Car wont idle (wont stay on)

Kevin · 08-13-2009, 08:20 PM

So basically after my hg.. my car will start and run.. but wont stay on (wont idle).. it just dies. when i start it up.. it just hits 1000rpm and then slowly dies. i thought it was the iacv.. so i changed it... and nothing was different. the car will stay on if i hold on the gas.. or if i really adjust the idle screw on the throttle body but i was told that that shouldnt be adjust and that the idling is controlled my the iacv. when i do ajdust the crew though the car starts loping idle.. which is understandable. so basically i'm stumped. i'm open for suggestions. btw when i hold the rpms at around 700-1000 .. the car is really rough and above 2000 rpm it is smooth but there seems to be the occasional misfire/backfire sound. i changed the plugs and wires already.

Kevin · 08-14-2009, 03:24 PM

videos of it..
this video i am not touching the gas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04J68xPIsas
btw i had to have the air bypass screw almost all the way out for the car to actually stay on when it wasnt warmed up yet.

the car slows down like this and dies if it isnt warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5_yo...eature=channel

this is how it sounds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RrhM...eature=channel

corrosivecopper · 08-14-2009, 03:38 PM

It's hard to tell in the video, but it seems ya may have a vac leak somewhere. Have ya double checked all your lines and made sure they're where they should be? As well double check the torque on your EGR valve.. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the one to the intake and it idled really rough and wouldn't stay running until I realized it and tightened it. Was fine after that except the loud knock.. different issue though lol

Kevin · 08-14-2009, 03:55 PM

yup checked vacuum line 5+ times lol as i had this probles for about 3 weeks. i'll double check the egr torque. i'm sure i tightened them though

mirage83 · 08-14-2009, 08:31 PM

Might want to check your AFM. If you've gone through all the vacuum lines (and there are a BUNCH of them, some tucked away and hiding), check your AFM connections and the I/C piping for problems.

Kevin · 08-15-2009, 02:27 AM

yup check afm and ic piping already .. probably one of the first things i did because i thought the problem was afm related.. but it isnt. there arent anycodes other then 52.. which is my KS.. which i fix already.. i just need to rewire the front one. but a KS shouldnt cause this problem though..
the next thing i might look at is the tps.. after that.. im stumped

top-tuner · 08-20-2009, 04:16 AM

Hi guys,
I am new here so greetings to all!!!!!!!!

I need some info on coolant and intake air temp sensor
values in volts cold and hot.
My engine is a 2JZGTE twin turbo 3 liter.

Godspeed......

Kevin · 08-20-2009, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by top-tuner

Hi guys,
I am new here so greetings to all!!!!!!!!

I need some info on coolant and intake air temp sensor
values in volts cold and hot.
My engine is a 2JZGTE twin turbo 3 liter.

Godspeed......

Hey welcome.

What? wat values lol

top-tuner · 08-20-2009, 05:45 AM

Hi Kevin,
The voltage values from the coolant and intake temp
sensors that returns to the ecu !!!!!
When cold the values on a Nissan is 3.25 volts and hot 1.25 volts
for the coolant sensor.
Do you know if these are the same for the 2JZGTE engine ??

Grt....

Kevin · 09-01-2009, 04:18 PM

ok hey guys sorry for taking so long to get back to u on checking the tps. but i just did it just now and i am confused as shit... lol. i tried doing it the way the tsrm shows but its just too confusing for me? everything seems within spec. so i go to the page to adjust it. so i can adjust it. and it says insert .7mm thickness gauge so i did that.. then i check out idl and e2 with an ohm meter.. i get about 20 ohms then i rotate clockwise.. im supposed to rotate until it "DEFLECTS" ... what the hell does that mean? when i rotate it it read "0.L"... does that mean it deflected? lol. well i gotta put my car back together cuz i need to drive it. any advice would help. this is too confusing. and also my thickness gauge only goes up to .88mm and i need .9mm lol will that be a problem?

08-13-2009, 08:20 PM	#1
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	Car wont idle (wont stay on) So basically after my hg.. my car will start and run.. but wont stay on (wont idle).. it just dies. when i start it up.. it just hits 1000rpm and then slowly dies. i thought it was the iacv.. so i changed it... and nothing was different. the car will stay on if i hold on the gas.. or if i really adjust the idle screw on the throttle body but i was told that that shouldnt be adjust and that the idling is controlled my the iacv. when i do ajdust the crew though the car starts loping idle.. which is understandable. so basically i'm stumped. i'm open for suggestions. btw when i hold the rpms at around 700-1000 .. the car is really rough and above 2000 rpm it is smooth but there seems to be the occasional misfire/backfire sound. i changed the plugs and wires already.

08-20-2009, 05:45 AM	#9
top-tuner Stock Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South America Posts: 15	top-tuner Hi Kevin, The voltage values from the coolant and intake temp sensors that returns to the ecu !!!!! When cold the values on a Nissan is 3.25 volts and hot 1.25 volts for the coolant sensor. Do you know if these are the same for the 2JZGTE engine ?? Grt....

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08-14-2009, 03:24 PM	#2
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	videos of it.. this video i am not touching the gas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04J68xPIsas btw i had to have the air bypass screw almost all the way out for the car to actually stay on when it wasnt warmed up yet. the car slows down like this and dies if it isnt warmed up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5_yo...eature=channel this is how it sounds http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RrhM...eature=channel

08-14-2009, 03:38 PM	#3
corrosivecopper Stock Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bonnyville, Alberta, Canada Posts: 20	It's hard to tell in the video, but it seems ya may have a vac leak somewhere. Have ya double checked all your lines and made sure they're where they should be? As well double check the torque on your EGR valve.. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the one to the intake and it idled really rough and wouldn't stay running until I realized it and tightened it. Was fine after that except the loud knock.. different issue though lol

08-14-2009, 03:55 PM	#4
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	yup checked vacuum line 5+ times lol as i had this probles for about 3 weeks. i'll double check the egr torque. i'm sure i tightened them though

08-14-2009, 08:31 PM	#5
mirage83 12psi boost Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Georgia Posts: 359	Might want to check your AFM. If you've gone through all the vacuum lines (and there are a BUNCH of them, some tucked away and hiding), check your AFM connections and the I/C piping for problems.

08-15-2009, 02:27 AM	#6
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	yup check afm and ic piping already .. probably one of the first things i did because i thought the problem was afm related.. but it isnt. there arent anycodes other then 52.. which is my KS.. which i fix already.. i just need to rewire the front one. but a KS shouldnt cause this problem though.. the next thing i might look at is the tps.. after that.. im stumped

08-20-2009, 04:16 AM	#7
top-tuner Stock Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South America Posts: 15	top-tuner Hi guys, I am new here so greetings to all!!!!!!!! I need some info on coolant and intake air temp sensor values in volts cold and hot. My engine is a 2JZGTE twin turbo 3 liter. Godspeed......

09-01-2009, 04:18 PM	#10
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	ok hey guys sorry for taking so long to get back to u on checking the tps. but i just did it just now and i am confused as shit... lol. i tried doing it the way the tsrm shows but its just too confusing for me? everything seems within spec. so i go to the page to adjust it. so i can adjust it. and it says insert .7mm thickness gauge so i did that.. then i check out idl and e2 with an ohm meter.. i get about 20 ohms then i rotate clockwise.. im supposed to rotate until it "DEFLECTS" ... what the hell does that mean? when i rotate it it read "0.L"... does that mean it deflected? lol. well i gotta put my car back together cuz i need to drive it. any advice would help. this is too confusing. and also my thickness gauge only goes up to .88mm and i need .9mm lol will that be a problem?