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Old 09-15-2010, 10:07 PM   #1
Conga1991
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I unlocked and locked the passenger side and tried starting it and still nothing, but now the fuel leak is back so im gonna use some white plumber tape on the union. and im gonna replace the large wire from the battery to the starter hoping thats the problem.

So if the wires to the starter (large battery and small ecu plug) arent the problems, then the only thing causing the starter not to start is the ignition wiring?
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conga1991 View Post
I unlocked and locked the passenger side and tried starting it and still nothing, but now the fuel leak is back so im gonna use some white plumber tape on the union. and im gonna replace the large wire from the battery to the starter hoping thats the problem.

So if the wires to the starter (large battery and small ecu plug) arent the problems, then the only thing causing the starter not to start is the ignition wiring?
If the fuel line fittings are taper thread, then the teflon tape will work. But, if the fuel fittings are flared tubing or a banjo bolt, the tape will do nothing.

As to the alarm, try unlocking on drivers door, passenger door, and hatch. IIRC, I had this happen once and it did matter which lock disarmed it?

You could remove the starter and do a bench test: Connect battery "-" to the frame and battery "+" to the large stud and see if it runs. Then you know if the starter works or not. If it runs, then the problem is either in your power connections to the starter, or, in the control circuit. The control circuit gets a little more complicated, hopefully you have a manual and/or wiring diagrams?

I don't recall that you stated the year of your car, but, I have manuals on 86.5 and could post diagrams if that would help.

Hope some of this helps.

Good luck!

Denny
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:44 AM   #3
Conga1991
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My car is a 88, its in the start of the thread but the motor and ecu with harness is from a 87. I will check the hatch key lock to see if that works and if not I bought new battery cables to see if that works. I hope it works cuz I dont want to mess with the ignition wiring or circuit board.
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conga1991 View Post
My car is a 88, its in the start of the thread but the motor and ecu with harness is from a 87. I will check the hatch key lock to see if that works and if not I bought new battery cables to see if that works. I hope it works cuz I dont want to mess with the ignition wiring or circuit board.
Look man check the signal wire to the starter before going any further. It will tell u in about 3 minutes if your starter is gettin the signal to start. Do this before replacing or pulling anything... why must everyone start with the hardest things first. Why pull the starter when u can check it bolted right where its at.... if ur getting the signal and have a solid 12v to the big wire then its your starter.. if ur not then its something on the ignition side of things weither its the alarm locking it out or wiring or power issue. But check the signal wire first always.. its just as important as the main batt cable.
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:52 AM   #5
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If you read what I posted above I did and the readings was read. It would start from 0 m V and go up to 400 m V, not sure what this means. but from what my brother-in-law thinks it might be charging up then dies or something, so it must be the battery cable right?
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conga1991 View Post
If you read what I posted above I did and the readings was read. It would start from 0 m V and go up to 400 m V, not sure what this means. but from what my brother-in-law thinks it might be charging up then dies or something, so it must be the battery cable right?
my car wouldnt start a day ago, jump it and got it to the shop,
alot of corrosion was on the battery cables..
took them off, pull the battery out, poured alil of baking soda and water(or coca cola will work) on the battery prongs, sprayed it down with water to get excess corrosion off..the loaded it up in my friends trunk to take to pep boys to get tested..

before i left for that, i got some coke and let the battery cable sit inside a cup full of it to eat the corrosion off til i got back

tested my battery, it held 12 volts which is need but lil to no amps..so it couldnt start the car...BAD BATTERY

i reccomend doing this before anything my friend...
if its a new battery then its the cables... replace the cables.. if it still doesnt work its the starter..
simple as that...
hope it works
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:55 AM   #7
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Thanks! I'll do that tomorrow and hopefully it will work, other then that I just got to fix the coolant leak and the fuel leak that I thought I fixed but didnt :/ so every time i try to turn it over it leaks a bit. but i pulled the efi fuse so it doesn flood the cylinders.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conga1991 View Post
If you read what I posted above I did and the readings was read. It would start from 0 m V and go up to 400 m V, not sure what this means. but from what my brother-in-law thinks it might be charging up then dies or something, so it must be the battery cable right?
It sounds like your talking about the big cable? I need the readings off of both cables please. 400mv is nowhere near enough signal to start it. If that's the big cable with that reading then replacing the cable will fix this. If its the little one then there is something wrong on the ignition side of things. 1000mv equals 1v by the way so u should have 12k if reading mv. 400mv could just be voltage noise. Or a bad ground. U hooked the ground up on the block right?
__________________

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1989 Toyota Supra. 1jzgte swap 5 speed of course..
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1999 Ford F350 diesel

2004 Jaguar XJR Supercharged


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Old 09-17-2010, 05:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo View Post
It sounds like your talking about the big cable? I need the readings off of both cables please. 400mv is nowhere near enough signal to start it. If that's the big cable with that reading then replacing the cable will fix this. If its the little one then there is something wrong on the ignition side of things. 1000mv equals 1v by the way so u should have 12k if reading mv. 400mv could just be voltage noise. Or a bad ground. U hooked the ground up on the block right?
could be a bad battery..
battery with enough volts will turn on the components in the car but if it doesnt have over 450 amps it wont start the car..
(450 amps could be wrong, when i tested mine it read 212 amps and it was nowhere near good, soo maybe anything higher then 300?)

idk like i said just have pep boys test it.. if its bad then its the battery,
get a new one and if it still doesnt start the car its the big wire going to the starter.. replace that and should be running!
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