I'm not going to tell you what you should or shouldn't do.... that's a matter of preference.

The wiring is minimal, I'll have to go over the diagrams but from what I recall you simply wire the NSW wiring to the clutch switch and I think you may have to change one wire at the circuit opening relay or the EFI main relay.

Pulling the transmission without a pit or lift SUCKS. You'll want a transmission jack and the car up at least 2' all the way around. Plan on loosening the motor mounts disconnecting some of the stuff running to the engine so you can tip it for easier access to the bolts at the top of the bell housing.

yeah i figured, well im eventually gonna swap it,
as for right now, i put jb weld on it and hopefully itll hold.. till i get the time to do the swap

Any chance of some better pictures of the damage that needs to be repaired? There's probably a couple MUCH better fixes available. Id the hole in the pan itself?

i dont have a camera and the first gen iphone has a peice o sh** camera..

i put jb weld on it.. and let it dry overnight.. today i put tranny fluid in and jump the car,
no tranny fluid spraying! the real test is tomorrow when i drive it and let the tranny heat up a bit to see if it blows the weld!:uh:

good so far,
one quick question.. i was talking to #btwilson86 when i bought a tranny from him.
i asked about what clutch kit to get.. oem or like a stage 1 or 2
he said oem and i agree since its cheaper, but what do you guys think?

If it's accessible enough to get JB weld on it couldn't you get someone to weld it? Is the hole in the pan or the housing? Aluminum or steel?

The stock clutch will get you pretty far, for mild builds a new OEM (not OEM spec generic crap though) will hold up fine. If you want to step things up from there a bit a higher load pressure plate will help a lot. In a W58 I wouldn't bother with anything more.

The reason I jb welded it was becuz I didn't want to take the tranny out, I drove it today abd the tranny still leaked so it's coming out to get fixed soon..I want it manual sooo I'm swapping it, I don't know what clutch kit to get, and where to find the fly wheel bolts...
Can you test a transmission? To see if it's usable?

All you can do without pulling it is to test for play at the shifter and at the input and output shafts, both axial and radial... you'll need a special gauge for this. Also making sure it rotates in an all gears and inspect the transmission fluid.... Best bet is to tear it down though.

Just get the fasteners from Toyota, they're cheap enough.

If your power goals are under 350-400 (which with a W58 they better be) I'd just buy a stock clutch disc, get the flywheel resurfaced (an absolute MUST) or get a lightweight flywheel, and a higher pressure pressure plate from somewhere like HPF.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...31-84046.html\

this is the one i found..
it doesnt come with the flywheel.

i need the fly wheel and clutch fork..

where do i get all this in a kit?
i only have 450 and i still need the drive shaft, hard lines and soft lines, and shift linkage? all this aside of the clutch kit
i need this car up and rolling quickkkkkkk,

parts i already have:
w58
clutch master
slave cylinder

needed:
drive shaft
hard and soft lines
clutch kit,
flywheel
clutch fork
shift linkage?
flywheel bolts
and the shifter
-.-

another one...
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwidmIbxWjk

Clutch kits will rarely include the flywheel and fork. Those will have to be purchased separately. There is no external shift linkage, so cross that off your list. Once you get a shifter, and the bushing that goes in there (from Toyota, it's cheap), that's done. As cre said, get the fasteners from Toyota. Everything else you have on the list can be removed from a parts car or a junkyard car, shouldn't really cost much either.