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Old 04-25-2011, 07:37 AM   #31
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can you guys help me?......
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:29 AM   #32
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the help has been posted already. the switch wires that need to be jumped are on the car, part of the wiring harness itself. driveshaft, check the local pick n pull yards, or you may have to pay some coin to have one made. usually 80-100 bux to have one shortened and balanced by a machinist.
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:50 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87hilux7mge View Post
the help has been posted already. the switch wires that need to be jumped are on the car, part of the wiring harness itself. driveshaft, check the local pick n pull yards, or you may have to pay some coin to have one made. usually 80-100 bux to have one shortened and balanced by a machinist.
except it needs to be longer, the automagic, is longer than the w58, so the drive shaft for a auto is shorter. the dshaft for the w58 is longer.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:37 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianBak'inSupra View Post
except it needs to be longer, the automagic, is longer than the w58, so the drive shaft for a auto is shorter. the dshaft for the w58 is longer.
thanks canadian, so with that info, it will have to be longer. same case then, go to the pick n pull, and find a long driveshafter from a pickup, preferably a full size pickup, with a diesel and in the 90s if you can find it.

then you can get a nice aluminum shaft thats stronger than stock and lighter, freeing up a couple hp. and it wont rust to hell. plus, most machinist rates are cheaper when dealing with aluminum, at least around here.

my DS for my camaro cost me 95 bux to have shortened, welded and balanced, it was from a 99 f350 superduty, 3.5 inch aluminum. weighed like 6 lbs or so, i cant remember but it was waaaay lighter than the stock steel one.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:12 AM   #35
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thank you for that.. i might do that to the drive shaft..
but my question for the switch is, do i even need to take the nuetral switch off the automagic or can i just jump the wires on the harness and do nothing at all with the switch???
thats what i really needed to know and beg for help... the driveshaft maybe ok.
my transmission isnt sitting right so when i get it right it may acually workk
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:47 AM   #36
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i would say you can take the switch out and jump the wires themselves. or leave the switch in and jump them. as long as they are jumped.
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87hilux7mge View Post
i would say you can take the switch out and jump the wires themselves. or leave the switch in and jump them. as long as they are jumped.
see thats what confuses me...
im not jumping the wires on the switch, or am i on the car?
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Old 04-26-2011, 10:21 PM   #38
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and guys im still looking for the driveshaft, i ONLY have like 65$ left,
is there any driveshafts that are link up?
like an automagic cressida? manual CRessida, and so what year?
things like that
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:46 AM   #39
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Have you even talked to a driveshaft company? Have you confirmed that the front half of your MKII driveshaft with the rear half of your MKIII driveshaft won't work?

What junkyards have you tried? It's a bit of a drive, but the Pick a Part in Chula Vista has always had a couple of 5 spd MKIII's when I've gone there, and they charge $35 (plus $5 core) for 2-piece driveshafts.


Take the neutral switch off of the transmission. Disconnect the switch (and it's ~2' worth of wiring) from the engine wiring harness. Place the switch in a box. Tape the box up. Mail it to Hong Kong. You don't need it. Place your jumper wire in the engine wiring harness connector that your neutral switch USED TO connect to.
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:07 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post


Take the neutral switch off of the transmission. Disconnect the switch (and it's ~2' worth of wiring) from the engine wiring harness. Place the switch in a box. Tape the box up. Mail it to Hong Kong. You don't need it. Place your jumper wire in the engine wiring harness connector that your neutral switch USED TO connect to.
hahaha thank you, ima make a kill switch...
as for the drive shaft i got, i need to modify the back flange as it doesnt bolt directly to the end peice or floor board... after that im back on the dam road...
also my mechanic said tht i can go to ace hardware and buy londer bolts for the bellhousing instead of spending more money for (sturdier more "reliable" and expensive bellhousing bolts) do you think thats ok?
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