:bigthumb:
If you have a rust free MKIII, with no huge bangs, ripples or dents.. the rest is just fluff. : ) Nice find!
now.. pics or it didnt happen.. lol

Haha! Pics coming very soon. I need to wax and detail it first though. All the bugs and grime from a major road trip don't make for a great first impression.

1st 87 turbo supra I paid $1,640 with leaky body.

I paid $300 for my 2nd 87 n/a "twopra".

1st- 1987 Maroon int/ext :) NA-5speed T-top-All stock under 100K miles- $1200.

Original Paint was fading on hood but the rest was pretty shiny after a nice buff. Spent about $200 on pacesetter catback w/ flowmaster (magnaflow?) catalytic converter came with it. Sold it.

2nd-1991 blue int/ white exterior 7mgte-5speed. $1400

Front end damage. Had Mines ECU, 57 trim Ct26, rebuilt engine with stock components, Cometic HG, Ksport coilovers, cusco sway/tower strut stuffs, 3" full exhaust setup, Hyper ground kit, bunch of gauges...i deleted most of them as was kinda cluttered. Came with RSS rims-

3rd-1991 Blue int/white exterior 7mge-5speed $300

Swapped everything I could from my 2nd supra to 3rd. Spent $400 on new brakes (premium crossdrilled/slotted) and pads from R1concepts. Damn good shit. Would highly recommend getting them if you have a tight budget. Would post up pics but only the engine compartment looks good...the rest...:frown:

traded a boat i got for free for a motorcycle and the motorcycle for my supra
87 turbo 5 speed

What do you guys think of a 91 mk3 turbo targa top 5spd everything in excellent condition, motor is fine, interior is great, tranny is fine, 80k original miles, only damage is the scuff and hole in the front bumper and a small ding behind the drive side door for $3,200?

As long as there's no rust, the head gasket is not shot, clean title, and no major body damage, $3,200 sounds like a really good deal. Take it from somebody who was on the market for many months before buying one.

Thanks I plan on setting up an appointment with a Toyota dealer near the area and have them check it out.

I call that a super deal. Just get the engine looked at closely.. everything else is age/wear and tear. Plus.. it all depends on your plans for the car.

Make sure you put your hands down the rear quarter panels (there are access panels in the hatch area) and check the condition of the metal along the wheel wells and inside the quarter panels. Dirt+Water = rust holes which will eventually pop off the quarters if not given attention asap. Water can also come in via the brake light seals and hatch seal, but that usually lands up in the spare tire well (which you need to see WITHOUT the spare tire). A bit of blue from a cold engine start can mean a simple valve seal shrinkage which is common for the 7M engine.. and normally I wouldn't say this, but I have had 3 gas tanks leak so far, so it would be nice to see it with at least 65% fuel in the tank.

3200 is a good buy if the car is fairly straight and runs nice. Its repairs which can kill you financially depending on your level of expertise.

Good luck!

Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to check that out, my friend has worked on this car and assures me it is solid I only want to change the head gasket to prevent it from blowing on me while driving somewhere. I plan on just getting the car to look clean and under 400hp so nothing crazy just simple mods that won't affect reliability too much but it seems that to reach about 400hp I'd need to get bigger injectors and an AFM since I would have to turn up the boost. I'd only turn up the boost for when I need it though otherwise it will be at stock level boost for just normal driving. I'll make a build thread and ask more technical questions in there about suspension and try to do the work myself but if I can't do it I know a guy who owns a shop that works on race motors and cars.