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#1 |
7M POWAH! ;)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2,312
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i would suggest you get forged rods & pistons with all arp hardware... it's gonna get you reliability
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Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me ![]() Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" ![]() Do a diagnostic first! |
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#2 |
Stock
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 20
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cool how many G's you think those would run me at? is there anything else?
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#3 |
7M POWAH! ;)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2,312
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not sure of the pricing over there for those items... but here for a set of rods and pistons would cost bout $2500ish nz dollars
definitely hks gasket with arp head studs walbro fuel pump (or even larger) fuel pressure regulator injectors 6-700hp i would honestly suggest an aftermarket ecu for efficient tuning arp main and rod bolts can't think of anything else
__________________
Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me ![]() Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" ![]() Do a diagnostic first! |
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#4 |
Stock
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 20
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i have looked in allot of places and i cant realy find an ECU i really like other than STAND ALONE but i need to think if that will be worth the doe$$$ cuz its allot of money for a fuel managment system.
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#5 |
SP58GT
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Dirty Jerz
Posts: 691
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i also recommending upgrading valvetrain if youre gonna make that amount of power, ull need to think about the valves, the retainers, the springs, also think about fuel management because running lean...is just not cool, ull probably need new injectors, fuel pump....hhaha u know wut i just realized i said almost the same exact thing as suprra girl...oh well...its the right thing to do, as for the ecu... i think its harder to make that amount of power off a piggyback..though possible its not easy...a standalone is a lot more efficient, but yea it will cost some hard earned cash but i think its the best way to go because there are more choices and applications if you go standalone, piggy back is also good but when make serious power such as 600-700hp...i would recommend getting a standalone
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#6 |
Stock
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 20
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How much horse power can the stock clutch, tranny and rear diff handle?
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#7 |
SP58GT
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Dirty Jerz
Posts: 691
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i would say around...350 change change the clutch and the rear diff....though i think the rear diff would still be ok...but ull notice some loss in teh handling...itll be a little.."squishy" i guess u can say since it wouldnt be able to handle the power....the clutch ull know when to change when the plate starts to slip, but its better not to run a stock clutch kit...ull run into some problems later
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#8 | |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Reno
Posts: 77
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I've only built larger motors(350's, actually). And as I prefer higher revs a really tough crank is required. What kind of crank does the 3 litre motor come with stock? And where could I find a 4340 or 4130(or whatever) steel crank? |
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