Car wont idle (wont stay on)

btwilson86 · 09-01-2009, 05:29 PM

Deflection would be if the value changes or jumps. This is usually easier to see on an analog meter, but if you're going slow enough you should be able to see it on a digital one as well. However, that step is to be done if you need to change the setting. Before you adjust it, you need to check the position of it using those feeler gauges at the top of the page I linked to earlier in this thread. If it's not in spec, then you need to turn it and watch for deflection.

Kevin · 09-02-2009, 04:16 AM

ok so whatever i did... made it worse!! LOL shit.

This is a vid of it cold http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bXwHcuHS5k
(btw i am not touching the gas or anything)

this is a vid of it warm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNzXQvtmczM
(every once in a while it does that wierd thing in the first video even when it is warm)

do you think i have a bad tps? cuz i do have a code 51 aswell as a code 52 (i gotta rewire my KS's)
or should i try adjusting the tps again? im using a digital meter so its pretty damn hard to keep it all steady and touch the right leads to look for "deflection" <---- would the number changing to "0.L" from an actual number mean deflection? this is just too confusing for me! sorry

btwilson86 · 09-02-2009, 06:18 AM

Well, deflection should be any change in the resistance. A jump from an actual number to "0.L" (which I'm assuming is the infinite reading for your meter) would be a deflection in the reading.

So I have a question for you; after you adjust the TPS, do you take the 4 readings (as well as the 5th check where you make sure that between the VC-E2 terminals the resistance is between 4.25-8.25 kilo-ohms at all throttle positions) again? If not, then you might actually be putting it farther off of it's mark.

If you can't get it within spec, you might need to replace the TPS.

Kevin · 09-02-2009, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86

So I have a question for you; after you adjust the TPS, do you take the 4 readings (as well as the 5th check where you make sure that between the VC-E2 terminals the resistance is between 4.25-8.25 kilo-ohms at all throttle positions) again? If not, then you might actually be putting it farther off of it's mark.

no not yet. i didnt have time to do it. i had to go put it back on my car to drive to work. but by the way the car runs now it doesnt seems like it lol.
i'll try again when i have some time.

09-01-2009, 05:29 PM	#1
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Deflection would be if the value changes or jumps. This is usually easier to see on an analog meter, but if you're going slow enough you should be able to see it on a digital one as well. However, that step is to be done if you need to change the setting. Before you adjust it, you need to check the position of it using those feeler gauges at the top of the page I linked to earlier in this thread. If it's not in spec, then you need to turn it and watch for deflection. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

09-02-2009, 04:16 AM	#2
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	ok so whatever i did... made it worse!! LOL shit. This is a vid of it cold http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bXwHcuHS5k (btw i am not touching the gas or anything) this is a vid of it warm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNzXQvtmczM (every once in a while it does that wierd thing in the first video even when it is warm) do you think i have a bad tps? cuz i do have a code 51 aswell as a code 52 (i gotta rewire my KS's) or should i try adjusting the tps again? im using a digital meter so its pretty damn hard to keep it all steady and touch the right leads to look for "deflection" <---- would the number changing to "0.L" from an actual number mean deflection? this is just too confusing for me! sorry Last edited by Kevin; 09-02-2009 at 04:19 AM.

09-02-2009, 06:18 AM	#3
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Well, deflection should be any change in the resistance. A jump from an actual number to "0.L" (which I'm assuming is the infinite reading for your meter) would be a deflection in the reading. So I have a question for you; after you adjust the TPS, do you take the 4 readings (as well as the 5th check where you make sure that between the VC-E2 terminals the resistance is between 4.25-8.25 kilo-ohms at all throttle positions) again? If not, then you might actually be putting it farther off of it's mark. If you can't get it within spec, you might need to replace the TPS. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

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