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#1 | |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Always start with checking codes. Most of the diagnostic errors which set codes in the memory don't cause the check engine light to some on... your entire issue could be detailed and waiting for you to stop wasting time and just read.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx Quote:
More reading: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=106 Did you calibrate the TPS when you put everything back together? Is the A/C system intact?
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#2 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 526
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Sound like the TPS needs to be calibrated. Check codes if u have code 51 the tps needs calibration.
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 65
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so finally got a second to check the codes....and i got none. it blinks quickly non stop. but still runs like its lacking power. now what smart people??? oh and yes the idle valve makes ticka ticka ticka when i shut it off.
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88 targa. H&R springs, koni adustable shocks, 18" wheels, d&s rotors, goodrich brake lines, 7mgte in progress... ![]() |
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#4 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Well, the idle adjustment (quite obviously) has just masked one of the symptoms of a greater problem. Don't know why you'd feel it was the problem as (I assume) you didn't touch it prior to now.
Time to start with the usual things. First, reset whichever screw you adjusted as per the TSRM... if it's not shown in the TSRM (which is because not even Toyota certified techs are supposed to dick with it) then set it back how you found it; where it was back when everything was running fine. Then, physically inspect the ISCV, just because the stepper motor is trying to move doesn't mean there isn't debris in there keeping it open. Check the cam and crank timing and make sure the timing belt tension is equal on both sides... See the FAQ for a LOT of info on adjusting and setting both mechanical and electronic timing, I'm not going to recap all of it. Have you inspected all of the intake and PCV piping for cracks? Have you verified all of the vacuum hoses are correct? I don't suppose you marked the CPS before you pulled it so you could at least reinstall it where it was previously (should put it at 10?)? This sounds most like an air problem; One tooth on the CPS will cause a minor bog but won't cause the idle jump a mile. You didn't try to clean the KVAFM (that's the air flow meter), did you? When after having the head tested and reinstalling the cams did you verify the cam/shim clearances? This would cause bogging but not a high idle. When you reinstalled the cam gears did you use the center holes on both cam and gear for the dowel pins?
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