my bad guys, been on supramania for too long. it's a hostile environment there... the only thing that i will not apologize for is when people dont use the search button... is your engine pinging since the knock sensor code?

probably not because with the code.. the ecu compensates and retards timing. i had the code when i broke my ks connector. no spark knock...

top-tuner
 

Hi guys,
I am new here so greetings to all!!!!!!!!:ghey:

I need some info on coolant and intake air temp sensor
values in volts cold and hot.
My engine is a 2JZGTE twin turbo 3 liter.


Godspeed......:rant2:

Hey welcome.

What? wat values lol

top-tuner
 

Hi Kevin,
The voltage values from the coolant and intake temp
sensors that returns to the ecu !!!!!
When cold the values on a Nissan is 3.25 volts and hot 1.25 volts
for the coolant sensor.
Do you know if these are the same for the 2JZGTE engine ??:rant:

Grt....

ok hey guys sorry for taking so long to get back to u on checking the tps. but i just did it just now and i am confused as shit... lol. i tried doing it the way the tsrm shows but its just too confusing for me? everything seems within spec. so i go to the page to adjust it. so i can adjust it. and it says insert .7mm thickness gauge so i did that.. then i check out idl and e2 with an ohm meter.. i get about 20 ohms then i rotate clockwise.. im supposed to rotate until it "DEFLECTS" ... what the hell does that mean? when i rotate it it read "0.L"... does that mean it deflected? lol. well i gotta put my car back together cuz i need to drive it. any advice would help. this is too confusing. and also my thickness gauge only goes up to .88mm and i need .9mm lol will that be a problem?

Deflection would be if the value changes or jumps. This is usually easier to see on an analog meter, but if you're going slow enough you should be able to see it on a digital one as well. However, that step is to be done if you need to change the setting. Before you adjust it, you need to check the position of it using those feeler gauges at the top of the page I linked to earlier in this thread. If it's not in spec, then you need to turn it and watch for deflection.

ok so whatever i did... made it worse!! LOL shit.

This is a vid of it cold http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bXwHcuHS5k
(btw i am not touching the gas or anything)

this is a vid of it warm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNzXQvtmczM
(every once in a while it does that wierd thing in the first video even when it is warm)

do you think i have a bad tps? cuz i do have a code 51 aswell as a code 52 (i gotta rewire my KS's)
or should i try adjusting the tps again? im using a digital meter so its pretty damn hard to keep it all steady and touch the right leads to look for "deflection" <---- would the number changing to "0.L" from an actual number mean deflection? this is just too confusing for me! sorry

Well, deflection should be any change in the resistance. A jump from an actual number to "0.L" (which I'm assuming is the infinite reading for your meter) would be a deflection in the reading.

So I have a question for you; after you adjust the TPS, do you take the 4 readings (as well as the 5th check where you make sure that between the VC-E2 terminals the resistance is between 4.25-8.25 kilo-ohms at all throttle positions) again? If not, then you might actually be putting it farther off of it's mark.

If you can't get it within spec, you might need to replace the TPS.

no not yet. i didnt have time to do it. i had to go put it back on my car to drive to work. but by the way the car runs now it doesnt seems like it lol.
i'll try again when i have some time.