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Old 12-02-2009, 10:23 PM   #1
livelaughslide
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Angry Omg please help me

I Just did the plugs and wires on my supra, 7mtge, during which i found out that i had two stripped spark plug hole, YUP,.

And one of them were slopply replaced with a helicoil. it pulled right out with the plug.

I put two new helicoils in and plut AUTOLITE PLATNUIMS in with NGK wires, My car is barley running.

It has a solid miss, i could provide a video its terrible. i thinking the 7mgte hates platnums, some cars wont even run with them i hate em but its the only my parts store had.

The Wires Are Not Crossed in any way, the coil is grounded. all vacuum lines are hooked up. please i just bought new front mount, new ssqv and all kinds of other shit and god damn it i want my car back, can anyone help me out???
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Old 12-02-2009, 11:56 PM   #2
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just a shot in the dark, and probably gunna miss the whole dart board... but I know 7mgte's timing is regulated based off cam position, not a distributor... providing all the wires are linked with their appropriate cylinder... you might want to double check the timing and make sure that's good...

Actually, before you do that... can you confirm that you've gapped the plugs correctly? Just out of the box is a big uncertainty... you should be using a spark plug gap tool to get the right spacing in the spark plug.. I'm not sure on the specific specs, but if Cre sees this thread, perhaps he can help...

Hope it was one of those two... and good luck...
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:29 AM   #3
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Autolites suck ass in these cars. Check on-line, and order some good NGK Platinums that came with the car. Stay away from the iridium plugs. I heard they are not liked by these 7MGTEs. Also, be careful when checking the gap. Try not to put any pressure on the platinum tip, as they can break. Platinum is harder but more brittle than copper.
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:52 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krem View Post
7mgte's timing is regulated based off cam position, not a distributor.
Not quite... Ignition timing (aka spark advance) is controlled by a number of factors and is completely dependent on a cam position sensor. In the GTE the CPS is all there is as the ECU provides the spark through additional circuitry... in the GE there is still a CPS (it's in the base of the distributor and actually you can use a GE's distributor as a CPS in a GTE in an emergency ) and the ECU still regulates the spark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krem View Post
if Cre sees this thread, perhaps he can help...


Umm.... well, I might be able to actually. Do you have the part number for the plugs you installed? The listed replacement plugs for our car made by autolite have a shorter insulator (approx 1/8") and as a result often have misfire issues. I strongly recommend replacing the plugs with some of the specified NGKs. If you go with another brand compare them VERY closely to an OEM specified plug.


Did you retap for the new helicoils (eeek)? How did you keep the cylinder clean?




EDIT: also, I recommend replacing all of your plugs at the same time. Mismatched plugs can cause issues with diagnosing misfire problems and make it difficult to read the spark plugs for indications of engine problems and to put a time to the start of those problems.

Last edited by cre; 12-03-2009 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:36 PM   #5
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Default Holy crap thank you guys

for taking time out for me. I Just did the timing about a month ago..

it was really advanced, like 40-50 degrees when i got it. then i set it to 14..


I just checked it during this post.. the computer is advancing my timing to 35-40 degrees even with the jumper wire.. i cant even adjust it seeing that the cps is turned all the way.

I used the provided tap cre, smotherd it in greese to catch the shaving, i would go about 1/8, stop, clean the thread maker, re-greese it then go another 1/8.


I guess im gonna go to discount and get some reguler ass ngk's... and some more heli coils because i have a feeling these are gonna come out with the plug.

man am i nervous. some how drilling and tapping into my head dousnt sit right with me..? weird.

OH AND I HAVE A CODE, Its 51 witch could be tps..

As the car is idleing.. (trying to idle) I unplug it and nothing happens.. nothing at all. shouldnt there be a miss or stall out or somthing? i just replaced it 3 days ago but the new one was working great..

i just want my car back...
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:21 PM   #6
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A timing advance of that much is what the ECU will do in certain states, but it's definitely not where you want to set it. If the timing keeps wondering after being set it leads me to believe that you are either jumping the wrong terminals when setting it, your failure to fix the error codes first is biting you in the ass OR your timing belt is shot.

The timing is supposed to be set at 10?BTDC with the jumper in place. once the jumper is removed the timing is dynamic and controlled by the ECU.

Code 51 means either the TPS IDL switch isn't closing twhen the throttle is released or the A/C switch was turned "on" OR the A/C compressor signal wire has a short. Pretty easy to diagnose... of course you get the code if the TPS is unplugged... there's definitely no way the IDL switch will close if it's no even plugged in...

Check your TPS alignment: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?S=FI&P=101


Back to spark plugs: NGK Platinums are what Toyota receommends for the MKIII (it even came with them). Autolites work in a pinch (I'm running a set right now actually) but often people have issues. If you change the plugs and use Autolites and have problems... well... look at what you just worked on.

As for the helicoils, if they back out then you tapped too large for them or the surrounding material of the head had anealed or fatigued beyond servicablility. If they do back out again take the car to a GOOD shop and have them check if helicoils are even going to last. If they determine it is a valid option then have them replace them with timeserts: http://www.timesert.com/ They are far more reliable and much more robust.
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:06 AM   #7
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Unhappy

Cre, and everyone else i cant thank you enough for you help.

But now i loud knock at the top of my combustion chamber has appeared after putting in the new non platnum plugs in.

Leads me to beleave a pieace of the heli coil has fallen through the spark plug hole and is wedged between the cynlender wall and pistion.

So before this repair gets anymore expensive its time to pull the head.

Im gonna post a new thread on how to pull the head with the motor still in the car. or maybe if i absolutly have to pull the motor out, do i pull it out with the tranny?


If you guys could please help me out because now im 2 seconds away from calling the fucking scrap yard.

it was literly one thing after another, and i love my 7m. thanks everyone..
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:03 AM   #8
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Trying to helicoil the head with it still on was foolish at best... BUT, a few small twists of aluminum aren't going to cause a loud knock... it'll shred the cylinder wall and chew up valves. A loud knock or pop could be the result of a sticking valve or a leak around one of the spark plugs where the helicoil didn't seal well or is leaking.

Exactly how bad is the noise?

If some shrapnel did score the cylinder wall you're going to have to pull the engine.

Do you have something against platinum spark plugs?

What make and model plugs did you install?

Pulling the engine with the transmission attached is a little more difficult, but I (and many others) think it's easier than trying to line the engine and transmission up when reinstalling if you separated them.

Right now, I would pull the plugs back out and inspect the helicoils; Then I'd check the spark plugs for damage or cracked insulators; Then check the spark plug wires.



Sorry, you're having such a terrible time with it... mine was a horrible hell when I got it. I bought mine for $300... well, my friend bought it from a used car dealership for $300... that's what the scrap yard was going to pay them. Yup, they were going to scrap it... he probably should have let them. I have more money than I want to think about sunk into this car now and I'm sure I couldn't sell it for more than $5000.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:21 AM   #9
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Default holy crap.

thats what i said?a small puieace of aluminum couldnt develope a noise such as this.. and Its is a deepish very loud tick, i sprayed around the plugs with soapy water and no leak as the car ran, i pulled the plugs to see any damage, none. as far as the heli coils they looked ehh okay.

what is the chance of a valve sticking as soon as i change my plugs and i started the car 3 hours prior with no knock, take out the autolite platnums 5503's and put in cheapo oem champions. ( just temperary) ?? i doubt it...

when i stated the car the miss was pretty much gone (YAY!) then the second it started came a loud knock deffinitly from the top of the head.(damnnnn)

The heli coils are steel, and a good chunk could have broken off.. im gonna find out tomarrow..

ill run it one last time, becuase god damn it my supra wasnt some pieace. its damn near flawless and i worked my ass off for it.

and now, literlly now all my new parts such as huge front mount, profec ii boost controler and all kinds of shit are coming in the mail and well now i gotta pull my head?

God damn it! im so sick of this man, i cant thank you guys enough but shit this is geting old.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:52 AM   #10
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Okay.... time to pick a thread and stick with it...

My response:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-my-mkiii.html
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