The bellhousing bolts barelymake it out of the bellhousing, maybe 4 or 5 threads..so idk

Where is the neutral start switch?! Lol,
and the starter, what do I hook up, you said not to forget to connect ???(sorry I'm doing this from my iPhone)

and what about my trans mount? Is that okay?

ok, well id be wary of that transmission mount, but i cant tell if you have a full crossmember or just an ear that bolts to a tranny ear. if thats the case, id be careful. that ear could break under load and be a real mess. get a proper mount front a junk yard or see about having one made.

the bellhousing/starter bolts look right, but they are different lengths. so its a good idea to keep them in order...as that hasnt been done, best thing to assume is the starter bolts will be longer cuz they have to go thru the bellhousing and the starter, and should have a nut on the back side. starter only fits one way too.

do you have a repair manual? u need to get one and read thru some of these sections, or read the tsrm thats posted on this site.

i was told that the auto matic transmission mount worked, unless my trans isnt sitting right..
ima pick up a new set of bellhousing bolts just to be safe...

heres a pic of the shifter part\
http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...um/photo-9.jpg
i know this is sitting right, well its has to be but my worry is this

i was told that when i put this tranny in, i would have to cut out a piece of my car to shift into 2, 4 and reverse.. that being said i was also told that the automatic mount would work... idk, forsure... if the shifter is seated properly then i have to get the manual trans mount.. so is this proper or not?

well the shifter looks to be in the proper spot. install the shifter and row through the gears, that will tell you if you need to modify the trans tunnel.

the mount, like i said, i cant see clearly, and last time i was under a 7m powered car, i did it all by feel.

id make sure you have a pretty decent mount, cuz one bolt to an ear tab on the tranny doesnt seem like enough.

looks like im gonna go and get a new mount lol,
i dont wanna take any chances, my other things i need is the wiring for the neutral start switch? anyone? lol what to do there? or where its even at?

and the other, how do i bleed my clutch??

bleeding the clutch is fairly pain free. first fill the reservoir with fluid, then (this must be done with a buddy) pump the clutch 2-3 times and hold the peddle down. have someone or urself, whoevers under the car, open the bleeder nipple just for a second then quickly close. u want to have the fluid pressurized out of the line, but not completely lose pressure, otherwise you can suck air back into the line. also, dont take pressure off the peddle while the nipple is open, or air will go back in. do this several times, keepin the reservoir topped off, until you have no more air bubbles coming out of the bleeder nipple.

its takes a lil finesse, but its a fairly simple operation once you do it some.

ur on ur own with the switch unfortunately :/ i dont deal with auto conversions so i wouldnt know lol.

haha i know somebody in here knows where the switch is at and how to bypass it,
lol
i think there just annoyed with the question...
soo anyone else?

and yeah i need to get the bellhousing bolts, the right drive shaft cuz apparently mines from an mk2, and the right trans mount first before i start with the clutch, i really messed up with the driveshaft -.-
dayummm, car was gonna be running soon too.

The neutral start switch itself is on the automatic transmission on the passenger side. It is the big metal box with a bunch of wires running to it.

You can leave it plugged in with it set in "park" or "neutral" and secure it somewhere (the easy fix, IMO the least desirable)

You can remove the switch and place a jumper wire in the wiring harness electrical connector. I believe you just have to place a jumper between the 2 large wires (still an easy fix, probably the most common method)

You can remove the switch and run an extension from the harness to a clutch safety switch. I don't know if the factory 5 spd switch will work or not, but you would just need an on/off switch that you can attach to the clutch pedal. That way when you press the clutch, you create the "jumper" as mentioned above. The important (and safe) consideration is that when you let go of the clutch, you wouldn't be able to start the car (nobody accidentally starting in gear)

Oh, and I don't know if anyone posted about them yet; the 2 metal lines that used to connect to the automatic transmission, you can get rid of them. They connect to the radiator (they were the cooling lines for the transmission). Be careful when removing them, it's likely that there is still a bit of ATF in the lines and that stuff's real nasty if it gets on clothes or anything

good example of why you should bag your bolts with labels...

the washers should be for trans mount, to chassis.

the safty switch is located on the shifter of your auto, simply just disconnect it from the auto and plug it into your harness, and move it to the park position. i usually just cram it up with the clutch master cylinder.

and dam... if you got that tranny on without pulling the engine I AM impressed, because you have just reached a level of patience i will never get.

it is probly faster to pull the engine though, renting a cherry picker is not much, probly 30 bucks a day.