build sheet/prices, forgetting anything?
 

so ive started compiling a build sheet for my supra next year and prices of the parts, advice on any cheaper prices found for anyones build/better parts or what doesn't really work, only things i can think of i haven't decided on is intercooler piping, a piggyback system, if i will need one even, and wideband o2 sensor. opinions/suggestions on any part of this would be highly appreciated as always, listed also are where i located the parts at

engine parts store
engine rebuild kit-499.95
ebay
turbo header~175
jdm 50mm external wastegate-90
titan motorsports
brian crower stage 2 cams 264/264-706.88
ARP head studs-128.99
ferrea valve package(1mm oversized valves)-1497.76
adjustable cam gears-150 each
550cc RC engineering inj-535
clips for injectors-48
walbro fuel pump-150
weldon FPR-225
koyo radiator-350
electric fan upgrade-320
tein flex coilovers-1611
apexi avc-r EBC-475
hks type o turbo timer-95
wiring harness for timer-15
fidanza alum flywheel-456.56
suprastore.com
SPEC stage 5 clutch-609.99
aluminum 1 piece driveshaft-369.99
ultimate r154 build kit-595.99
greddy timing belt-160
high output alt.-165
lexus afm-250
stainless steel intercooler plate-95
gates radiator hose kit-69.99
goodridge braided brake lines-119
hks twin power ignition-415
greddy top speed eliminator-76.25
suprasport.com
quick/sport shifter v3-300
LIPP FFIM-1100
enjuku racing
brian crower pro series connecting rods-1052.99
andysautosport
rays/volk gts-18x10+37-1540(rear)
"-18x7.5+37-1440(front)
turboneticsinc
custom t4 turbo with 60 series compressor, ceramic ball bearing F1-62 turbine wheel, .68 turbine housing A/R-1299
treadstrongperformance
tr12 4.5in thick IC-355

total so far-16439.58


weak points considered-rear end and half shafts, any idea of power they can handle? looking to put 500+ to the ground, will block handle this? looking to push approximately 12-13 daily and around 20 at the track, attempting not to bore or stroke the engine, boring is still a possibility but would like to not stroke it, anything else ive forgotten/overlooked at a glance?

damn. thats a build sheet. keep updating and add some pics as you go. i wanna see this thing come together.:offwall:

You can come check it out during the build, will start next year around this time of year, will post pics of parts and tear down of it all as well, still more sure exactly where I'm doin the build at honestly, but will do, more updates tonight possibly

might have to do that. if i get the truck done ill drive that out and we can swap oogling haha. good luck man, ill keep plugged in on this

your gonna spend 250 on a lex afm? dude check your junk yards.
also if your going to be upgrading that much stuff grab a wideband and a safc neo.

Dude, just buy a mk4. JK that is gonna be one expensive beast.
As long as the diff and shafts are in good condition and up to par on maintenance, i don't think they'll be the weak points. I'd put money on the rear suspension failing first.
Many 7M's are putting more than that down without the block causing problems. Search for their build threads to see, through their experience, the weakest parts of the engine and what to reinforce.
Make sure the head gasket and tuning is done by a rocket surgeon. That's a good amount of boost, you don't want all that money blowin up.
lol ... stroke it.
Good luck with the build, and most important, post progress pics.

personally id bag the safc neo idea and just do full standalone. thats alot of mods to rely on a piggyback. i think most of his prices are max prices or for new units. so a rebuilt lexus afm would be a good deal at 250, not that hed need a new one, but its piece of mind, plus the shiny factor!

other than that, yea, its a hell of alot of money, but it will be an animal. i like mk4's just as much as anyone, but i like seeing someone take a platform that is described as "problematic" and an "underdog" and turning it into a fire breathing, corvette eating, honda shi**ing menace.

so i say go for it. if you get some pics rolling for the start, i will definitely take a trip out to see it in person.

shit yea. but keep the wideband. perhaps get a maftpro. but yea full standalone is fine..
nothing wrong with a safc. If you can do proper tuning. I run one and have good results.

goin into storage for a year
 

the supra is goin into storage for a year while im deployed, here are some pix of it where its gonna be sittin at, yes the engine bay is a mess but it has come a far way from when i first got it, lol, but this is where its gonna sit for a while, next time it comes out is when it goes to where its gonna be built at, oh i can't wait :) lol

"lol ... stroke it."

it would be nice, but the only kit ive found so far was like 2500, then would have to get the machine work done or whatever for the oil squirters, the block is gonna atleast get rehoned and the deck machined, but im trying to keep costs down as much as possible on machine work, have to start looking around for machine shops that can do that kind of stuff around here, 87hilux, is there any around you? my friend looked all around when he rebuilt the motor in his gsx and couldn't find any, ended up just gasket matching his ports, need to get more than that done with the oversized valves.

edit:just looked at stroker kit from import performance parts and there kit alone increased the 7MGTE to 320 HP and 315 TQ with the kit alone, and comes with H beam rods, pistons, rod and main bearings, pins and rings....this would eliminate the rods i was gonna get, making the price increase around 1500 or so, that might possibly happen come to think of it, and yes its gonna be tuned on a dyno, just have to figure out what standalone system to use, will look at the one recomended

a true stand alone would be the best. But you can always look at the maft-pro. good good data on those laying all over man.
best of luck.

and by stroke it, Im assuming you were referring to your stoker kit.

Yea, when I first looked at the kit I didnt realize what all it came with but after looking at it again I realized that it isnt as badly priced as I thought it was

around here, the guys i use for the actual machine work (bore, hone, decking, surfacing and cleaning etc....) is S&J. they arent toyota specific, so dont have them do a valve job unless they can walk you through their process.

anyway, they did a great job on my block and surfacing the head. the porting and polishing i did myself. i dont know about any shops in the area that do that kind of work, and it wouldnt be cheap if they were around here.

update on parts list....1mm oversize valve package isn't gonna happen...less machinework and saves me 1500 for minimal gains, also not buying rebuild kit cuz im getting the major stuff from it anyway, so just getting a gasket kit, total is now somewhere around 14500, saving program has started

sounds like a good way to save a few bux. if you were gonna do a 5 angle valve job, pas on it. the gains are minimal unless you run a full on race motor that gets redone every few races.

i was gonna say, if you go full standalone on the EMS, forgoe the HKS twin power as well. get some CDI coils and run them with the CPS and full standalone.

i normally steer people away from aluminum flywheels, but it depends on the kind of driving you plan on doing, and the power goals you have in mind. and i dont recall ever getting those nailed down...

im lookin at it being streetable, but also want to run it at the track and possibly drift in it as well, not going to learn in it since im putting so much into it but want to be able to goof off every now and then with it when i want to, so i figured aluminum flywheel would be nice to reduce rotational mass

id prolly pass on the flywheel. if youre drifting at all the flywheel is good for keeping rotating mass inertia up, so when you shift youre motor will hold its revs better instead of being able to bleed off rpms quicker. and you wont really notice a difference on the street with the rest of your build. a stock resurfaced and balanced flywheel would be a better choice in my opinion.

just my 2 cents!

thats what im asking for is peoples 2 cents! its always nice to hear suggestions of what ppl think will help this build and what may not be really necessary and i take all of that into consideration through this process, this is the first car i will be really building up to such an extent. while i know how to make power and torque, ive never really dealt with turbo except military vehicles and they don't let us upgrade, so this is a learning process for me, i appreciate all the help very much!

Cant wait to see the finished project. Hit me up when its done or whenever and we will cruise around tacoma or even kent. Waiting to get a title for a shell I just bought and getting my turbo rebuilt/upgraded.

conga-the build is a while away, im in afghanistan right now but will definately let you know when it gets done, trying to figure out somewhere i can do the build at right now is my biggest thing really, did some more work on the parts list and have drastically reduced to a little under 11000 not including body, paint, FMS, tires, any sensors needing replaced, machine work, wideband and gauges so i know price is goin to go up by atleast 2500 if im lucky. lowering HP goal to about 400 as well, more easily done, anyone know if stock rotating assembly will handle that? i would imagine so but don't wanna throw a rod or snap a wrist pin cuz i overlooked it, any and all opinions are always well appreciated!

a thought/favor
 

So after doing some research on dress up parts for the supra, I have found an amazing piece from AZP and wanted to ask anyone a favor since I don't have very good photo-editing software. I am looking to get their billet cam covers with the centerpiece( http://arizonaperformance.com/parts_...590_resize.JPG )(sexy as hell, I know) I also want to add my own flavor to the piece to make it my own. I want to have the supra logo from the MKIV machined onto it and filled in red. Also am going to have MKIII in one of the corners. Could anyone possibly do a photoshop of what this would look like, with just the supra logo? Thanks in advance if anyone does it!

Edit: Parts currently on in/on order: hks turbo timer w/ harness, short throw shifter, walbro 255LPH fuel pump. Getting a nice discount from Titanmotorsports for placing a big order, waiting to save up the money for that then making the big purchase, then just rims, coilovers, FFIM and odds, ends and dress up!

if i had a good photoshop program, id be able to do it in a snap. unfortunately i dont.

those are pretty sick covers tho, look a lot more like 1jz/2jz sets. spendy lookin tho!

yea they are, lol, its about 1100 for the whole set up, it moves your coil packs to between the cam covers though, making it look alot cleaner than stock, to me its pretty much worth it, lol, i want the engine bay to be as clean as possible but not shave it and this will do wonders for that. plus it makes an amazing centerpiece for compartment as well.