Legit 7M upgrades
 

Looking to make 350HP on my 7M engine.. Figuring on not swapping out to a 7MT (No matter the apparent savings)
I have found a few stroker kits to help me out. I have read that putting in a new stroker kit may not be a good idea (without an answer to why). I also want to run pump gas. I'm sure this will be possible.. Engine needs to stay streetable. I mean it's only 350hp..
What do i need to get to 350HP? I will list one of the storker kits I found.

This is one I was looking at team. The cost is $2599.

7MGE/7MGTE Stroker Kits Include:

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif IPP's Forged Crank
Stock Stroke (3.583", 91mm)
New Stroke (3.833", 97.5mm)
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Custom Forged Pistons
(any comp & diam)
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Forged Steel Pins
(see upgrade option below)
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Piston Pin Locks
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Plasma Moly Racing Rings
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif 4340 H-Beam Rods
(see upgrade option below)
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Toga Performance Main Bearings
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Toga Performance Rod Bearings
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne.../checkmark.gif Comes balanced


It's 6.5mm more stroke that when added to the increased bore equals 665cc more cubes of usable power!
Our stroker kit increases torque as much as 30% and 45 Horse Power (much more can be achieved with other HP increasing accessories). This means more pulling and launching power. This can be used with factory FI or Turbos (adjustments in fuel supply may be needed). After 4 months of Dyno Testing, our non-turbo DOHC motor produced 259 HP and 247lbs of torque. The Turbo produced 320HP and 315 lbs of Torque. Both figures were produced with only the Stroker Kit. As an option, much higher figures can be achieved with additional parts added to the engine.

Stock 1992 Non-Turbo HP is 190 @ 5600rpm 1888 ft/lbs torque .
Turbo is 232 HP @ 5600rpm with 254 torque.


Your engine before & after!
With Original CC's = 2954cc's (Stock Bore 3157cc)
With new Crank .060 = 3271cc's (non-turbo)

That's a 328cc+ increase for Non-Turbo motors!



http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...s_toyota2.html

A TURBO

I believe I said its not possible to hit anything near your goals in a 7m
you need the 7mgte or your gonna be topping out near 250. but hell don't take my word for it

lol, ok ok.. You guys finally convinced me.. I will just get the 7MT engine.. So how much are we talking about needing not for installation. Please only include price of what I would need to make 350HP. Include the engine price, tranny, bigger turbo, and what ever else I would need to make a stable jump from 230hp of the stock 7mt to 350hp. Don't forget things like exhaust, air intake, etc...

research, it will help you learn at the same time

My best guess to get 350hp would be to get the 7mt and then that stroker kit. Should put me right around what they claim to be 320hp. Then exhaust and air intake, better injectors, maybe a piggy back ecu deal.. I think that would give me 350hp easy, if not a little more.

7MT Engine + R154 Man. Tran. (30k/40k miles) - $2000
Stroker Kit from Import performance parts (Above)- $2500
Air intake - $200
Exhaust System 3in - $600
Piggy back from Venom - $300
555cc injectors - $200

Am I right.. Wrong.. Close.. Help me out..

why mess with the stroker kit, you don't need it

I think the main reason you wouldn't want that stroker kit is because of the increase in piston velocity. By putting a longer stroke on the piston, it now has to move faster to cover the longer distance in the same period of time as before. Normally this would not be too big of a deal on many engines, but the M series engine has been modified 6 times already in terms of bore and stroke (hence the "7"M) and is already very near it's upper limits in stroke.

I know there was a thread on here around a year and a half ago that went into some detail about it, but I can't seem to find it now. If anyone else has that link, please share because I found it very informative.

Oh, another downside to that kit would be if the compression was increased. Higher compression should mean that it requires more effort to push the boosted air in the combustion chamber, resulting in less air being used and alot of wasted energy compressing it with the turbo.


With all of that said, I would think your route would be (in this order or very similar):

Aftermarket Radiator
New Vacuum Hoses
Better Brakes
New Struts or Coilovers
New Suspension Bushings (Sway Bar, Control Arm, etc.)
Upgraded Clutch
High Flow Air Filter
Aftermarket FMIC
Hard Pipe Kit for FMIC
Full 3" Exhaust
Lexus AFM
550cc Fuel Injectors
Aftermarket Boost Gauge (Factory gauge would be unreliable, and since your swapping from a 7MGE you'll need one)
Boost Controller

All of the above is assuming that you rebuilt your used 7MGTE, opted for a MHG and ARP Bolts/Studs, and use a high quality coolant / motor oil / transmission oil / differential oil

Don't know if all of that will get you 350hp or not, but IMO that should make for a very solid, very fun ride. Sorry there's no prices, I've never priced this build out before and everyone has their own brand preferences.

Oh, also there's no clue how long those engines that were dyno tested as the ad says lasted before they blew. I think my build list as posted above should make for a reliable car as well