checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

[cre]

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

i couldnt sleep at all. i felt so defeated that i couldnt find that stupid nipple. tossed and turned.

i had to look again

i stare at the car for a sec, not even reaching in.

took a breath....

reached in

within a second i found myself touching the nipple.

WTF

Thought I was f*&^ing with you? Heh.

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

oh one question. how much pressure goes through the coolant areas? heres a pic.

I'm pretty sure the stock radiator cap is SUPPOSED to open at 13psi. I recomend testing them periodically, even new ones can be way off.

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

feel like i still dont know anything about cars...... cause i dont.

Well, at least it'll keep you cautious and you know a lot more now than you did at the beginning!

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

1. so not worth all this effort on a N/A
2. label more, take better pics
3. never do this to an N/A
4. dont break sh*t
5. just get a turbo engine and rebuild that
6. get a punching bag
7. your lucky after going through this that you arent in danger of substance abuse.

1. sure it's worth it... peace of mind? Worth a fortune to me. Besides, it was a great lesson. (you DID remember to chase the bolt holes in the block with a tap... right?)
2. plastic baggies, masking tape and a marker.
3. why the hell not?'
4. agreed!
5. yeah, but if you need a car in the interim shouldn't it be running?
6. mmmmkay, whatever you need.... I needed a case of Kleenex.
7. Nah, there's enough chemicals floating around while doing this job that it'd make the drugs seem week and not worth the time.

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

so yea. waste of money, yes. waste of effort, yes. me being a newb and actually learning something, maybe. this car may not be fast of a turbo but i really cant wait to drive it. sure as hell faster than my 4 runner and even though its wingless, the body style of these supras are f'ing amazing.

No and no. It may be a bit faster, it's not uncommon to find that we've fixed a number of other problems on the way.... won't be more powerful than stock, but you might be surprised to find it was running like ass before; Happens often.


What's wrong with wingless? The OEM wing is just a "make pretty" part, no major effect on the vehicle's aerodynamics.

[cvbikeguy]

chase the bolts in the block with a tap? huh? what?

and yea i like the wing. pretty is always fun hahahahahaha............

[cvbikeguy]

ok so im about to go to kragen to get that last hose. feels like Christmas.

anyone have any start-up tips that they have personally used after a rebuild. or if you just know for sure whats good to do. thank you

[cvbikeguy]

tried to start the car. turns over but no fire. found gas gushing out of the fuel rail in the rear. turns out i have the wrong washer on it. now were searching to find something to fit the circular union. obvious car will not start without pressure for the fuel rail right?

[oregonjoe]

When I started mine after the rebuild - I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine to get oil pumped into all the berings. The OIL gauge will not move while cranking. It is a really a good idea to remove the plugs but I know that is hard to do.

Then put fuse back in and key on to be sure check engine light goes off while crank.

I used straight 30 weight OIL non detergent for break-in

Once engine fired - quickly turn off to check for coolant and fuel leaks. I know after all the work you want to fire it up and hard rev but don't do that. It takes a while for that 30 weight oil to get heated up so it can get back into the dry berings.

The real trick is to very gradually heat it up. So start and idle for a minute. Then Turn off. Wait for 5 minutes and repeat several times till you start to smell the new paint on the engine. Then idel long enough for the T-Stat to open to check for more leaks.

Most important - DO NOT IDLE FOR LONG IN THE GARAGE. You reallay want to load up rings by driving in shory hard burst so the OIL doen not glaze onto the cylinder walls. Long idles do not push the rings against the cylinders to scrape the oil off before it glazes the walls.

Let us know if you still have questions - good luck

[cvbikeguy]

I know I should know this but. Where's the fuel pump fuse? And what do you mean pull the plugs. Thanks for your help. You were my main thread in this build I was trying to follow

[cvbikeguy]

found a stray wire



thoughts? i have no idea what it is. its next to the fuse box

[oregonjoe]

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

I know I should know this but. Where's the fuel pump fuse? And what do you mean pull the plugs. Thanks for your help. You were my main thread in this build I was trying to follow

Its the EFI Fuse ITs marked on the lib of the fuse box.

As to the connector - I can't tell from the photo its not focused enough for me to see. How many terminals does it have? 3? Are they in a T pattern?

I can go look under the hood on mine to see.

[oregonjoe]

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

I know I should know this but. Where's the fuel pump fuse? And what do you mean pull the plugs. Thanks for your help. You were my main thread in this build I was trying to follow

Remove the spark plugs so you can crank without compression - allows oil to pump through out the engine without draining your battery. Better way to get it up to the CAMs. Most people don't do this because its too hard to get all the plugs out.