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#1 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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A BPV/BOV has an inlet and an outlet. The inlet is on the boosted side of the intake, between the turbo and the throttle body. The Outlet side is on the ambient/vacuum side of the intake, before the turbo (and after the air flow meter in certain setups like this one). The poppet/valve is held closed by a spring and depending on the type the spring is assisted by the boost pressure. When you let off the throttle the intake plenum (the portion AFTER the throttle body) pressure goes negative and the manifold reference (the small vacuum line) goes negative sucking the poppet/valve open against the pressure of the spring. The strength of the spring dictates how much vacuum is required to open and keep the valve open. Excess pressure between the turbo and the throttle body is now discharged back to the intake before the turbo. This prevents new air from entering the system and the ECU doesn't add any more extra fuel... you don't run lean though because the ECU has already measured and allocated fuel for the air which has just had its trip extended. If you just dump the air out, the ECU still thinks it's in the system and it still send fuel for it.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() |
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#2 |
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Intake
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 40
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I follow...
reading always helps... the hks vpc...is this a good tuner? and how hard are they usually to install... maybe i will spend my tax money on one... taken i get the bov thing fixed when the parts get here...
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89 mkIII turbo supra stick black w/ maroon interior!!! |
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#3 |
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Intake
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 40
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Im going to take very detailed pics tomorrow of my setup.
I wasn't the person who put the new motor in, so I don't know everything that was changed and what not. I know that the motor was BUILT. Im looking at the neo it doesn't seem extremely hard to wire and it has alot of good components to it... I know that this car has alot of potential once I get all the minor kinks worked out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-91...Q5fAccessories This is the downpipe i have, the second pipe running down is cut off halfway.
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89 mkIII turbo supra stick black w/ maroon interior!!! |
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#4 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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The VPC is a decent piece of hardware.... but it is OLD. By today's standards it's the MAFT Pro's handicapped brother who even gets beat up in the back of the short bus. It's great that it allows the removal of the KVAFM in favor of a speed/density setup, but the "one size fits all" pre-tuned ROM and very basic tweaking controls leave a LOT to be desired by today's standards. Honestly, at this point I'd step up to a MAFT Gen II or a MAFT Pro.... or go full standalone... but they're hell to learn in most cases.
Basic fuel controller are very easy to wire up, tuning takes practice and unless you're also installing a wideband you just have a shop do it for you. You don't want to run that downpipe on the stock turbo unless you've welded in a dividing plate to separate the air spaces. Aftermarket turbos often have the housing cast so that the wastegate and the exducer's air flow is completely divided... not the case on the stock CT-26. Not doing so makes thins louder than they should be as the primary outlet is leaking out there too and it creates even more pressure that the wastegate actuator has to push against in order to open the gate. = It does not matter that the outlet of the divorced wastegate pipe is open at the end. With a well flowing exhaust thet's just another matter of noise versus stealth... no performance gain, but no loss this time. EDIT: There's also the MAP ECU. It's a unit comparable to the MAFT Pro... well the second generation of the MAP ECU is. Like the MAFT Pro, it lets you change over to a different type of air metering system (the MAFT Gen II does also but it lacks support for S/D and doesn't have a built in boost control function) and allows you to tune your fueling... I don't know if it offers wideband O2 integration, boost control or timing control. I have't used it, but in some circles it is VERY popular.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() Last edited by cre; 02-15-2011 at 02:08 AM. |
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#5 |
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Intake
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 40
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after much much much much much research today...
The neo still has my best interest. what got me was this "On MAF applications with open-air blowoff valves, there is a deceleration air correction feature that allows the tuner to compensate for the over-rich condition that occurs at throttle-off. By adjusting the MAF signal at throttle-off condition, the tuner can reduce the amount of fuel injected and prevent stalling." my main issue right now. The price range on all of the maft tuners are about the same as the neo, and they may have a few more feature than the neo. But I'm looking for something that gets the job done and looks good while doing it and the neo is a perfect example of that. Features like being able to watch rpm's on the screen? how badass is that. I want someone to get in my car and say "nice gps"...and ill be like huh?? that aint gps....thats badass.... this is the link for the apexi neo if anyone else is interested http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/De...id=5347&v=more i also plan on doing the t61 upgrade from the ct26. The only part you have to buy along with it is an oil feed line. The stock drain feed will work. (correct if wrong) The turbo doesn't pull as strong as it should, but holds strong when fully spooling. If i were to guess the hp the supra puts out right now I would guess around 250 or so, with the 1,000 dollars in mods I hope to hit 290 or 300 hp. Which is probably a long shot. Oh and I went back and cancelled the order for the new offbrand bov, I fully believe the hks is doing what it needs to be doing and with it being recirculated it should be fine. By the way, I put a couple of pics up on my profile if you want to take a look.
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89 mkIII turbo supra stick black w/ maroon interior!!! Last edited by jtown125; 02-15-2011 at 03:34 AM. |
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#6 | |||
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Quote:
Quote:
The MAFT series and the MAP ECU also allow you to switch to a less restrictive air metering system.... OR to DELETE the air flow meter altogether... now that's badass. ![]() Quote:
250? At the crank maybe... you have no mods that are any significant power adders. If you'd read up more and take more time you should be able to get a lot more out of your car for that amount of money... of course that depends on how healthy your engine is. Fix that downpipe too.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() |
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#7 |
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Intake
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 40
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People around here don't know alot about cars, I can tell you that much right now.
I do like that everyone comes to me with questions though...its quite sad that almost everything you need to know about cars you can find on the internet...all you have to do is read. (people are lazy, and I am too from time to time) The performance rebuild kit that was put in the engine was rated at 260hp(with turbo at 4500rpm's) that is with .060 bore and a real nice set up on the twin cams and pistons, I don't think the crank was anything special. I DON'T believe its hitting anywhere close to that. It takes 7 seconds for a 0-60. The engine is very healthy and can handle everything I throw at it. (The exhaust has a divider welded on the turbo end) I think I like "badass digital tach" over function cause im still young. But the functions are close to being the same on all of the tuners, thats why there is so much competition over the items... And the neo is a little easier to install in my personal opinion. Now learning how to adjust things on it...thats another story.
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89 mkIII turbo supra stick black w/ maroon interior!!! |
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