86.5 7MGE Problems

oregonjoe · 10-07-2009, 04:42 PM

Check your plugs - if they look like coolant or have deposits its a BHG - Start with NO 6 as that is the most common - All plugs should be dry and light tan. Mine ran rough after sitting overnight and was burning coolant same on acceleration

AAPSuprabuilder · 10-12-2009, 02:45 PM

I just got done with that same issue on my 87, I replaced the head gasket had all new hoses installed, put a new water pump on and fan clutch. All to find out my radiator wasn't cooling to specification so when the car stopped the pressure was still in the system as the coolant was too hot. I HIGHLY recommend taking out the radiator, take it to a radiator shop and have them flow test it. The average cost is around $15.00. It may save you hundreds in the long run and either way you know for certain if it is or isn't good enough at cooling. As the radiator heats up the fins are supposed to disperse the heat although a Toyota that is older sometimes has their radiators deteriorate. the money you spend on getting it tested will easily pay for your time and frustration in the long run.

86.5 7MGE · 10-13-2009, 04:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPSuprabuilder

I just got done with that same issue on my 87, I replaced the head gasket had all new hoses installed, put a new water pump on and fan clutch. All to find out my radiator wasn't cooling to specification so when the car stopped the pressure was still in the system as the coolant was too hot. I HIGHLY recommend taking out the radiator, take it to a radiator shop and have them flow test it. The average cost is around $15.00. It may save you hundreds in the long run and either way you know for certain if it is or isn't good enough at cooling. As the radiator heats up the fins are supposed to disperse the heat although a Toyota that is older sometimes has their radiators deteriorate. the money you spend on getting it tested will easily pay for your time and frustration in the long run.

Thanks for the input I'll look into that, I was wanting to get an aluminum radiator any ways now I might have a reason to get it earlier than anticipated

86.5 7MGE · 10-13-2009, 05:08 AM

Alright, so I finally changed out my water pump and two more short hoses that had a crack in them and were swollen. I noticed that there is some pitting or scraping inside the chamber where the water pump sat, hopefully it's nothing to be concerned about. The water pump didn't didn't look too bad, but I changed it out anyways to keep from doing it later on down the road. In the process of it all I ended up with a broken temp fuel control sensor I think that's what it's called and now have to wait until Thursday or Friday for the part to come in from Toyota. So, now I won't be able to test out my work until then. But on the positive side it forces me to wait to make sure I have a good seal formed before I put antifreeze in and start putting pressure back on the system, should be good since I used high temp RTV in place of the gasket cause the gasket it came with was destroyed to begin with.

AAPSuprabuilder · 10-15-2009, 02:52 PM

Before you re-assemble everything, how is your clutch for your fan? it should be very tight. It should not spin super easy and if you spin it with your hand there should be a lot of resistance. Otherwise if its easy to spin, you wont have your fan cooling as well as it should be. The clutches are around $40 if you need to get one replaced.

Krem · 10-15-2009, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPSuprabuilder

Before you re-assemble everything, how is your clutch for your fan? it should be very tight. It should not spin super easy and if you spin it with your hand there should be a lot of resistance. Otherwise if its easy to spin, you wont have your fan cooling as well as it should be. The clutches are around $40 if you need to get one replaced.

Sweet how it pays to read threads not yet related to issues I'm having... that's good to know, ty

AAPSuprabuilder · 10-15-2009, 03:16 PM

also remember to look between your radiator and ac condenser that no animal has made a nest there to help for cooling, its hard to see sometimes, the back of your radiator looks like its deteriorating.

Tbredd7 · 10-15-2009, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86.5 7MGE

Thanks for the input I'll look into that, I was wanting to get an aluminum radiator any ways now I might have a reason to get it earlier than anticipated

Trust me upgrading to the aluminum radiator is great. I would recommend getting a 3 row radiator with some electric fans to cool it. Thats what I did when I bought the car because the radiator was messed up. That thing cools down so fucking fast.

Krem · 10-15-2009, 07:17 PM

I'm looking to do this fix too, since I live in vegas and w/o a fan shroud on the crank fan, I'm at high risk for over heating next summer. Luckily that means I have time to save and do homework on the project. However, I still have come across some questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me rather than me asking the manufacturer themselves.

I have a 7mge that was manual, is now automatic... Looking into:
Aluminum Radiator and Aluminum Dual Fan Shroud

However, I noticed that the radiator says 86-92 manual. Why's the transmission type make a difference? Are the radiators different specs/sizes? Since I can't find any aluminum radiators for an automatic, I have to think it doesn't matter... but if it didn't matter, why do they specify manual? Same applies to the fan shroud since that's the radiator it'd best mount up to...

Am I SOL cause I have an automatic? maybe stuck with using Elec. fan mounted to radiator? or can I do this upgrade on the auto? Further more, if I mount the single fan to my existing radiator or upgrade the radiator and throw in the dual elec. fan shroud assembly, do I pull the fan off the crank? or does that stay for weight balance?

86.5 7MGE · 10-17-2009, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krem

I'm looking to do this fix too, since I live in vegas and w/o a fan shroud on the crank fan, I'm at high risk for over heating next summer. Luckily that means I have time to save and do homework on the project. However, I still have come across some questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me rather than me asking the manufacturer themselves.

I have a 7mge that was manual, is now automatic... Looking into:
Aluminum Radiator and Aluminum Dual Fan Shroud

However, I noticed that the radiator says 86-92 manual. Why's the transmission type make a difference? Are the radiators different specs/sizes? Since I can't find any aluminum radiators for an automatic, I have to think it doesn't matter... but if it didn't matter, why do they specify manual? Same applies to the fan shroud since that's the radiator it'd best mount up to...

Am I SOL cause I have an automatic? maybe stuck with using Elec. fan mounted to radiator? or can I do this upgrade on the auto? Further more, if I mount the single fan to my existing radiator or upgrade the radiator and throw in the dual elec. fan shroud assembly, do I pull the fan off the crank? or does that stay for weight balance?

First of all you definitely want to pull the manual fan off if you put electric ones on because that's going to more problems than solutions and plus I don't think you could get the dual fans on without pulling the clutch fan off. The difference between the auto and manual radiators is that the automatic radiator has transmission coolant line connections which you need versus the manual which doesn't have any use for them.

10-07-2009, 04:42 PM	#1
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Bhg? Check your plugs - if they look like coolant or have deposits its a BHG - Start with NO 6 as that is the most common - All plugs should be dry and light tan. Mine ran rough after sitting overnight and was burning coolant same on acceleration

10-13-2009, 05:08 AM	#4
86.5 7MGE 3" Exhaust Join Date: May 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 104	Alright, so I finally changed out my water pump and two more short hoses that had a crack in them and were swollen. I noticed that there is some pitting or scraping inside the chamber where the water pump sat, hopefully it's nothing to be concerned about. The water pump didn't didn't look too bad, but I changed it out anyways to keep from doing it later on down the road. In the process of it all I ended up with a broken temp fuel control sensor I think that's what it's called and now have to wait until Thursday or Friday for the part to come in from Toyota. So, now I won't be able to test out my work until then. But on the positive side it forces me to wait to make sure I have a good seal formed before I put antifreeze in and start putting pressure back on the system, should be good since I used high temp RTV in place of the gasket cause the gasket it came with was destroyed to begin with. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Cold Air Intake MIZU Aluminum Radiator Ralco RZ Underdrive Pulley NGK Wires and Plugs Hi Flow CAT MR Muffler Super Coil Techna Fit Brake lines Clear Corner Turn Signal Lens Projector Head Lights Evo Fog Lights Evo Body Kit Soon ---> 3'' Exhaust Last edited by 86.5 7MGE; 10-13-2009 at 05:10 AM.

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10-12-2009, 02:45 PM	#2
AAPSuprabuilder Stock Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: canton, Ohio Posts: 6 Blog Entries: 1	I just got done with that same issue on my 87, I replaced the head gasket had all new hoses installed, put a new water pump on and fan clutch. All to find out my radiator wasn't cooling to specification so when the car stopped the pressure was still in the system as the coolant was too hot. I HIGHLY recommend taking out the radiator, take it to a radiator shop and have them flow test it. The average cost is around $15.00. It may save you hundreds in the long run and either way you know for certain if it is or isn't good enough at cooling. As the radiator heats up the fins are supposed to disperse the heat although a Toyota that is older sometimes has their radiators deteriorate. the money you spend on getting it tested will easily pay for your time and frustration in the long run.

10-15-2009, 02:52 PM	#5
AAPSuprabuilder Stock Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: canton, Ohio Posts: 6 Blog Entries: 1	Before you re-assemble everything, how is your clutch for your fan? it should be very tight. It should not spin super easy and if you spin it with your hand there should be a lot of resistance. Otherwise if its easy to spin, you wont have your fan cooling as well as it should be. The clutches are around $40 if you need to get one replaced.

10-15-2009, 03:16 PM	#7
AAPSuprabuilder Stock Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: canton, Ohio Posts: 6 Blog Entries: 1	also remember to look between your radiator and ac condenser that no animal has made a nest there to help for cooling, its hard to see sometimes, the back of your radiator looks like its deteriorating.

10-15-2009, 07:17 PM	#9
Krem 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 167	I'm looking to do this fix too, since I live in vegas and w/o a fan shroud on the crank fan, I'm at high risk for over heating next summer. Luckily that means I have time to save and do homework on the project. However, I still have come across some questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me rather than me asking the manufacturer themselves. I have a 7mge that was manual, is now automatic... Looking into: Aluminum Radiator and Aluminum Dual Fan Shroud However, I noticed that the radiator says 86-92 manual. Why's the transmission type make a difference? Are the radiators different specs/sizes? Since I can't find any aluminum radiators for an automatic, I have to think it doesn't matter... but if it didn't matter, why do they specify manual? Same applies to the fan shroud since that's the radiator it'd best mount up to... Am I SOL cause I have an automatic? maybe stuck with using Elec. fan mounted to radiator? or can I do this upgrade on the auto? Further more, if I mount the single fan to my existing radiator or upgrade the radiator and throw in the dual elec. fan shroud assembly, do I pull the fan off the crank? or does that stay for weight balance?