Turbo + Catalytic Converter

cre · 12-04-2009, 10:55 PM

You need to TEST the waste gate... don't just throw money at the car or you'll be broke in no time.

Cyto · 12-04-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

You need to TEST the waste gate... don't just throw money at the car or you'll be broke in no time.

We have, we took the little tube that connects to the actuator, put a ton of pressure and nothing happened.

2 different people suggested it was stuck shut.

I have been meaning to replace it for a few months now, but I havent known exactly which part I needed to replace.
Is this the right part?

http://www.ioffer.com/i/Toyota-CT26-...urbo-124287115

cre · 12-04-2009, 11:20 PM

Yeah, I was one of the people who suggested it... or was that someone else's post I responded to... doesn't matter anyway, just wanted to be sure you tested it.

That looks like the right part, but I would ask the the distance from the center of the two mounting holes from each other and the distance from the center of each hole to the center of the bell... just to be 100% sure.

If the gate itself is stuck a new actuator isn't going to help. You'll need to pull the turbo and see what needs cleaned up. You may want to disconnect the actuator's arm and then try moving the waste gate's armature by hand or with pliers. If the waste gate itself is stuck it is possible te actuator is also damaged now as well, so re-test it when it's disconnected.

Cyto · 12-04-2009, 11:24 PM

Okay, I'll do that. It's almost 10 degrees outside, so I'll wait until tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help. I'm starting to get an understanding of this problematic car. So many things can go wrong. Its crazy.

MA70-3.0GT · 12-06-2009, 03:26 PM

tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=IN&P=1

(if you haven't already got it in your favourites, PUT IT THERE!!! It's a godsend!)

In the tsrm it says if the wastegate itself is stuck, buy a new turbo!

OK, back to planet earth & most stuck 'gates can be freed by oiling the pivot & working back & forth with pliers (actuator disconnected at this stage) until it's nice & easy to move again.

A lot of turbos can be got to without removal but the CT26 is a bitch to get at in the Supra (ask my knuckles!) so you'd be best off removing it if that's the issue. As cre said, if the 'gate is siezed the actuator may have been damaged by now but considering the price of new ones it's worth testing while disconnected to make sure. Not with "a ton of pressure" though as this can damage it, just around 10/11psi as in my previous post & it should move at around 7...

cre · 12-07-2009, 06:07 AM

Don't rely on oil to lubricate the waste gate... it's WAY too hot in there and no oil will last. Use a HIGH QUALITY penetrant to CLEAN our the hinged. Work the hell out of the hinge while keeping it thoroughly saturated and periodically flush it out with more.

I hadn't realized that OEM CT-26 waste gate actuators could be had as inexpensively and the OP found... last one I had to replace was for a monster Turbonetics and ran about $150, IIRC.

MA70-3.0GT · 12-08-2009, 02:45 PM

Oops, I meant pen. oil!!! Actually brake cleaner would be a better bet wouldn't it? Bearing in mind it's not going to leave behind any residue to burn into carbon & stick it again?

That actuator isn't bad at all, does it specify it as a Supra one though? The Landcruiser & others also used the CT26 & ran different boost levels IIRC...

12-04-2009, 11:24 PM	#4
Cyto 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: USA Posts: 103	Okay, I'll do that. It's almost 10 degrees outside, so I'll wait until tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. I'm starting to get an understanding of this problematic car. So many things can go wrong. Its crazy. __________________ Proud owner of a 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo, 105k Miles, and great condition. I might have to sell it to help pay for school so here's the link. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...html#post72357

12-06-2009, 03:26 PM	#5
MA70-3.0GT 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Crewe, England Posts: 356	tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=IN&P=1 (if you haven't already got it in your favourites, PUT IT THERE!!! It's a godsend!) In the tsrm it says if the wastegate itself is stuck, buy a new turbo! OK, back to planet earth & most stuck 'gates can be freed by oiling the pivot & working back & forth with pliers (actuator disconnected at this stage) until it's nice & easy to move again. A lot of turbos can be got to without removal but the CT26 is a bitch to get at in the Supra (ask my knuckles!) so you'd be best off removing it if that's the issue. As cre said, if the 'gate is siezed the actuator may have been damaged by now but considering the price of new ones it's worth testing while disconnected to make sure. Not with "a ton of pressure" though as this can damage it, just around 10/11psi as in my previous post & it should move at around 7... __________________ '89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!

12-08-2009, 02:45 PM	#7
MA70-3.0GT 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Crewe, England Posts: 356	Oops, I meant pen. oil!!! Actually brake cleaner would be a better bet wouldn't it? Bearing in mind it's not going to leave behind any residue to burn into carbon & stick it again? That actuator isn't bad at all, does it specify it as a Supra one though? The Landcruiser & others also used the CT26 & ran different boost levels IIRC... __________________ '89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!

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12-04-2009, 10:55 PM	#1
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	You need to TEST the waste gate... don't just throw money at the car or you'll be broke in no time.

12-04-2009, 11:20 PM	#3
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Yeah, I was one of the people who suggested it... or was that someone else's post I responded to... doesn't matter anyway, just wanted to be sure you tested it. That looks like the right part, but I would ask the the distance from the center of the two mounting holes from each other and the distance from the center of each hole to the center of the bell... just to be 100% sure. If the gate itself is stuck a new actuator isn't going to help. You'll need to pull the turbo and see what needs cleaned up. You may want to disconnect the actuator's arm and then try moving the waste gate's armature by hand or with pliers. If the waste gate itself is stuck it is possible te actuator is also damaged now as well, so re-test it when it's disconnected.

12-07-2009, 06:07 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Don't rely on oil to lubricate the waste gate... it's WAY too hot in there and no oil will last. Use a HIGH QUALITY penetrant to CLEAN our the hinged. Work the hell out of the hinge while keeping it thoroughly saturated and periodically flush it out with more. I hadn't realized that OEM CT-26 waste gate actuators could be had as inexpensively and the OP found... last one I had to replace was for a monster Turbonetics and ran about $150, IIRC.