used hks head gasket? is it ok?

jdmmilhouse · 11-10-2009, 06:09 AM

ok i just picked up a couple of used parts for my 7mgte, one of which is a slightly used hks gasket and arp studs ,is it ok to reuse them?

cre · 11-10-2009, 06:56 PM

MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets are reusable within reason.

Here's what I've learned from others on this subject... I've never had to pull one or reuse one, myself. When they're removed you need to be very gentle and you need to store them pressed flat and very well protected from ANYTHING which could scratch the surface. When you reapply it you need to use a high quality HG sealers such as Hylomar Blue.... before applying that though you need to make sure all of any original coating has been cleaned off.

What I don't know is if you need to strip the factory coating off the gasket regardless of the shape it's in or if it's safe to just leave on and forego the use of additional sealants. Do NOT try to put a different sealant on top of the factory sealant!

Also, you need to be sure that the deck of the block and the head are COMPLETELY FLAT and VERY smooth... This almost always means you're going to have to pull the engine, tear it doen and get it to the machine shop for resurfacing and lapping. If it's the stopper model, you've got the pickiest MLS HG there is when it comes to mating surfaces... it's probably the best, but getting everything else in shape for it to do its job well and for a long time can be a pain (just going off of all that I've read from other in the past on this).

jdmmilhouse · 11-11-2009, 07:45 PM

it looks in decent shape....as far as a sealant, can i use copper hg seant? i might have to change the hg soon because my coolant resevour is empty and my heat goes from cool to hot without adjusting the temp....but the car isnt overheating

cre · 11-12-2009, 06:54 AM

The heater going out could be due to you purging enough coolant that air is intermittently filling enough of the heater core to prevent it from effectively warming the air... could also be that the heater control valve's VSV is going out and the heater core is being bypassed intermittently. I posted some information about this recently, try searching for it. If you keep loosing coolant, well... there are a couple possibilities, look at some of the threads others have posted regarding coolant loss or overheating, the items you need to diagnose will be the same.

Copper sealants are generally ok. Most of the professional builders I know will only use Hylomar or one or two others which I never can remember. A lot of places don't carry any of the higher grade stuff due to the low sales due to the higher price... and the higher grade stuff can be a little trickier to apply in the recommended fashion. Hylomar and Dri-seal (or something like that, BMW uses it) say to spray EACH mating surface with a single thin coat, allow 4 minutes to set, assemble, allow another 4 to 5 minutes and then toque down. So, this means you need to stuff paper towels into the cylinders and tape off the valves and their bore and spray: the bottom of the head, both sides of the HG and the block deck. Makes for an unbeatable bond, but if you don't follow directions... well, you've got it comming. Of course, you're "supposed" to do that with copper HG spray too. :P If you find someone complaining about a higher grade sealant not sealing ask them how they applied it.

Don't forget that you need to thoroughly clean off any factory sealant before adding a different sealant. You should search Google for proper care before installing it though... just be aware that there is a LOT of bad info out there too; If you are unsure ask and I or someone else will see if we can find the answer.

jdmmilhouse · 11-13-2009, 01:07 AM

all your help is greatly appreciated! i will keep all this in mind for when the time comes.... thanx

two-step-n · 11-13-2009, 06:55 AM

yeah clean each layer you can take them apart! clean all 3 layers very good brake cleaner works great! then spry the copper on each layer! but you should just get a new one!

supranutz · 11-15-2009, 09:21 PM

is it really worth having to tear down the top end again if it deosnt work

i know the time i spend doing a top end is worth a hell of a lot more to me than the cost of a new head gasket

cre · 11-16-2009, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supranutz

is it really worth having to tear down the top end again if it deosnt work

i know the time i spend doing a top end is worth a hell of a lot more to me than the cost of a new head gasket

I agree, they're not all that expensive.... BTW, you did get your head and block machined right? It has to be EXTREMELY smooth for a MHG and even moreso if you're using a HKS Stopper as opposed to their other MHG.

jdmmilhouse · 11-16-2009, 06:37 AM

what's the difference?

two-step-n · 11-17-2009, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supranutz

is it really worth having to tear down the top end again if it deosnt work

i know the time i spend doing a top end is worth a hell of a lot more to me than the cost of a new head gasket

it would cost more then a head gasket if you do the work your self

11-10-2009, 06:09 AM	#1
jdmmilhouse Stock Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 28	used hks head gasket? is it ok? ok i just picked up a couple of used parts for my 7mgte, one of which is a slightly used hks gasket and arp studs ,is it ok to reuse them?

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11-10-2009, 06:56 PM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets are reusable within reason. Here's what I've learned from others on this subject... I've never had to pull one or reuse one, myself. When they're removed you need to be very gentle and you need to store them pressed flat and very well protected from ANYTHING which could scratch the surface. When you reapply it you need to use a high quality HG sealers such as Hylomar Blue.... before applying that though you need to make sure all of any original coating has been cleaned off. What I don't know is if you need to strip the factory coating off the gasket regardless of the shape it's in or if it's safe to just leave on and forego the use of additional sealants. Do NOT try to put a different sealant on top of the factory sealant! Also, you need to be sure that the deck of the block and the head are COMPLETELY FLAT and VERY smooth... This almost always means you're going to have to pull the engine, tear it doen and get it to the machine shop for resurfacing and lapping. If it's the stopper model, you've got the pickiest MLS HG there is when it comes to mating surfaces... it's probably the best, but getting everything else in shape for it to do its job well and for a long time can be a pain (just going off of all that I've read from other in the past on this).

11-11-2009, 07:45 PM	#3
jdmmilhouse Stock Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 28	it looks in decent shape....as far as a sealant, can i use copper hg seant? i might have to change the hg soon because my coolant resevour is empty and my heat goes from cool to hot without adjusting the temp....but the car isnt overheating

11-12-2009, 06:54 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The heater going out could be due to you purging enough coolant that air is intermittently filling enough of the heater core to prevent it from effectively warming the air... could also be that the heater control valve's VSV is going out and the heater core is being bypassed intermittently. I posted some information about this recently, try searching for it. If you keep loosing coolant, well... there are a couple possibilities, look at some of the threads others have posted regarding coolant loss or overheating, the items you need to diagnose will be the same. Copper sealants are generally ok. Most of the professional builders I know will only use Hylomar or one or two others which I never can remember. A lot of places don't carry any of the higher grade stuff due to the low sales due to the higher price... and the higher grade stuff can be a little trickier to apply in the recommended fashion. Hylomar and Dri-seal (or something like that, BMW uses it) say to spray EACH mating surface with a single thin coat, allow 4 minutes to set, assemble, allow another 4 to 5 minutes and then toque down. So, this means you need to stuff paper towels into the cylinders and tape off the valves and their bore and spray: the bottom of the head, both sides of the HG and the block deck. Makes for an unbeatable bond, but if you don't follow directions... well, you've got it comming. Of course, you're "supposed" to do that with copper HG spray too. :P If you find someone complaining about a higher grade sealant not sealing ask them how they applied it. Don't forget that you need to thoroughly clean off any factory sealant before adding a different sealant. You should search Google for proper care before installing it though... just be aware that there is a LOT of bad info out there too; If you are unsure ask and I or someone else will see if we can find the answer.

11-13-2009, 01:07 AM	#5
jdmmilhouse Stock Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 28	all your help is greatly appreciated! i will keep all this in mind for when the time comes.... thanx

11-13-2009, 06:55 AM	#6
two-step-n 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: mesa az Posts: 51	yeah clean each layer you can take them apart! clean all 3 layers very good brake cleaner works great! then spry the copper on each layer! but you should just get a new one!

11-15-2009, 09:21 PM	#7
supranutz Stock Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: texas Posts: 13	is it really worth having to tear down the top end again if it deosnt work i know the time i spend doing a top end is worth a hell of a lot more to me than the cost of a new head gasket

11-16-2009, 06:37 AM	#9
jdmmilhouse Stock Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 28	what's the difference?