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Old 06-05-2011, 01:02 AM   #11
87hilux7mge
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it should be under the kick panel, down by your feet. i wouldnt think youd have to pull the dash to get to it.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87hilux7mge View Post
if u unclip anything on the harness u should always tag both ends so you know where they went.

if they can only reach one injector (usually this is how the harnesses work on these motors, not guaranteed) then i would assume thats how they attach.

ive never seen different color injector clips on these motors, ive only seen green and yellow.
A few of the injector wires (#1 and #2 for example will reach either injector. The injector clips (the wire harness side connectors) typically alternate white / brown / white / brown and so on. The first is white, IIRC, double check in the TEWD by looking at the wire colors running to the two clips.

The injector CAPS are what you're thinking of... pre89 N/A yellow top (low impedance injectors); 89+ N/A green top (high impedance; all years 7M-GTE black (low impedance).


90% of the time the problem with a rebuild not starting is timing related; 7% it's a missed ground; the last 3% varies.
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:20 PM   #13
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I'm pretty sure I have all the grounds. The one on the exhaust side towards the back of the head, the coil pack ground, and the huge one under the intake.
And the timing issue, I put the crank tdc and marked my cams and cps and put them back in the same.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:03 PM   #14
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If you are absolutely sure that the timing is correct (I would double check it, especially the cps, which is easy to kcuf up if you have never done it before) and the everything is grounded sufficiently, move on.
Next I would check the fuel pressure (using a gauge!) before checking any of the related wiring or relays or whatever. The car will NOT start if the pressure is below what is required even if you can hear the pump running. If the pressure at the rail is good, this is not the problem, move on. Do you have good (or any) spark...........
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
A few of the injector wires (#1 and #2 for example will reach either injector. The injector clips (the wire harness side connectors) typically alternate white / brown / white / brown and so on. The first is white, IIRC, double check in the TEWD by looking at the wire colors running to the two clips.

The injector CAPS are what you're thinking of... pre89 N/A yellow top (low impedance injectors); 89+ N/A green top (high impedance; all years 7M-GTE black (low impedance).


90% of the time the problem with a rebuild not starting is timing related; 7% it's a missed ground; the last 3% varies.

true, just went and looked at my buddies. never noticed the clip colors were different colors. i think im going color blind haha, they looked the same color as the injectors when i took both my motors apart
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:13 AM   #16
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Replacement clips were only available in white, if I recall correctly.
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:08 AM   #17
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so i worked on it a little more tonight. it will crank just fine, getting fuel because you can start to smell it (kinda like partially burnt) coming from the exhaust. checked the timing again and set it just to be positive. when cranking it it will spit and sputter a tad bit every now and again. did some more checking and it could possibly be spark problem. put a spark tester on it and while cranking it only received one or two weak sparks on plug #1. but when you look at the plugs you can see a little black on them where they have been firing. so what would be a good start for the findings of the problem??
and also i just put new NGK Iridium plugs in it and a buddy of mine told me the car might not run with these plugs.....could this be true? i didnt think it could be since the parts store found them under my car in the computer and ordered them that way.
and also..crank sensor?? is there one? and where? couldnt this be a problem to not starting
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:47 AM   #18
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sounds like your coil is bad. it could be the plugs, there are certain double platinum plugs that wont work with newer toyota motors (my dads 98 2.7 taco wont run double platinums) as well as a few other motor/plug combos that dont work. so thats might be the problem.

the best plugs for these cars are the stock NGK's as far as ive read, or coppers. they dont last as long, but they provide the best spark for the buck and with regular maintenance youd never have a problem.

check your coil/pack tho and see if its delivering proper voltage and do a resistance test.

weak spark is a huge problem that gets mis-diagnosed alot.
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:53 AM   #19
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There's nothing wrong with Iridiums but there's no significant benefit to them over the stock platinums.
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:53 PM   #20
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No crank sensor, it is in the cps. I like autolite copper spark plugs cuz I'm cheap and don't mind changing them often.
If the coil(s) are too weak to even start the engine, you will likely have gasoline on the spark plugs. Easy enough to check. It doesn't right away mean the coil(s) are bad. The 7MGTE coils are case grounded to the bracket that holds them to the engine. Be sure there is no corrosion or paint between the coils and the bracket. Then be sure the ground wire from the bracket to the head is in good condition. It seems coincidental that 3 coil packs crap out at the same time. Check the harness to them as well. If wiring and grounds are good, start testing the coils.

First, I would try to spray some starting fluid (not too much) into the intake (NOT THE AFM) and try to start it. If it starts right up you have fuel system issues. It's not classy, but it knocks out a bunch of diagnostics quickly. Be careful if you try this, ether is nasty stuff.
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