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#1 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Toyota uses a red coolant that you can get from the dealership. It cools better and generally provides superior dielectric insulation. It is more expensive, but you only need a gallon... so it's no biggie. If the coolant system had any other type of coolant in it previously you MUST thoroughly flush the coolant system before returning to the red coolant. Some types of coolants are incompatible and will emulsify (thicken) when mixed.... don't want to add any more sludge to the system.
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#2 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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Hope it goes well & the sludge was just mixed coolant. As to the vibration, it might just be a wheel out of balance (although in my experience this tends to be from 55mph to 70mph usually). Could also be a worn engine/gearbox mounting or propshaft bearing...
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! ![]() |
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#3 |
Stock
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tucson/Phoenix
Posts: 12
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thank you all for the advise. i REALLY hope its mixed coolant sludge too. I am gonna take a look at the prop shaft bearing since it is coming from the WHOLE back of the car. it isnt jsut one wheel. that should be easy enough to replace.
i emptied the resevior tank for the coolant today and it didnt look like it had oil in it just a lot of sludge and debris. so i dont THINK its a HG but we will see. compression test tomorrow as well! hope all goes well! |
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#4 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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Best of luck with the comp. test, do you know anyone in the motor trade who could do the "sniff test" with an exhaust gas analyser in the rad top? Either that or a chemical "block test" would also be worth doing if possible...
150, 150, 150, 150, 150, 150... here's hoping... ![]() Oh, and another thing to look out for at the back end is brake disc (or handbrake drum) warpage or sticking. Although if it was this you'd likely feel a pulse through the brake pedal on braking (or the handbrake lever, if applied just enough to slow the car while moving at about 30mph)
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! ![]() Last edited by MA70-3.0GT; 11-22-2009 at 05:08 PM. Reason: brakespiel... |
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#5 |
Stock
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tucson/Phoenix
Posts: 12
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no the vibration only happens when i am accelerating, and it is really bad. i looked at the cvs, and they seem to be fine no warpage or bending or anything. its starting to get really bad though, like EVERYTHING vibrates no matter what gear or speed... VERY VERY annoying. so i am thinking it is that prop shaft bearing like dieing or somthing... please let me know if you have more thoughts!
i do not actually know anyone with any equipment like you were listing above. sucks. oh and my exhaust is just kind of hanging there after the first muffler... anyone has stock exhaust they are trying to get rid of let me knoW! |
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#6 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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There could well be your vibration, that exhaust. I've had a few cars where after fitting a new 'zorst the pipes have been a bit close to the tunnel & touched on acceleration creating a huge noise & vibration through the floor of the car. Now you've mentioned you have that loose it's first job. (at least try and secure it with old bungees or something so it can't hit the body & test it again.)
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! ![]() |
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#7 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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I missed the vibration issue before... There are several possibilities but the list gets smaller when you say that it is speed and not gear specific.
The first thing I would check is (as MA suggested) the wheels, have them balanced and checked to make sure the wheels aren't warped. Get the alignment checked too. Even if the car goes straight it doesn't mean everything is aligned well. Next, check the carrier bearing in the canter of the drive shaft for excessive play... I don't what's acceptable play in this bearing, mine had over 1/2" of play so I completely ditched it and got a one piece drive shaft. The carrier bearing seems to be one of the more common causes of speed related vibration. If this is fine try to see if there's much play in the output shaft of the transmission (a hard to test this conclusively with the transmission still assembled, but it's worth trying to check). Then, check for play in all of the suspension and steering related ball joints and check all the other suspension bushings. |
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#8 |
Stock
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tucson/Phoenix
Posts: 12
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ALL IS WELL!
i replaced the center drive shaft and got another differential... I had an LSD in a non turbo supra wich means someone put it there and didnt know what the hell they were doing. it was missing shims and the u joint had like a inch of play. I FIXED IT OMG YAY! ![]() ![]() |
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