Will my ECU send out the right error codes?

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Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

Now this has got my wheels turning as to why someone would do this....

Oh boy.... this opens up for a VERY long discussion... I'll try to keep this short as I don't have all the time in the world (just most of it, unfortunately).

Why? Generally because it's cheap, easier than swapping everything, works (sort of), and laziness.... oh and it's cheaper.

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

The GE Ecu won't have a fuel cut correct?

The term "fuel cut" doesn't actually refer to what people in the turbo world generally think... I'm not going to get into it though... just had to bitch.

No, the GE does not have such protection as there's really no way even a modded GE could take in ore air than its fuel maps allow for.

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

With this GE ecu wouldn't the BOV then be able to be vented to the atmosphere with out significant rich spot between shifts?

No, it'll still have the rich spots as the air was already metered. Unless the system is able to read how much air is actually in the system at the time of discharge you'll still have that over richness. It even happens in systems which people generally think are immune under extremely high boost situations (I'm referring to MAF blow through setups and S/D setups); The ECU can only react so fast and if there's 40psi of air in the plenum it won't be able to pull the signal for the extra 200cc/m of fuel fast enough.

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

But if the other questions above are both correct then that could be an alternative to the Lexus Afm.... and save mad tuning for the bov venting normally required on the gte ecu? And this should able to be achieved with a simple piggyback system right?

See above.... You can tune the existing GTE electronics for an atmosphere vented BOV with a good piggybck, so why on earth would you want to downgrade electronics?

Another problem with this is that the GE runs much more aggressive timing maps than you'd run on a forced induction engine (if you want it to last) so now you need to add a timing management solution... or pull 4+? from the base and kiss your low end performance goodbye (not that the GTE performs well on the bottom end, but fortunately it's not there for long).

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

Oh and I bet if u open the glove box area you will see where the previous owner had the fuel controller hooked up!

Oh, I doubt they bothered. As I said, you CAN run it, but it's a bad idea. Fortunately, Toyota designers are paranoid and run everything rich as hell in open loop mode. The GE tends to run at the upper limit of what's considered a safe AFR for a forced induction engine but I don't know about the maps when the airflow gets that high. Optimum safe AFR for a naturally aspirated engine is argued to be between 12.1:1 and 13.1:1; This is the max power at a safe mixture to keep temps down and prevent detonation. Optimum for the AVERAGE forced induction engine is argued to be between the high 9's and mid 11's. The GE tends to run the high 11's to low 12's.

You can run just about any 3 liter I6 on an EMS for any other 3 liter I6 as long as the fueling maps support it and the timing maps are close. I've seen 2JZ-GTE's run on 7M-GTE electronics and even stranger combinations... try a turbo charged BMW E36 running 2JZ-GTE electronics.




BUT, to put it simply: There is NO benefit to running GE electronics on a GTE.