checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

[cvbikeguy]

ok just kidding. i got pretty sick last night. also i wanted the RTV to sit a little before i started. soooo im gonna start it up pretty soon today.

so i figure i turn it on.

turn it off

check for leaks

turn it on

check timing

then turn it on and off a few times reaching higher rpm each time?

change oil after 500 miles or so?

[oregonjoe]

Good luck!

Everyone has their own opinion on this.

I started mine, ran for 30 sec to 1 minute then shut off to check for leaks

Then restart and run to check timing avout 5 minutes. Really can't get a good timing check till the engine is fully warmed up and the thermostat opens up at which time the ECM has backed off the idle control motor and engine pulling max vacuum. At this point you listen for vacuum leaks (hissing sound) which will also cause the engine to loop at idel (if ait can hold idle)

Only after the engine will idle smooth after full warm up do I rev anything or drive it.

When thermostat opens up the engine RPM will drop from 1500 to about 1000

Turn off and check OIl to be sure no water is getting in from head job.

NOW is the time to actually drive it. I use short burst to 3000 from dead stop and coast to let engine cool down between busts (30 sec each) Its a fun time because a rebuilt engine will have some pep. The graddluy increase time getting to 3000 in burst with cool down inbetween. I only ran for 5 minutes at atime for first few runs with cool down so cylinders did not get too hot before rings got a chance to seat (thrich is to keep oil from glazing to walls)

Then take it on short drives with lots of dead stop to 4000 as fast as it can. You are trying to load the crank, valves and rings so they get through full travel during bearkin.

Thats how I do it - worked for me several times. Others baby it for 5000 miles. - To each his own.

[cvbikeguy]

So attempt no. 4 has failed. Manifold still leaks in the same spot.

Did I not put enough rtv or something? Also a couple injectors are leaking. They are properly placed and everything.

This car, is cursed

[oregonjoe]

where exactly is it leaking - diagram?

Does the engine start? or is leaking bad while cranking?

Really don't need much RTV at all - just a thin film - so it must be a bad fit, crack, missing bolt, bad nipple fitting, bad or cracked hose?

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

where exactly is it leaking - diagram?

Does the engine start? or is leaking bad while cranking?

Really don't need much RTV at all - just a thin film - so it must be a bad fit, crack, missing bolt, bad nipple fitting, bad or cracked hose?

sorry i couldnt find a diagram but its underneath the intake runner exactly behind where the IAC hose is connected. i used a good bit of rtv and let it sit over night. so i dont know what the problem could be besides it being cracked. all the bolts are in and tightened too.

also my dad has informed me that he accidently stepped on my injectors as he was walking around the garage.

[cvbikeguy]

not quiting yet....

on the bright side im learning a whole lot about cars.....

still dont know much

so it turns out one a couple of the grommets on the injectors were leaking. the thing is i cant get the factory ones off. they spin but dont like off. im afraid to put too much pressure and break something else. also theres no crack on the intake runner and the hose nipple looks fine. so im buying another gasket and will try again tomorrow hopefully. and tool to get these grommets off? thanks

[cvbikeguy]

just as an update to what i replaced.

spark plugs
pretty much all the hoses
water pump
fan clutch
radiator
new head
machined block
rebuild kit

[cre]

Me, I'm wasteful after big jobs like this. I run the car up to normal operating temps at idle while searching in a frantic and paranoid manner (frantic is key) for any leaks, sparks, weird green critters chewing on wires and so on.

Then I'll take the car for a short drive, about 5 miles, head home and inspect further.

No leaks? Then I'll go for a 20 mile drive. When I come home I'll look again for signs of trouble and let the car cool. After the car has cooled I replace the oil filter and change the oil.... hope you used cheap oil... And top off the coolant.

For the next few hundred miles (500-600) I'll change the filter one or two more times (not the oil), top the oil off and keep a VERY close eye on coolant and oil levels and watch for signs of contamination.

After five or six hundred miles I'll change oil and filter again and return thereafter to my regular maintenance schedule. I may change the coolant at this point... depends on how clean I think I was and if the cooling system as a filter or not.



Thanks Joe, I keep forgetting he's also breaking everything in. I agree with your methodology for the break in side of things.