Putting JDM engine in!!! :D

[89suprat]

wow thanks for the info, just a little question so i understand on my part(i'm a little slow) so when i get a better pic to show you what i have, does the bvsv simply mount ontop of this coolant sensor? as my friends supra does not have this electrical sensor but does have the bvsv. and for the fortunate part he's got 4 parts cars available to me so that should not be a problem getting it. good news on the turbo conversion then i'll post pics of my setup but the turbo is completely gutted with the exhaust external housing left, using the big clamp with a steel plate i managed to block if off perfectly coolant still flows, inlet to outlet now and as for oil i guess i need a pretty thick blockoff plate? i'm using the thickness of two road signs worth of metal(don't have a tape measure) would it also be advisable to keep the revs down whille driving or can the ecu account for timing and spark considering there is no more boost involved?

[cre]

There is no electrical sensor in that location... p e r i o d. K?

Get a decent photo of all the sensors on that thermostat tower (both sides) and we'll see if we can't figure out what they were thinking and what needs to be fixed.

To you have any aftermarket gauges or a turbo timer with a temp sensor?

With the block off plate you want something at least 1/8" (3mm) thick, preferably 1/4" thick. Take the Oil line in to a parts store and look among the Chevy block off plates.. there should be something close enough; You may need to oval out the holes a bit to get it over the studs on your engine, but it'll work fine. USE A GASKET!!!!

When you press the gas pedal more than 70% the ECU will go into closed loop... it's not reading the O2 sensor at this point and is going to be pretty rich. It's still measuring airflow though, so for the most part it should be alright. I'd avoid pounding on it too much though. If you run rich too much you'll foul the O2 sensor and foul and clog the cat. You may see engine error codes though which may throw you into "limp mode" due to the unexpected airflow drop at certain throttle levels and RPMs. Codes 25, 26 and 34 are the ones to watch for if the car suddenly stops responding beyond 2500 - 3000RPM and runs richer than hell. In this case reset the ECU (by pulling the EFI fuse for 10 seconds) and start driving like a granny.

[dannydavi]

Great discussion, thanks guys. A side note whatever car they took this out of also had a different oil pan :s cause i got the engine in and that shit wouldnt fit, took it back out and realized the pans were totally different, so finally got the old pump and pan on and dropped it in today, have all the transmission and drive shaft yada hooked up, wondering what the torque specs are for the engine mounts?? i have the cygnus link and i have it on pdf but cant find what the torque specs are for that, dont know how much it matters i'm thinking just make pretty tight.. but if there is a spec to abide by, anyone know it?

[cre]

If the oil pan and pickup were off center then they're from a Cressida. I thought I covered that... yup, see post #3.

Try this for the torque specs... I'll see if I have anything else saved on my hard drive.

[dannydavi]

Ok so hooked up the whole wiring harness to there designated locations. Now doing the vacuum hoses under the intake manifold area... anyone got some diagrams of all this stuff? got the EC3 diagram from cygnus already just wondering if there is anything else or perhaps a real image of where they go perhaps, any help is appreciated thanks.

[dannydavi]

might be satisfied with the hoses for now, but do post an image of what it looks like under your intake if you get a chance. Ok now on the exhaust side, there is a heater hose coming off the block, looking from the passenger side to the far left/ behind the exhaust manifold, where does this heater hose go? On my old engine it is just plugged, but i'm the one that plugged it when it was leaking i think. Now cant remember where it goes. Any help is appreciated, can get pics if needed.

[cre]

Can't help with pics, my car is a GE+T. You can look at the EPC for the heater hose routing... the coolant hard pipes on JDM MKIIIs (it may have just been a Cressida thing, never got confirmation on that) was different than on the USDM engines, so you may have to get creative.

[strike]Here's the EPC page:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=2[/strike]



EDIT: whoops, I forgot you're not running a GTE... it's freezing and snowy as... well, a VERY cold, snowy place... outside right now, so no help with pics. As for the coolant hose routing: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1603&P=1 You'll see there that one of the ports on the passenger side is capped.

NOTE: NEVER cap a coolant or oil line if you're deleting it unless you're POSITIVE it is safe to cap. Many hoses which see to serve no purpose are there for a reason... if it was safe to just cap them, Toyota probably would have... for example, there's a hose on the side of the thermostat housing on the N/A, it's a pressure relief; Without it the thermostat could fail to often. Other hoses like this on other vehicles serve as anti-cavation devices (prevents erosion of water pump, water passages and so on). There is also the potential of creating high and low pressure spots in the cooling system... VERY undesirable. Just figured I'd mention this since you brought up the topic.