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#1 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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I would just pull the alternator out and take to a parts store to have it tested... Here they all do it for free and it's easy to do. That's VERY low and below the ECU's minimum from what I've been told.
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#2 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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I 2nd that, get it tested. Some stores can test the regulator/diodes while it's on the car, so you literally just drive there.
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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#3 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tucson Arizona
Posts: 97
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I sometimes get that issue and am curious to how can i identify and replace the fusible link, cause all the signs point to that.
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#4 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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ALT 100A FL in the engine bay fuse box.
Some aftermarket power wires also have a FL in the middle of them; just a 1" to 2" sections of a different diameter is what you can look for.
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#5 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Um... you know it comes out from the bottom, right? And you can use a sealed one as specified for later years in place of the wire if your car had the wire.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() |
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#6 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Then look closer... I'm not making it up. The top half and bottom separate and each section of the inside of the upper comes out individually. The fusible links do not pull out from the top.
The contained module versus wire is just a matter of preference and are interchangeable... it's just as possible that yours was replaced once already with a wire FL.... it's also possible that some jackass replaced it with regular wire (BAD idea).
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. ![]() Tip Jar ---> ![]() Last edited by cre; 10-04-2010 at 12:08 AM. |
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#7 | |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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nor did you from the start.... jebus, there's a time you just have to suck it up and pay a mechanic. All the parts you're looking at there are bits of the former FL.... OPEN UP THE FUSE BOX.
And there's nothing triple about that part... get it open, look what you're dealing with and don't be a dipshit (example below). Quote:
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