouldnt be cheap if they were around here.

update on parts list....1mm oversize valve package isn't gonna happen...less machinework and saves me 1500 for minimal gains, also not buying rebuild kit cuz im getting the major stuff from it anyway, so just getting a gasket kit, total is now somewhere around 14500, saving program has started

sounds like a good way to save a few bux. if you were gonna do a 5 angle valve job, pas on it. the gains are minimal unless you run a full on race motor that gets redone every few races.

i was gonna say, if you go full standalone on the EMS, forgoe the HKS twin power as well. get some CDI coils and run them with the CPS and full standalone.

i normally steer people away from aluminum flywheels, but it depends on the kind of driving you plan on doing, and the power goals you have in mind. and i dont recall ever getting those nailed down...

im lookin at it being streetable, but also want to run it at the track and possibly drift in it as well, not going to learn in it since im putting so much into it but want to be able to goof off every now and then with it when i want to, so i figured aluminum flywheel would be nice to reduce rotational mass

id prolly pass on the flywheel. if youre drifting at all the flywheel is good for keeping rotating mass inertia up, so when you shift youre motor will hold its revs better instead of being able to bleed off rpms quicker. and you wont really notice a difference on the street with the rest of your build. a stock resurfaced and balanced flywheel would be a better choice in my opinion.

just my 2 cents!

thats what im asking for is peoples 2 cents! its always nice to hear suggestions of what ppl think will help this build and what may not be really necessary and i take all of that into consideration through this process, this is the first car i will be really building up to such an extent. while i know how to make power and torque, ive never really dealt with turbo except military vehicles and they don't let us upgrade, so this is a learning process for me, i appreciate all the help very much!

Cant wait to see the finished project. Hit me up when its done or whenever and we will cruise around tacoma or even kent. Waiting to get a title for a shell I just bought and getting my turbo rebuilt/upgraded.

conga-the build is a while away, im in afghanistan right now but will definately let you know when it gets done, trying to figure out somewhere i can do the build at right now is my biggest thing really, did some more work on the parts list and have drastically reduced to a little under 11000 not including body, paint, FMS, tires, any sensors needing replaced, machine work, wideband and gauges so i know price is goin to go up by atleast 2500 if im lucky. lowering HP goal to about 400 as well, more easily done, anyone know if stock rotating assembly will handle that? i would imagine so but don't wanna throw a rod or snap a wrist pin cuz i overlooked it, any and all opinions are always well appreciated!