7MGE Engine rebuild

Bill UK · 09-12-2009, 05:51 PM

$583 for the head refurbishment at a guess, just make sure there’s no beads left inside the cam covers. Its also very common to have radial score marks on some of the cams and journals which shouldn’t be a problem.

oregonjoe · 09-12-2009, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill UK

$583 for the head refurbishment at a guess, just make sure there’s no beads left inside the cam covers. Its also very common to have radial score marks on some of the cams and journals which shouldn’t be a problem.

Well now I don't feel as bad for the $400 it cost me. And yes there were some score marks on the CAM journals which the shop said not to worry about. But one questions is - how diffucult should the CAMs be to turn when all torqued down? I supose it would have been good to have assembled everthing with out the valves so we could feel how smooth the cams turned without resistance. Just have to trust the shop?

With the CAMs and head on the block - they can be turned by hand but sure feels strange when all th lobes engage the tappets.

Funny thing is - my very first car I every worked on was a 69 English Rover Sedan with overhead CAM and timing chain - twin carbs too!

oregonjoe · 09-12-2009, 07:16 PM

I am having a problem with the dipstick. Just can't get it reinstalled correctly.

When it came out was just pressed fit in but took some doing to twist it out. Even tough I did nothing to it - now when I reinstall it just slips in with out any resistance and spins around. Did not bore or scrub anything.

Checked that it bottoms out - jsut too loose in there now.

Is there some sort of adheasive to trick to reinstall?

Bill UK · 09-12-2009, 08:21 PM

The dipstick tube that’s protrudes into the sump was a very tight fit, the external tube that I think your referring to was very loose, I think there’s an O ring on the bottom of it, I just smeared some silicon sealant over the O ring a pushed it in, that was 2 years ago. No sign of a leak so far. If you are referring to the dipstick, then the only thing it could be is the rubber part at the top has shrunk slightly, there are products that will rejuvenate rubber seals to make them soft such as windscreen wipes etc, cant say I've ever used them though.

oregonjoe · 09-13-2009, 04:50 PM

Thanks Bill UK. I am going to pull it out and have another look - it dosn't seem right. The problm is it in between the Engine mount bracket so it not easy to get too.

oregonjoe · 09-13-2009, 04:57 PM

Installing the timing belt on a Supra is much easier then a 4-Runner. The manual says to install the crank sprocket, lower timing cover and crank damper in order to see where TDC for number one cylinder is but I preferred to get the belt on and set up the timing with them off so I can see what is going on.

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Turns out that on the 90 Supra, all the marks are at 12 O’clock. Set both cam sprockets to 12 o’clock and the tab on the crank to 12 o’clock and you have it right.

Wrap the belt around the crank sprocket and up to the left around the oil pump sprocket, pull tight, then around both cams and the idler pulley. Double check the marks again because they will move as the belt goes on. I had to do this three times till they were correct. Now put the spring on the idler and give the crank a few spins to see if the marks still line up. Tighten the idler bolt to 35 ft-pounds and spin the crank again. Loosen the idler bolt, wedge a large screw driver in to tighten up the belt tension and retourque the idler bolt and your done.

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Before I put the top timing cover on, I installed the distributor to get it set to Number 1 spark since I had the engine at TDC on the compression stroke.

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Water pump went on next and I’m making progress.

oregonjoe · 09-13-2009, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill UK

The dipstick tube that’s protrudes into the sump was a very tight fit, the external tube that I think your referring to was very loose, I think there’s an O ring on the bottom of it, I just smeared some silicon sealant over the O ring a pushed it in, that was 2 years ago. No sign of a leak so far. If you are referring to the dipstick, then the only thing it could be is the rubber part at the top has shrunk slightly, there are products that will rejuvenate rubber seals to make them soft such as windscreen wipes etc, cant say I've ever used them though.

After reading your post again - I see waht you were saying. I was referring tot he external support tube - not he actual dipsick with level marks. Sounds like yours was very loose too? I tried some RTV but still seems to move around quite easily. It just that if I do have a problem once the engine is back together - it going to real had to get to it.

Is there some support clamp or somthing that keeps it from moving??

Bill UK · 09-13-2009, 07:11 PM

The 7M-GTE dipstick tube has a bracket which bolts onto the Turbo, not sure about the non turbo engine, I would have though it would be secured at some point, otherwise it would pull out when removing the dipstick.

Bill UK · 09-13-2009, 09:01 PM

Looks like the non-turbo engine has a dipstick tube that screw into the bock with no support bracket.

cvbikeguy · 11-25-2009, 11:42 PM

oh another question. your block too a week in the machine shop....

but what about the head?

09-12-2009, 07:16 PM	#3
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Dipstick I am having a problem with the dipstick. Just can't get it reinstalled correctly. When it came out was just pressed fit in but took some doing to twist it out. Even tough I did nothing to it - now when I reinstall it just slips in with out any resistance and spins around. Did not bore or scrub anything. Checked that it bottoms out - jsut too loose in there now. Is there some sort of adheasive to trick to reinstall?

09-13-2009, 04:50 PM	#5
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Dipstick Thanks Bill UK. I am going to pull it out and have another look - it dosn't seem right. The problm is it in between the Engine mount bracket so it not easy to get too.

09-13-2009, 04:57 PM	#6
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Timing Belt Installing the timing belt on a Supra is much easier then a 4-Runner. The manual says to install the crank sprocket, lower timing cover and crank damper in order to see where TDC for number one cylinder is but I preferred to get the belt on and set up the timing with them off so I can see what is going on. Turns out that on the 90 Supra, all the marks are at 12 O’clock. Set both cam sprockets to 12 o’clock and the tab on the crank to 12 o’clock and you have it right. Wrap the belt around the crank sprocket and up to the left around the oil pump sprocket, pull tight, then around both cams and the idler pulley. Double check the marks again because they will move as the belt goes on. I had to do this three times till they were correct. Now put the spring on the idler and give the crank a few spins to see if the marks still line up. Tighten the idler bolt to 35 ft-pounds and spin the crank again. Loosen the idler bolt, wedge a large screw driver in to tighten up the belt tension and retourque the idler bolt and your done. Before I put the top timing cover on, I installed the distributor to get it set to Number 1 spark since I had the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Water pump went on next and I’m making progress.

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09-12-2009, 05:51 PM	#1
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	$583 for the head refurbishment at a guess, just make sure there’s no beads left inside the cam covers. Its also very common to have radial score marks on some of the cams and journals which shouldn’t be a problem.

09-12-2009, 08:21 PM	#4
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	The dipstick tube that’s protrudes into the sump was a very tight fit, the external tube that I think your referring to was very loose, I think there’s an O ring on the bottom of it, I just smeared some silicon sealant over the O ring a pushed it in, that was 2 years ago. No sign of a leak so far. If you are referring to the dipstick, then the only thing it could be is the rubber part at the top has shrunk slightly, there are products that will rejuvenate rubber seals to make them soft such as windscreen wipes etc, cant say I've ever used them though.

09-13-2009, 07:11 PM	#8
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	The 7M-GTE dipstick tube has a bracket which bolts onto the Turbo, not sure about the non turbo engine, I would have though it would be secured at some point, otherwise it would pull out when removing the dipstick.

09-13-2009, 09:01 PM	#9
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Looks like the non-turbo engine has a dipstick tube that screw into the bock with no support bracket.

11-25-2009, 11:42 PM	#10
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	oh another question. your block too a week in the machine shop.... but what about the head?