should work

thats what i said said, but when people say should there not so confident about it..
i just think that all bolts are heat treated so that wont be a problem there, the only thing is that its not a high grade of metall..

ok, heres a better answer. if you go to a hardware store to get bellhousing bolts, just make sure to get grade 8. no they wont be cheap, but they wont break either. you will strip out any threads long before they could break.

more reassuring? :bigthumb:

I didn't meen it to be rude or anything, I did get grade 8 becuz I knew it needed to be strong..
I'm getting my drive shaft cut and welded tomorrow, hopefully soon I can get it on the road, I just gotta get the top bellhousing bolts on and tightened(proally a dumb question, but do they really need to be on there?) haha Gotta get the driveshaft on the car and jump those wires!

I also got the tranny rebuilt, I'm going to put 40w oil in there for quite awhile, atleast 6 months..but how much do I put in of that? 2.5 quarts? Or is it more? And when should I actually put in 70 weight oil in? Like it's originally called for.. Thanks :P

no offense taken, just wanted to get my point across lol.

i wouldnt run a lightweight oil then switch to a higher weight. just run the standard and then change it out for fresh oil after about 5k miles. or if your rebuilder had a break-in plan to follow, go with that.

he didnt really have a break in plan.. im gonna go by what the manual says..
to jump the switch, i just cut the wires stripp them and put them together?

hmm, have to read up on that part in my haynes. never had a manual suggest different weight oils and change intervals like that. normally since theres no combustion cycle and deposits to soak into the oil, it doesnt need changing. i guess due to initial wear you could have a small amount of metal particulate, but not enough to cause a problem the magnetic drain plug cant contain. but whatever the manual says

as for the wires, yep that sounds right. makes a constant circtuit so the car thinks its in neutral and will idle when off throttle or while sitting.

i went to kragens today to check the prices on oil, they ran my car into the computer and said it was 70w
is this true? i would assume so but just double checking...

EDIT: i checked TEWD and i have no clue what wires to jump?? HELP i remember BTWILSON said it was blue and black or something... idk exactly..

80w90, i prefer either Valvoline full synthetic 75w90 gear oil or Royal Purple gear oil.

GL-4 or GL-5 rated is recommended.

these lines

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo4-1.jpg

connect to these hoses

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo-10.jpg

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/photo2-7.jpg

i dont need these lines like BTWILSON said but if i disconnect them, wouldnt coolant leak out of them continuously?
car running or not?