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Old 04-27-2011, 03:46 AM   #1
btwilson86
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Have you even talked to a driveshaft company? Have you confirmed that the front half of your MKII driveshaft with the rear half of your MKIII driveshaft won't work?

What junkyards have you tried? It's a bit of a drive, but the Pick a Part in Chula Vista has always had a couple of 5 spd MKIII's when I've gone there, and they charge $35 (plus $5 core) for 2-piece driveshafts.


Take the neutral switch off of the transmission. Disconnect the switch (and it's ~2' worth of wiring) from the engine wiring harness. Place the switch in a box. Tape the box up. Mail it to Hong Kong. You don't need it. Place your jumper wire in the engine wiring harness connector that your neutral switch USED TO connect to.
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:07 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post


Take the neutral switch off of the transmission. Disconnect the switch (and it's ~2' worth of wiring) from the engine wiring harness. Place the switch in a box. Tape the box up. Mail it to Hong Kong. You don't need it. Place your jumper wire in the engine wiring harness connector that your neutral switch USED TO connect to.
hahaha thank you, ima make a kill switch...
as for the drive shaft i got, i need to modify the back flange as it doesnt bolt directly to the end peice or floor board... after that im back on the dam road...
also my mechanic said tht i can go to ace hardware and buy londer bolts for the bellhousing instead of spending more money for (sturdier more "reliable" and expensive bellhousing bolts) do you think thats ok?
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:19 AM   #3
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should work
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:54 AM   #4
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should work
thats what i said said, but when people say should there not so confident about it..
i just think that all bolts are heat treated so that wont be a problem there, the only thing is that its not a high grade of metall..
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:29 PM   #5
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ok, heres a better answer. if you go to a hardware store to get bellhousing bolts, just make sure to get grade 8. no they wont be cheap, but they wont break either. you will strip out any threads long before they could break.

more reassuring?
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:05 AM   #6
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ok, heres a better answer. if you go to a hardware store to get bellhousing bolts, just make sure to get grade 8. no they wont be cheap, but they wont break either. you will strip out any threads long before they could break.

more reassuring?
I didn't meen it to be rude or anything, I did get grade 8 becuz I knew it needed to be strong..
I'm getting my drive shaft cut and welded tomorrow, hopefully soon I can get it on the road, I just gotta get the top bellhousing bolts on and tightened(proally a dumb question, but do they really need to be on there?) haha Gotta get the driveshaft on the car and jump those wires!

I also got the tranny rebuilt, I'm going to put 40w oil in there for quite awhile, atleast 6 months..but how much do I put in of that? 2.5 quarts? Or is it more? And when should I actually put in 70 weight oil in? Like it's originally called for.. Thanks :P
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:32 PM   #7
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no offense taken, just wanted to get my point across lol.

i wouldnt run a lightweight oil then switch to a higher weight. just run the standard and then change it out for fresh oil after about 5k miles. or if your rebuilder had a break-in plan to follow, go with that.
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