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Brake Light Nightmare
The lamp failure box has already been bypassed by the previous owner. All the lights work on the car except the stop lights. The taillights, turn signals, hazards, reverse lights, and the license plate lights also work. What to do?? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.
P.S. I might also need a copy of the wiring diagram, because every single one I get doesn't seem to help. |
Posted in the wrong forum... moved to the MKIII forum... I assume this is a MKIII.
Double check the previous owners work and test the brake switch. The brakes are on their own circuit and it is a VERY simple circuit. Here's Toyota's wiring diagram: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...x?S=Main&P=074 |
Thanks for the diagram it really helped. Yea sorry for posting in the wrong spot, kinda new so... I have more questions also.
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Eibach Lowering Springs:
Well I am thinking about just buying some Eibachs, but I do not know how hard it is to put these bad boys on. Do I need to just take them to a shop? Or is it something I could do on my own?
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Without any idea as to your mechanical aptitude I couldn't tell you. A good set of spring compressors, the ability to find all the hidden screws to remove the trim in the trunk and the ability to turn a wrench and put things back how they were before is about all you need. Being careful with separating the springs from the dampers is the only part where you need to exercise care.... the stockers have more preload than the Eibach's so taking them off you need to use a spring compressor to compress them before taking off the hat.
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Just to add to what cre as said, you will need a set of spring compressors (as in pic below), mine where a set of cheap ones, the threads are just starting to strip. Having said that, I’ve used them on other vehicles more than a dozed times. Not a difficult job to do, the rear ones are the easiest. It’s only a question of removing the shocks. The front ones you will need to undo the top wishbone bolt, the wishbone will then be clear to gain accesses to removing the shock. You may find you will need a scaffold pipe on the end of your wrench to undo the wishbone bolt (mine where very tight) The only other restriction was the screen wash bottle (on the passenger side for LHD Supras) the bolt will just squeezes past it if your lucky.
Edit, Just one more thing: Always torque up the shock bolts with the vehicle on the ground (not jacked up) The bottom rubber bush could distort otherwise. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/2A-1.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/1A-1.jpg |
Thanks for the info. If I find a set of spring compressors, my dad and me will try our hand at changing them out. Right now we our looking thru my 20+ year old Haynes manual for the removal and installation of my passenger side window motor and the regulator. Do any of you guys know how to remove either of those, the info will GREATLY be appreciated at this point.Thanks.
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Try this Link click top right for next page.
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Haynes is terrible. Use the online Toyota Service and Repair Manual which Bill just linked to; Or, better yet go buy a physical copy.
Of everything I've done on the MKIII, replacing the window regulator and motor and then realigning and adjusting the windows was probably the most irritating. |
Or download the .pdf from this site Link
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I'm having trouble with the passenger side window. The whole time I've had the car, the pass. window would roll down but not up, (I have a 87' turbo by the way), and when I hooked the battery directly to the window motor it went up and down. If the switch goes out on the pass. side will that affect the driver side switch? Because it will usually go down when pressed from either switch but not up.
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The passenger switch's circuit runs through the driver's side switch. It's not uncommon for carbon to buildup on the metal rocker contacts in the switch causing a disruption in the flow of current. You may disassemble the switch and lightly sand the contacts and see if that's the sum of the problem... this happens in the passenger side switch too, but if you can't operate it from the driver's side start with that switch.
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We tried cleaning the contacts of the switches and that was not it , unfortunately. My car has been doing what that guy rj just posted;it has been starting really well since I got a new battery and some new terminals, but starting today it will not crank right away. It takes a few times of turning the key before it starts, and sometimes it starts 5 to 10 times in a row, but then that 6th or 11th try it will not crank. I'm starting to think its my infamous ECU. It is really frustrating not being able to rely on my car ya know.
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Have you checked the battery voltage and tested the alternator? If the old battery took a crap and the only thing you've recently changed I'd be more suspicious of the charging system initially. Check the voltage at the three + supply terminals on the ECU while cranking. If the voltage is dropping below 11v you've got power supply issues... whether or not the ECU is bad, it's power requirements are not being met while cranking.
As for the window, have you taken a meter and followed the supply to see where the loss is? |
I will try that next time I get a sec. I know I keep asking random questions;However, does anybody out there know exactly how many different types of bushings there are for a mk3 and what would be the best buy and if there is a whole set somewhere I can buy. And some tie rods for that matter too.
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How many types? Two... polyurethane and the OEM butyl rubber. If you're looking for a smooth squeak free ride I recommend sticking with the OEM bushings. The "poly" bushings are not very forgiving and (even when frequently lubed) prone to creaking or squeaking. The poly bushings are a popular choice for people looking for a VERY ridgid and compliant ride. Do bear in mind that with OEM bushings and upgrades elsewhere in the suspension you can still have the compliance but more comfort on less ideal roads.
For a track only car though, poly is the only way to go. The OEM bushings are probably available individually from a Toyota dealer or any n umber of online dealers of Toyota parts; I do not know if there is any aftermarket manufacturer. Poly bushings are available from most Supra specialized shops; I think horsepowerfreaks.com sells them in a complete kit or individually.... they should be able to get you the OEM type as well. |
Thanks for all the help, I'm gonna need assistance in the future so... But I will be sure to post pictures of my supra as soon as I get her the way she deserves to be, which is gonna be by the end of this summer!
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1 Attachment(s)
Hey, I need to know if this Momo steering wheel is really OEM and if it will fit my 87 mk3 without an adapter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...item3f0527e972http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...item3f0527e972 |
IIRC, TRD sold a momo for the JZA70 chassis... If that is accurate then no, it won't fit, not without some work. It would probably fit a 89" with little effort though. You would also have to figure out a way of replacing the cruise control controls.... If you're keeping the cruise control.
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Is there any steering wheel you would recommend?
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Not really. There aren't any that are a straight swap; You're going to need a hub adapter and to do some rewiring to relocate those cruise controls any way about it....So just find something you like which has an adapter available and start looking to source a steering column from an 89+.
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I don't plan on using the cruise control at all, and it doesn't even work on my car anyway; and so if I skip all the cruise control would that make it any easier on me?
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Ok, so I know I'm gonna need an adapter, but if I take the steering column from an 89', How difficult would it be to switch the new column out with my old one?
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Sure, then just find a compatible wheel or one which takes hubs, have a horn button and be done.
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As luck would have it, There is an 89' that sits down the street from me and its just rotting away. Now I'm gonna go start taking parts from that one and then see what I can come up with as far as a decent steering wheel.
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Any info on how to take the steering column from the 89' and put it in mine would really be helpful; As well as, any info on which air intake would be the best for my 7mgte. As far as HP and throttle response is all I'm looking for
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Also, my front emblem on the car came off and I was wondering if one of the new emblems from a 91 or up would fit. I had the purple square one and it was just hideous looking, so I would like a newer one, preferably the black emblem with the toyota rings, so does anybody know if that's a straight swap or what?
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Yes, the emblem is a direct fit. Black is the only color that's still available. As for all the rest of your questions... put them all in one post... easier to track that way.
The column isn't the big iddues, the wire harness is different, IIRC. I don't know if they're different but in '89 and newer progressive power steering was an option so you may want to try to avoid a column from such an equipped MKIII. |
Ok, will do about the questions and posts; However, the 89' down the street is not turbo and has cloth seats, not leather. I'm guessing that one is ideal. It has the white gauges that go up to 160. Is that really an 89'?
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'89+ GTE went up to 160MPH, I can't remember if the N/A's did or if they kept the 150. The 160 is a direct swap though.
No the MKIII never came with white gauge faces. EL faces are available from a few different manufacturers though. I'm sure it would be fine, I think you only need the housing and control stems... and to modify your own harness to work with them. |
Quote:
Energy Suspension MK3 Front End Bushing Set Price:$59.50 Part Number: ES-MK3-17527 Front Part List: 4- 2749 Upper Control Arm Bushings 4- 2748 Lower Control Arm Bushings (Rear Facing Position) 4- 2747 Lower Control Arm Bushings (Front Facing Position) 4 -15.10.602.39 Upper Control Arm Sleeves 4- 15.10.413.39 Lower Control Arm Sleeves 1- 17521 Instruction Sheet 4- 9.11108 Grease (Different quantity supplied with master kit) (0.812"O.D x 0.562" I.D x 1.945"L) (1.000"O.D x 0.640" I.D x 2.950"L) Front install instructions: Energy Suspension MK3 Rear End Bushings Set Price: $89.50 Part Number: ES-MK3-17522 Rear Part List: 8- 2752 Upper Control Arm Bushings 4- 2753 Lateral Link Bushings 4- 2754 Rear Toe Link Bushings 4- 2755 Rear Trailing Link Bushings 4- 2756 Spindle to Trailing Link Bushings 10- 15.10.167.39 (.875"O.D x .562"I.D x 1.960"L) All Positions except spindle to trailing arm position. 2- 15.10.20.39 (.875"O.D x .562"I.D x 1.800"L) Spindle to Trailing Arm Position. 1- 17522 Instruction Sheet 4- 9.11108 Grease (Different quantity supplied with master kit) Rear install instructions |
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