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#1 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bossier City LA
Posts: 556
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A few guys have bought radiators from Fluidyne and have very good results. I bought an aftermarked race aluminum for mine and in the 100+ here, it never moves, even with the heater turned to 65. I bought the large 16" fan from Advanced Auto, all of the parts houses carry these things. I also have an adjustable temp sensor for the fan so I can dial in the temp I want it to go off and with this radiator it doesn't stay on long. Just take off the fan clutch and put four small bolts to hold the pulley and go with the electric fan.
The stupid thing about the heater core being used to help the engine cool is that it works!! That means running the heater in the summer to help it cool down. To me, that shows that the stock radiator is very inadequate. It is nice but very thin. Fine for up north I guess but not for down here in the south. Make sure the system is flushed and flowing very well, maybe even let the flush run through it a bit longer than the instructions state and do it several times. Try water wetter too, it does help a little. I really think you have to have a piece of metal under the airdam to the frame under the radiator to keep the air flowing into the rad and not back out under the car first. Make sure the condensor is clear too. I didn't make a shroud for my electric fan and bigger radiator and it doesn't need one, but the stock radiator definately needs the shroud. Well good luck with it. Russ |
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#2 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 78
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Thanks for your help thus-far; still need to check out the ISC but not really enough time with Rita about to slam into the coast here; hopefully I'll have some time to check it in the near future.
I forget, but isn't the ISC a testable part electrically? I know that carbon buildup on the sensor will cause problems, but I'm not sure if the valve itself has gone bad yet.
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Black '87 N/A Auto |
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#3 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bossier City LA
Posts: 556
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The part can be tested. Suprrrrrrra-girl, whoops too many r's, had a link to a service manual that would probably tell you exactly what to test and the values. I have a cd service manual, but I can't figure out how to copy it to here. Ask her for that link.
Russ |
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#4 |
7M POWAH! ;)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2,312
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what were the results of your compression test?
do you still have high idle?
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Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me ![]() Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" ![]() Do a diagnostic first! |
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#5 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 78
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This is an 'oops' part on my fault. When it was mentioned about an idle control screw, I was looking at the one where the boot of the throttle cable rested (by the end of the throttle body) - I wasn't messing with the one that was IN the throttle body. Now that I've adjusted it, it's back down to 700 (after warming up, of course)
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Black '87 N/A Auto |
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