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Old 03-17-2011, 02:11 AM   #11
El_supracabra
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Yes it is a 7mge. OF COURSE I used assembly lube. Lol

I was wondering if maybe the flywheel was too thick or something (perhaps causing the pressure plate not to release the clutch? Idk)

I'm not home right this minute, but I will def try to turn the motor "backwards" by hand a little to "dislodge" or realign whatever is "jamming". I think my clutch cylinder may need to be bled. Weird considering I didnt disconnect any hydraulic clutch lines. I did notice my resevoir was almost empty.... But that still wouldn't cause the thing to lock up that tight. I'm wondering if maybe I should loosen the bellhousing bolts a little to see if that helps loosen things up? Or maybe put it in gear and try to turn the driveshaft?

Anyways thanks a lot guys. Keep the suggestions coming, and I will def let you know what I find!
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86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL!

CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge

DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine

I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:19 AM   #12
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Oh and yes I did use a new clutch it was Autozone brand, I used to work there and I've never seen one of there clutches come back. So I figured it was as good as any. The only prob I had was that the bolt holes in the pressure plate didn't line up with the boltholes in the new AM flywheel. I just blamed it on craptastic aftermarket compatibility and drilled new holes in the PXplate. Seemed to bolt up great after that.
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86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL!

CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge

DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine

I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:27 AM   #13
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Start with the easy stuff first. Pull the other two plugs and check in the cylinders for fuel (or anti freeze, but that's un likely), then try rotating engine with by rachet, re check timing, recheck dist is installed properly. Double check plug wire routing. then if no more ideas pull trans. But I doubt anything is goin on in there. Which is quite the job with engine in!
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:12 AM   #14
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Ok I was about to write a hateful email to CBhaus (regarding the flywheel because I had to drill holes in the pressure plate in order for it to bolt up and i was suspecting that it was causing my "lock up" problems)...

....when i noticed that i had ordered the flywheel for *TURBO ONLY*!!! WTF how did i miss the HUGE ASTERISKS that said *TURBO ONLY* ......sigh....well, i think i found the problem guys.....strangely, they LOOKED identical! AND they have the same number of teeth.

So what is the difference???? Do you guys think this is DEF the prob?
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86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL!

CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge

DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine

I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:02 AM   #15
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I was pretty sure that the turbo flywheel is a larger diameter, by about an inch. I'm not 100% sure, but if thats the case then the flywheel may be jammed against the bellhousing on your w58.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:08 PM   #16
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Idk this isn't really sitting right with me for some reason. When i got the flywheel I laid it on top of the old flywheel and checked to see if it had the same number of teeth. It was the SAME size and everything. But I crawled under the car today and loosened the bellhousing bolts and I got the engine to turn over (by ratchet) about 1/8-1/4". It wasn't very much but it was more than before.

Can anybody confirm the differences in the W58 and R154 flywheels?

Either way, I'm dropping the tranny next week so I will def be getting to the bottom of this! I'll keep you posted.
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86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL!

CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge

DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine

I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:22 AM   #17
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I can't find reliable sources to confirm this, but what I've read on some other forums and sites is this:

7MGE: 225mm Overall Diameter
7MGTE: 240mm Overall Diameter
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:54 PM   #18
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Default 7mge W58 FLYWHEEL vs 7mgte R154 FLYWHEEL

THEY ARE EXACTLY THE SAME IN DIAMETER. HOWEVER, THE 7MGTE/R154 FLYWHEEL IS ABOUT 3/8" THICKER THAN THE ONE FOR THE 7MGE//W58!!!!

This is absolutely critical! what happened: I accidentally ordered a flywheel for a Turbo supra. (r154 trans) it was so thick that it positioned the pressure plate nearly 1/2" further towards the rear of the bellhousing. once the bellhousing bolts are tightened down, it binds the pressure plate into the bellhousing and the whole thing locks up tight! VERY VERY IMPORTANT to know!!!

Every thing else is the same, number of teeth, overall diameter, bolt pattern, inside whole diameter. The ONLY other thing that MIGHT be different, is the PATTERN of threaded holes for the PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. i had to ream the pressure plate holes in order for them to line up with the threaded holes in the flywheel. this was my first clue that this was the incorrect flywheel. I made the mistake of thinking "its just the usual aftermarket compatibility".

On that note; I have a CHROME-MOLY lightweight flywheel for a turbo supra for sale now. LOL its never been used just bolted up. Ill take $150 firm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBHau...Q5fAccessories
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86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL!

CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge

DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine

I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:06 PM   #19
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The flywheels are different in diameter. Been a while since I've had them side by side so I can't say how much.

If I recall correctly, the amount you shaved to bring it to 10.5:1 puts the engine very close to now being an "Interference" engine. If the mechanical timing was off by enough you may have hit the valves.
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:27 PM   #20
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I dropped the tranny last night, there were gouges in the inside of the bellhousing and scratches on the high points of the pressure plate.

I laid the "turbo only" flywheel on top of my OEM non-turbo flywheel and they were EXACTLY the same diameter and no of teeth.

when i laid them side by side the "turbo only" flywheel was about 3/8 to a 1/2" thicker than the OEM non turbo. this was the obvious problem. I had my OEM flywheel resurfaced and i will be putting it back on today. all things permitting.
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86.5 Supra NA: milled head .020, decked block .007, .5mm+ pistons, port & polished intake manifold and cyl head,OBX header, 3-angle, cold air intake, Cometic MLS HG. ALL NATURAL!

CHEVROLET- Cracked Heads, Every Valve Rattles, Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- Flipped Over, Rebuilt Dodge

DODGE- Dirty Old Dust Gathering Engine

I'd rather drive a Toyota, than push a ford.
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