I'm having trouble with the passenger side window. The whole time I've had the car, the pass. window would roll down but not up, (I have a 87' turbo by the way), and when I hooked the battery directly to the window motor it went up and down. If the switch goes out on the pass. side will that affect the driver side switch? Because it will usually go down when pressed from either switch but not up.

The passenger switch's circuit runs through the driver's side switch. It's not uncommon for carbon to buildup on the metal rocker contacts in the switch causing a disruption in the flow of current. You may disassemble the switch and lightly sand the contacts and see if that's the sum of the problem... this happens in the passenger side switch too, but if you can't operate it from the driver's side start with that switch.

We tried cleaning the contacts of the switches and that was not it , unfortunately. My car has been doing what that guy rj just posted;it has been starting really well since I got a new battery and some new terminals, but starting today it will not crank right away. It takes a few times of turning the key before it starts, and sometimes it starts 5 to 10 times in a row, but then that 6th or 11th try it will not crank. I'm starting to think its my infamous ECU. It is really frustrating not being able to rely on my car ya know.

Have you checked the battery voltage and tested the alternator? If the old battery took a crap and the only thing you've recently changed I'd be more suspicious of the charging system initially. Check the voltage at the three + supply terminals on the ECU while cranking. If the voltage is dropping below 11v you've got power supply issues... whether or not the ECU is bad, it's power requirements are not being met while cranking.

As for the window, have you taken a meter and followed the supply to see where the loss is?

I will try that next time I get a sec. I know I keep asking random questions;However, does anybody out there know exactly how many different types of bushings there are for a mk3 and what would be the best buy and if there is a whole set somewhere I can buy. And some tie rods for that matter too.

How many types? Two... polyurethane and the OEM butyl rubber. If you're looking for a smooth squeak free ride I recommend sticking with the OEM bushings. The "poly" bushings are not very forgiving and (even when frequently lubed) prone to creaking or squeaking. The poly bushings are a popular choice for people looking for a VERY ridgid and compliant ride. Do bear in mind that with OEM bushings and upgrades elsewhere in the suspension you can still have the compliance but more comfort on less ideal roads.
For a track only car though, poly is the only way to go.

The OEM bushings are probably available individually from a Toyota dealer or any n umber of online dealers of Toyota parts; I do not know if there is any aftermarket manufacturer. Poly bushings are available from most Supra specialized shops; I think horsepowerfreaks.com sells them in a complete kit or individually.... they should be able to get you the OEM type as well.

Thanks for all the help, I'm gonna need assistance in the future so... But I will be sure to post pictures of my supra as soon as I get her the way she deserves to be, which is gonna be by the end of this summer!

Hey, I need to know if this Momo steering wheel is really OEM and if it will fit my 87 mk3 without an adapter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...item3f0527e972http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...item3f0527e972

IIRC, TRD sold a momo for the JZA70 chassis... If that is accurate then no, it won't fit, not without some work. It would probably fit a 89" with little effort though. You would also have to figure out a way of replacing the cruise control controls.... If you're keeping the cruise control.

Is there any steering wheel you would recommend?