Car wont turn over after swap!

Travis89Turbo · 09-28-2010, 01:01 AM

400mv is not holding voltage... The power on the big cable NEEDS TO BE A SOLID 12 VOLTS. OR 12,000MV. IF IT HAS THAT AND A GROUND THEN CHECK THE SIGNAL WIRE WHEN THE KEY IS BEIN TURNED...AND AGAIN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS NO POSSIBLE WAY YOUR PROBLEM! IT WON'T STOP THE CAR FROM CRANKING.... THAT'S BASIC MECHANICS.. I don't care who's car its on... I m done trying to solve your problem cuz u ain't listening to me.. it would take 1 min to figure if the problem is the starter (i don't care if its new it can still be bad) or wires. A simple 2 wire test..

btwilson86 · 09-28-2010, 04:16 AM

Alright, that's enough arguing in this guys thread. Ochowdero, Travis89Turbo, your posts in this thread are being edited so that all irrelevant information is deleted and this thread can stay on topic.

OP, please post back with your findings so that we may be able to continue to help

btwilson86 · 09-28-2010, 04:44 AM

OP, you said that you replaced the big wire that goes to the starter (i'm assuming that this is the one that you said only had 400mv); what is the voltage at the wire now? This wire, at all times (regardless of if the key is on, clutch is pressed, alarm is armed), should always read the same voltage of the battery. Period. It is a direct connection to the battery, there is nothing inline that can cut the power to it.

Do this in the order listed below:

You said it's a new battery, have you verified that it still has a charge? Use your volt meter and check the voltage of the battery between the positive and negative posts. If this isn't around 12 volts, charge the battery.
Check the voltage of the big wire at the starter to the negative post. If this is not the same as #1, inspect the positive battery terminal. If it is, continue to #3
Check the voltage of the big wire at the starter to a clean spot on the engine block. Voltage here should still be the same as the above two bullets. If it is not, inspect your negative battery cable for damage, corrosion, or poor connection at each end.

If your voltage is still the same, then your problem lies in the circuit leading to the small wire on the starter, or within the starter itself. As Travis89Turbo said, just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. All parts have a percentage of defects out the box, yours could be one of them.

ochowdero · 09-28-2010, 06:40 AM

this website should help,
since were arguing about what it is and dont have very much information on whats going on you need to read this..

it gives your common questions or problems and gives you the answers..

if you found the problem on the troubleshooting list (the link) and the trouble shoot didnt work then come back to us with the correct problem and the best information you can give us...

heres the link
http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html#click

the area you need to look at on this page is in the middle..
starting with "The starter won't crank" - thru - "battery problems"

this info should help you..

Conga1991 · 10-02-2010, 01:19 AM

Okay, it was just ba wiring in the harness. I replaced it wit a manual harness and got it to turn over but no spark now

I checked to see if there was power getting to the coil pack (book said 12 volts) and there was no power 0 Volts. I checked the igniter and there wa 11 volts getting to it. So could the problem be the coil pack??

Travis89Turbo · 10-02-2010, 01:42 AM

So u just bypassed the harness correct? U need to make sure that ignition signal gets to the ecu as well

Conga1991 · 10-02-2010, 02:06 AM

No, I just swapped in the manual harness and it turned over. Just no starting all the way.

09-28-2010, 04:16 AM	#2
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Alright, that's enough arguing in this guys thread. Ochowdero, Travis89Turbo, your posts in this thread are being edited so that all irrelevant information is deleted and this thread can stay on topic. OP, please post back with your findings so that we may be able to continue to help __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels Last edited by btwilson86; 09-28-2010 at 04:27 AM.

09-28-2010, 06:40 AM	#4
ochowdero 12psi boost Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: California Posts: 277	this website should help, since were arguing about what it is and dont have very much information on whats going on you need to read this.. it gives your common questions or problems and gives you the answers.. if you found the problem on the troubleshooting list (the link) and the trouble shoot didnt work then come back to us with the correct problem and the best information you can give us... heres the link http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html#click the area you need to look at on this page is in the middle.. starting with "The starter won't crank" - thru - "battery problems" this info should help you.. __________________ 1987 supra, BLUE 7mge.. AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP.. i really want turbo

10-02-2010, 01:42 AM	#6
Travis89Turbo 12psi boost Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Utah Posts: 332	So u just bypassed the harness correct? U need to make sure that ignition signal gets to the ecu as well __________________ 1995 Toyota Supra SE 71k miles. Master power T70 stock 2jzge 1989 Toyota Supra. 1jzgte swap 5 speed of course.. Driftmotion 60-1 single turbo kit. Cxracing FMIC. 2jz 550cc injectors... soon to come..... EMS Stinger. BC 264 cams 680cc injectors Spec stage 4 clutch and A LOT of boost!------SOLD 1999 Ford F350 diesel 2004 Jaguar XJR Supercharged If it hasnt broke you haven pushed it hard enough!!

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09-28-2010, 01:01 AM	#1
Travis89Turbo 12psi boost Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Utah Posts: 332	400mv is not holding voltage... The power on the big cable NEEDS TO BE A SOLID 12 VOLTS. OR 12,000MV. IF IT HAS THAT AND A GROUND THEN CHECK THE SIGNAL WIRE WHEN THE KEY IS BEIN TURNED...AND AGAIN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS NO POSSIBLE WAY YOUR PROBLEM! IT WON'T STOP THE CAR FROM CRANKING.... THAT'S BASIC MECHANICS.. I don't care who's car its on... I m done trying to solve your problem cuz u ain't listening to me.. it would take 1 min to figure if the problem is the starter (i don't care if its new it can still be bad) or wires. A simple 2 wire test.. __________________ 1995 Toyota Supra SE 71k miles. Master power T70 stock 2jzge 1989 Toyota Supra. 1jzgte swap 5 speed of course.. Driftmotion 60-1 single turbo kit. Cxracing FMIC. 2jz 550cc injectors... soon to come..... EMS Stinger. BC 264 cams 680cc injectors Spec stage 4 clutch and A LOT of boost!------SOLD 1999 Ford F350 diesel 2004 Jaguar XJR Supercharged If it hasnt broke you haven pushed it hard enough!! Last edited by btwilson86; 09-28-2010 at 04:24 AM.

09-28-2010, 04:44 AM	#3
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	OP, you said that you replaced the big wire that goes to the starter (i'm assuming that this is the one that you said only had 400mv); what is the voltage at the wire now? This wire, at all times (regardless of if the key is on, clutch is pressed, alarm is armed), should always read the same voltage of the battery. Period. It is a direct connection to the battery, there is nothing inline that can cut the power to it. Do this in the order listed below: You said it's a new battery, have you verified that it still has a charge? Use your volt meter and check the voltage of the battery between the positive and negative posts. If this isn't around 12 volts, charge the battery. Check the voltage of the big wire at the starter to the negative post. If this is not the same as #1, inspect the positive battery terminal. If it is, continue to #3 Check the voltage of the big wire at the starter to a clean spot on the engine block. Voltage here should still be the same as the above two bullets. If it is not, inspect your negative battery cable for damage, corrosion, or poor connection at each end. If your voltage is still the same, then your problem lies in the circuit leading to the small wire on the starter, or within the starter itself. As Travis89Turbo said, just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. All parts have a percentage of defects out the box, yours could be one of them. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

10-02-2010, 01:19 AM	#5
Conga1991 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Avondale, AZ Posts: 169	Okay, it was just ba wiring in the harness. I replaced it wit a manual harness and got it to turn over but no spark now I checked to see if there was power getting to the coil pack (book said 12 volts) and there was no power 0 Volts. I checked the igniter and there wa 11 volts getting to it. So could the problem be the coil pack??

10-02-2010, 02:06 AM	#7
Conga1991 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Avondale, AZ Posts: 169	No, I just swapped in the manual harness and it turned over. Just no starting all the way.