Oil PSI
 

After my rebuild the OIL PSI did not read at all while cranking and took about a 30 seconds after startup to register. Should come right up after that.

If car starts, runs rough, and lacks power - it is ign timing or valve timing.

Car should warm up so ECM dosn't choke down the IAC before you do final timing adjustment. Just keep the car running via throttle till warmed up and then check timing with light on crank.

Smoke
 

Smoke out exhaust is ok at start. Lots of smoke in engine bay may need some attention as every thing should be sealed off. Any residue on exhaust pipe will really smoke a lot.


DOes car run by its self at idle?? Or do you need to keep on the throttle?

Have you tried to pay with he distrubutor by rotating to get faster idle? As you rotate slightly idle should smooth out - really need to a light on it thought to get it right.

yea it smokes at the exhaust pipe. its an odd smell. not cooland and not oil.

also we played with the dist. a bit to get it to idle by itself but my dad says he has a timing light. not surprised if its brand new. he has ever tool. perfectly new. never used :dunno:

man i cant believe this might be it. i might actually be able to drive this beast

the smoke is starting to get more excessive. the fuel gauge is still not responding even after i checked the sensor. still barely budges when i put it in gear. kinda smells like oil. oh yea i have leaks around the cam covers.

any other reason why there wouldnt be oil pressure. and i think my heater hose nut/union behind the engine is leaking too. f me

When you say "smoke around the exhaust pipe" are you referring to smoke coming out of the muffler or smoke like something's burning on the exhaust manifold in the engine bay?

Did you follow the TSRM's instructions while doing this whole project?

Stop worrying about driving it right now... you need to get all the little kinks worked out. Is it idling steadily? Have you checked the wire running to the oil pressure sender? If the wire running to the oil pressure sender is connected securely you need to stop running the engine and look for the source of the problem. If the pump isn't actually moving oil for some reason you're going to kill the engine pointlessly. Did you apply RTV where the cam cover goes up over the #1 cam cap? How's the ignition timing look? Any diagnostic codes? If so, post them here (but don't give them much creed at the moment) clear them then check after the next time you run the car for a few minutes.

Check your oil level!

Pressure
 

You really need oil pressure - or else....

My trick is to ground the lead from the sender to see if the gauge moves to full scale - then you know gauge is OK.

If you have Oil leaking from valve covers then you must have pressure as pump goes all the way to the cam lifter bay - so probably OK.

The valve covers need to be torqued down and RTV on each end at the joints.

BIG QUESTION STILL IS - does the engine run OK at idle with no throttle???


There can all sorts of reasons for smoke out tail pipe. White smoke is fuel - if you put your hand in the smoke is it wet or oily? Wet smoke is fuel. oily, well you know.. Oil leak in exhaust is dark and smelly. However its pretty hard to get oil in exhaust or burn oil unless rings were put in wrong or valuve seals are leaking bad.

You have been running engine for short while so not too likely for damage yet till you isolate the problem.

When I did my rebuild - there really wasn't much smoke at all after the first few minutes.

No oil pressure on gauge is suspect but oil leak around valve covers should mean oil is pumped all the way up there.

I guess you could pull the oil filter to see if its dry or not as a mind check. Easy enough to do.

I too - worried about the oil pressure gauge on start up - but it really should read some pressure after about 30 seconds.

DOES ENGINE IDLE OK ?????

Just started it up again. Idled at 2,000 then died to 1,000 the got to 700 the jumped to 1,500. Havnt gottent to try the timing yet. Dad can't find his timing light

Oil smoke
 

Another thought - What type of oil did you use??

Break-in oil should be heavy weight non detergent single grade. Like WE30.

Because rings and breaing surfaces need time to seal - light waight oils will get past them really easy and burn in cylinders toll things seat up.

If you used 10W40 oil - it may be too light and just burn up. Also not good for seating new rings.

However - all the issues on oil grages and smoke should not really effect the engine idle or power unless something else is wrong.

The real key is does engine run smooth at idle. Because in order to run smooth at idle it must have good fuel and spark in each cylinder and good timing.

If rough at idle then you check timing, spark, and fuel..

For timing, use light,

For spark, pull wire from distrib and notice any difference.

For fuel, pull plug and look at color of tips.

Plugs will tell you if you are burnung oil, no spark, or no fuel.

Timming?
 

How sure are you the valve timming is correct??

I'd pull the upper timing cover (the one that covers the the 2 sprockets) and recheck the marks on both sprockets are align with cover marks and with crank at TDC. (Just need to pull back engough to see marks)

Easy enough to do and lets you sleep at night.

Anyway - now its time to watch the 49er game!