If it sat that long and was just periodically turned on and then back off there could be a significant amount of damage from condensation: Pitted cylinder walls and eroded bearings.... just something to keep in mind. Was this still driven on weekends or just sitting in a garage for 5 years? At any rate, if you've got experience with rebuilding and plan on doing so it's no big deal.

oo belive me i just droped alot of money on hourse power freaks, bottom to top rebuild! but i did have a question should i get a ruber HG or a metal one? and what kind of pistions? and any one know were i can get a High VOL Water pump? and any one know the size of the belt needed with out AC! and whats a good cam set up? i have found alot just wondering what worked the best for people if you tryed out a few. and after market heads? do they even exist???????? sure have found alot of cat backs tho ahah! http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part..._Touring/10112
has any one messed with that exaust?

hahah its funny the more looking i do the more shit i find i forgot to order!! such as a bushing main kit! break lines big break kit! ahahah its starting to add up, Total is now at 5476.87 car not included! oo and as i was looking around any one know a sight for trans rebuild kit and/or trans gears?

Rubber HG? WTF are you talking about? Where on Earth did you hear of rubber head gaskets??? Your choices are: composite (like the stock one; single layer of metal as a substrate for compressed graphite), copper (generally only used in racing applications) and multi layer steel (MLS generally what is being referred to as a "metal HG"). MLS, steel shims and even some copper HGs vome with a VERY thin viton coating to act as a sealant, but this doesn't justify the title of "rubber HG".

Aha I'll post the link when I get home it was on eBay. I was thinking the same thing.

Only two possibilities: 1) joke/novelty 2) they're fucking retarded

My guess is a retard!!!:p

But to go back to your question, the man said it was started every weeke d and drove around the block. For 10 mins and basic shit was done.

If your going to rebuild the motor from top to bottom why not convert it to a NA-T. If your looking for cams the best bang for you dollar would be to buy a set of 7mgte cams and put them in your head. Oh and buy a metal head gasket and ARP head studs

Ok... just stop right now... I don't know who the f#$% you're talking to but they've no idea what they're talking about and have apparently missed all the threads, tests and the regular old fashioned physics involved in all the old wives' tales of the Supra.

There is NO difference in the GTE and GE exhaust cams. The only difference is a VERY small change in duration vs lift. GE intake cams on the GTE make it fall flat on its ass in the mid RPM and remains there. Running a GTE cam in the GE costs the N/A pretty heavily. You lose a very big amount of bottom end power and the N/A doesn't flow enough to make up for it (as the GTE does starting around 2K RPM). The GTE intake cam is a worthless upgrade... well, downgrade actually.