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Old 11-29-2009, 04:56 PM   #51
MA70-3.0GT
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OUCH, melted pistons too. Actually from the initial pic of the block I was going to say it looked like the HG was dropping water into 1,2 & maybe 3 from the colours but now I see the melting it's probably just cooked white through running way lean/hot &/or pre-ignition (pinging I think it's known as in the U.S?)

Definitely a full stripdown job here, you'll be lucky if the bores aren't damaged from the meltdown & if it's got really hot the head & block may be warped.

I can't remember now, was the car running when you bought it/until you stripped it? Must have been screaming for mercy for a while... Sorry to see it's that nasty & damn I hope there's nothing like that waiting in my motor!

EDIT-: OK I've reviewed the post & it WAS running when you bought it. How oh how was this thing not clacking & banging & rattling to high hell, not to mention running on 3 or 4? Best of luck with the rebuild, I think if I found that I'd just find another engine...
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Last edited by MA70-3.0GT; 11-29-2009 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:37 PM   #52
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yea strangly there was no noise or anything that made me curious aout the reliability of the car. and yea it ran fine for only having 4 pistons running. lol in fast i thought it was pretty fast too... i wonder if im gonna feel alot more power ofter this rebuild.

well the damage isnt bad at all and the rebuild kit that im getting has pistons included so it shouldnt be bad at all. overall costs of the shop are 565!!.

sweeeeeet.

so yea ill put some pics up soon. were about to get the hoist to lift this bad boy out. good thing i got temporarily laid off......
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:45 AM   #53
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Good god.... if that sad engine left you feeling that the 3500lbs slab it was dragging around was fast... you might want to reconsider the rebuild and just swap in a nice rebuilt 4 cylinder from a Celica or something... I don't know if you'll be able to cope with much more.

No sounds... could be because it had finally finished coughing up chunks of lung and moved on the whole dying quietly stage. That thing was hurting... I'll be amazed if a complete rebuild isn't required (including boring the cylinders and polishing the crank).

You already got the quote? $565 for what?
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:49 AM   #54
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Hahaha yea I might as well. I can't wait to drive it once its done.

The quote was for the valves, polish, shaving the head, and bored
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:53 AM   #55
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And you're doing all the assembly and disassembly I presume? If you're going to a metal head gasket find out what the finest RA they can produce is. Also make sure they machine the block WITH the rear timing belt plate in place!
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:01 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
And you're doing all the assembly and disassembly I presume? If you're going to a metal head gasket find out what the finest RA they can produce is. Also make sure they machine the block WITH the rear timing belt plate in place!
Yes I'm doing everything myself. I shouldn't have to go to a MHG unless I'm hoping to get 600+ HP out of this right? Am I fine just getting the factory? And yes I will definatly have the plate on if the machine it. Already read Ihatehacks rebuild thread and did you see my link on that rebuild kit on ebay? Looks good right? Thanks for your input cre. Your a lifesaver
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Old 12-01-2009, 04:37 PM   #57
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hey just wondering, which bolts are best for hoisting out the engine?
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:00 AM   #58
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not blown


not blown.....


not blown................
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...5796a3350d.jpg

i kinda thought it was funny that i had all the symptoms of a BHG but i really didnt have one. after the engine already had 245,xxx miles..... but.......



it looks like the engine was rebuilt at one time.

Clea engine bay, fairly clean parts.
bolts missing in various places (someone wasnt very organized)
very few bolts at the right torque setting
cross hatched cylinders.

WTF then why did the cylinders blow? im wondering the the heck this guy did wrong to make this thing crap out. maybe it was cause of the freeze plug, radiator, and leaking water pump. too much heat in the engine????? im lost....

but anyways we got the engine out and are proceeding with the rebuild...

i dont think my girl trusts me to hoist out an engine.....


hoisting time.....


***tip**** to not waste time...... have all bolts disconnected from the transmission. including the ones on each side of the tranny that are REALLY hard to see. and remove flywheel from pressure plate. might save you a few ours instead of looking like an idiot......

ok also. when getting that flywheel off. i dunno about you guys but a litle loving with electric dewalt impact got it off with no problems


i really hope i have time to clean the engine bay....


i hate you mr. freeze plug


oh an in case your a newb like me and your reading this wondering why i had to use an impact for these little bolts? well as im torquing the bolts it keeps turning the crankshaft. Solution? turn the bolts faster than the crankshaft can turn. muahahahhahahahahaha......


alright so tonight or tomorrow i will be taking off the crankshaft and organizing all my bolts (so i can head to the shop and buy the missing ones...grrrr). should be taking it to the shop tomorrow. i guess i should be buying new hoses and such soon. any recommendations? and any recommendations for a radiator? i kinda want something more efficient but not too much more expensive than factory. thanks for all of your help and input for those that have responded. its sad i only got to drive this beast for one day but hey, i cant wait toll this is all done. im going for a longgggggg drive.
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:16 AM   #59
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***tip***

so i know almost everyone knows this trick but i had to search a little to find it so i hope this helps anyone trying to do this.


if your having trouble getting that big fat pully off, stick a flat bar inside the whole where the starter is and wedge it in the flywheel. tada!!! now you can get that dang bolt off.

more info at..... http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-w-pics-2.html

Well I finally got the crank bolt off. To anyone that wants to know how to do it I will tell you. First though, I would like to say what did not do it. 5 different impact guns-nope. Car in gear, ebrake on, someone standing on the brakes-nope. Did not get the chance to use the starter bump method. This is what works and what will work every single time-crowbar in the flywheel through the starter hole. Worked so good I think Im going to patent that procedure. Walked the crank pulley off with 2 flathead screw drivers. Had timing belt off in less than 5 minutes after that. I was messing with this crank bolt for 4 days, but now that its off the head is ready to be lifted off. I just don't have someone to help me lift it. I can do it myself, I bench over 205lbs atm, I just don't want to risk banging it into something like the radiator support or the fender. Loosened head bolts in the order shown in the TSRM and did it in 3 passes. Did not need the SST for the head bolts, a NAPA 10mm allen head socket worked just fine for $4.65. Will have pictures in 2 hours.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

-IHateHacks

Last edited by cvbikeguy; 12-02-2009 at 03:17 AM. Reason: forgot some info
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:24 AM   #60
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hey Cre,

do you know alot about timing? i was told i should time my vehicle for my driving style while its in this stage. is there a way to do that without getting adjustable cams?
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