How do i pull the head off my mkiii?

[livelaughslide]

what do you thinkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk?

[MA70-3.0GT]

Sorry, had to go the other night.

Well first job on the list is get down the guy who sold it to you's house with a can of gas, a box of matches & your negotiating hat on. Get a few hundred $ off him for the aggro he's caused & for lying. Then get everything cleaned up & see how bad it really is.

If the bore & side of the piston aren't damaged then I'd suggest you could get away with it for now, provided the rest of the motor's sweet for a few thousand miles.

If it's generally pretty worn looking though (any smoke? what was your hot oil pressure like at idle, if you recall?) then I'd budget for a full on rebuild or engine swap. To my eye those bores look pretty worn but the pics weren't the best for telling that.

To be honest the best thing to do for now is to clean everything up as best you can, take some more pics including some of all the bores if you can get them to go right (mine wouldn't go in focus 'cause of the shine!) and go from there.

[livelaughslide]

Its all good man, Got a couple of questions though, well first ill awnser yours.

No smoke, never ever ever. useally a car in the condition of mine after idileing for a while then touch the gas i puff of white smoke will emerge due to bad/hard vlave seal but mine was solid.. weird..

As far as oil pressure my guage never worked so during this build i bought 3 tinted bad ass guages Witch im doing somthing very cool with and i put it ina new thread. lol, and as far as wear on the block car ran a 13.8 So im guessing it cant be too bad, lol. i just re-did my intake plenium, bored it with the dremil and nice acid stetic bath. looks brand new.

So anywase about the headgasket. after you get the head back from the machine shop your sapossed to messure how much they took off and replace it with a thicker gasket..

Well if stock is 1.3mm.. why does greddy offer a 1.mm? or shit hks's 1.2 all day. saying in the desciption adds compression.. ovously but a heard a rumor of detination problems..? weird.. and wtf is a stopper gasket compared to a reguler.. lol thanks man oh and heres my NEW intake and valve covers. lol

[cre]

Originally Posted by livelaughslide

As far as oil pressure my guage never worked

Even if you're replacing the gauge you need to make sure the stock sensor is still in place and that the ECU is still getting a valid signal from it. Do not remove the stock sensor or disconnect it.

Originally Posted by livelaughslide

Well if stock is 1.3mm.. why does greddy offer a 1.mm? or shit hks's 1.2 all day. saying in the desciption adds compression.. ovously but a heard a rumor of detination problems..? weird.. and wtf is a stopper gasket compared to a reguler.. lol thanks man oh and heres my NEW intake and valve covers. lol

The stock is 1.37mm thick when compressed, measured before installation is obviously thicker.

You can use a thinner head gasket with lower compression pistons.

Look on HKS's website for the differences between "stopper" and "bead" gaskets.




Oh, and it looked like you guys were talking about not draining the oil!? Absolutely drain the oil. Once you finish the job and put the head back on you should go ahead and pour a couple quarts of extremely thin (and CHEAP) oil over the cams and allow it to run through and drain right back out to help clear out any debris; Heating the oil first should help too.

I've heard some folks talk about doing it with kerosene or acetone or similar and allow it a day or so so that the bulk can evaporate out; I can't advise you on this methodology as I haven't ever tried it.

After everything is reassembled, I recommend running the car up to normal operation temps, talking a drive around the block and then changing the oil and filter.

[livelaughslide]

yea i planned to do that as well. wow acetone?... crazy shit.. let it sit over night and when you drain to out your melted pistions will come out with it. haha. my oil is drained, i feel like i want everything to be legit on this car so no cutting corners. Oh, and the oil pressure sensor is/was hooked up when i started. but as far as my gauge, when you turn the car into the on postion it slowly spikes to the top, but once you start it, the gauge drops. weird..


I got one for ya!!!! I beleave these are the knock sensors. one was hooked up and the other wasnt btw this is telephone wire going to them.
i noticed it last night and damn near shit due to the fact my ka-t wouldnt even run with the knock sensor unplugged..


And look at the ecu, the wires from the knock sensor are spliced right into the ECU terribly!!!??? WTF? who ever did this makes me sick.



whatcha think guys?

[cre]

A rewire is a commonly needed thing with the knock sensors.... although you need to use shielded wire. I'd rewire those and use some RG-58 coax cable. This replaces the old wiring and adds a grounded shield to help reduce interference.

Writeup and detailed info:
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/knock.htm

Be very careful when working around the knock sensors, Toyota wants a LOT for new ones.

[livelaughslide]

damn man, thaks..

So youre like the forum guro? i noticed that your car is right hand drive, has the most cleanest ls motor, the m was a gift from god and the gauge cluster made me wet.

haha, so damn... how the Fuck did you get so noligable? You sir are incredibly brillant, either you smoke alot of crack or have a whats it called......life? hah. damn man mad props to you sir.