Legit 7M upgrades

[907mge]

why mess with the stroker kit, you don't need it

[btwilson86]

I think the main reason you wouldn't want that stroker kit is because of the increase in piston velocity. By putting a longer stroke on the piston, it now has to move faster to cover the longer distance in the same period of time as before. Normally this would not be too big of a deal on many engines, but the M series engine has been modified 6 times already in terms of bore and stroke (hence the "7"M) and is already very near it's upper limits in stroke.

I know there was a thread on here around a year and a half ago that went into some detail about it, but I can't seem to find it now. If anyone else has that link, please share because I found it very informative.

Oh, another downside to that kit would be if the compression was increased. Higher compression should mean that it requires more effort to push the boosted air in the combustion chamber, resulting in less air being used and alot of wasted energy compressing it with the turbo.


With all of that said, I would think your route would be (in this order or very similar):

Aftermarket Radiator
New Vacuum Hoses
Better Brakes
New Struts or Coilovers
New Suspension Bushings (Sway Bar, Control Arm, etc.)
Upgraded Clutch
High Flow Air Filter
Aftermarket FMIC
Hard Pipe Kit for FMIC
Full 3" Exhaust
Lexus AFM
550cc Fuel Injectors
Aftermarket Boost Gauge (Factory gauge would be unreliable, and since your swapping from a 7MGE you'll need one)
Boost Controller

All of the above is assuming that you rebuilt your used 7MGTE, opted for a MHG and ARP Bolts/Studs, and use a high quality coolant / motor oil / transmission oil / differential oil

Don't know if all of that will get you 350hp or not, but IMO that should make for a very solid, very fun ride. Sorry there's no prices, I've never priced this build out before and everyone has their own brand preferences.

[btwilson86]

Oh, also there's no clue how long those engines that were dyno tested as the ad says lasted before they blew. I think my build list as posted above should make for a reliable car as well

[614mk3]

im trying to build my 7mgte i got it with a ported and polished head, 3" downpipe, full exhaust and an extra block thats .20 over. i want to have it bored another .20 over and im going to have the valves bored 1mm over 1mm=.40 over im doing brian crower stage 3 cams, valve springs, and valves with a stroker kit forged pistons h beam rods,hi flow fuel rail , 550 or 650 cc injectors a 71 trim turbo or a twin turbo setup not sure on the turbo set up.my rough guess on power is about 450 to 600 running on 93 pump gas

[cre]

I recommend against boring these blocks unless it's necessary. There's not a lot of meat to the walls and you can make up the difference in power with a VERY small increase in boost.

[Supra Saiyan]

THIS!! This is exactly what I needed to see.. Ok, now for me to find some prices and go for the goal.. I had searched the forum for my own answers but everything seemed so jumbled in my brain..

[Green7mgte]

depending on were you get your parts from. the most expensive thing on that list would be the injectors. then the exhaust. or vice verse.
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...t-a-supra.html
that link talks about upgrades and gives some just random pricing on injectors to give you a feel for whats expected. you might as well throw on a 3" turbo elbow and exhaust header to that list. if your gonna do something, might as well do it right.