Car wont idle (wont stay on)

Kevin · 08-13-2009, 08:20 PM

So basically after my hg.. my car will start and run.. but wont stay on (wont idle).. it just dies. when i start it up.. it just hits 1000rpm and then slowly dies. i thought it was the iacv.. so i changed it... and nothing was different. the car will stay on if i hold on the gas.. or if i really adjust the idle screw on the throttle body but i was told that that shouldnt be adjust and that the idling is controlled my the iacv. when i do ajdust the crew though the car starts loping idle.. which is understandable. so basically i'm stumped. i'm open for suggestions. btw when i hold the rpms at around 700-1000 .. the car is really rough and above 2000 rpm it is smooth but there seems to be the occasional misfire/backfire sound. i changed the plugs and wires already.

Kevin · 08-14-2009, 03:24 PM

videos of it..
this video i am not touching the gas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04J68xPIsas
btw i had to have the air bypass screw almost all the way out for the car to actually stay on when it wasnt warmed up yet.

the car slows down like this and dies if it isnt warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5_yo...eature=channel

this is how it sounds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RrhM...eature=channel

corrosivecopper · 08-14-2009, 03:38 PM

It's hard to tell in the video, but it seems ya may have a vac leak somewhere. Have ya double checked all your lines and made sure they're where they should be? As well double check the torque on your EGR valve.. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the one to the intake and it idled really rough and wouldn't stay running until I realized it and tightened it. Was fine after that except the loud knock.. different issue though lol

Kevin · 08-14-2009, 03:55 PM

yup checked vacuum line 5+ times lol as i had this probles for about 3 weeks. i'll double check the egr torque. i'm sure i tightened them though

mirage83 · 08-14-2009, 08:31 PM

Might want to check your AFM. If you've gone through all the vacuum lines (and there are a BUNCH of them, some tucked away and hiding), check your AFM connections and the I/C piping for problems.

Kevin · 08-15-2009, 02:27 AM

yup check afm and ic piping already .. probably one of the first things i did because i thought the problem was afm related.. but it isnt. there arent anycodes other then 52.. which is my KS.. which i fix already.. i just need to rewire the front one. but a KS shouldnt cause this problem though..
the next thing i might look at is the tps.. after that.. im stumped

Kevin · 08-17-2009, 03:59 PM

bump any other suggestions?

btwilson86 · 08-17-2009, 08:18 PM

Have you checked that tps yet? How far off was it, or was it dialed in correctly?

Kevin · 08-18-2009, 01:41 AM

not yet. I need to go get some new feeler gauges when i have some free time this week. i am assuming i just adjust it following the tsrm?

btwilson86 · 08-18-2009, 03:01 AM

Yup. It's probably one of the easier things to do on these cars... Just have to check resistance 4 times, and if it's not in spec loosen the screw and rotate until it is.

08-13-2009, 08:20 PM	#1
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	Car wont idle (wont stay on) So basically after my hg.. my car will start and run.. but wont stay on (wont idle).. it just dies. when i start it up.. it just hits 1000rpm and then slowly dies. i thought it was the iacv.. so i changed it... and nothing was different. the car will stay on if i hold on the gas.. or if i really adjust the idle screw on the throttle body but i was told that that shouldnt be adjust and that the idling is controlled my the iacv. when i do ajdust the crew though the car starts loping idle.. which is understandable. so basically i'm stumped. i'm open for suggestions. btw when i hold the rpms at around 700-1000 .. the car is really rough and above 2000 rpm it is smooth but there seems to be the occasional misfire/backfire sound. i changed the plugs and wires already.

08-17-2009, 08:18 PM	#8
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Have you checked that tps yet? How far off was it, or was it dialed in correctly? __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

08-18-2009, 03:01 AM	#10
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Yup. It's probably one of the easier things to do on these cars... Just have to check resistance 4 times, and if it's not in spec loosen the screw and rotate until it is. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

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08-14-2009, 03:24 PM	#2
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	videos of it.. this video i am not touching the gas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04J68xPIsas btw i had to have the air bypass screw almost all the way out for the car to actually stay on when it wasnt warmed up yet. the car slows down like this and dies if it isnt warmed up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5_yo...eature=channel this is how it sounds http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RrhM...eature=channel

08-14-2009, 03:38 PM	#3
corrosivecopper Stock Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bonnyville, Alberta, Canada Posts: 20	It's hard to tell in the video, but it seems ya may have a vac leak somewhere. Have ya double checked all your lines and made sure they're where they should be? As well double check the torque on your EGR valve.. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the one to the intake and it idled really rough and wouldn't stay running until I realized it and tightened it. Was fine after that except the loud knock.. different issue though lol

08-14-2009, 03:55 PM	#4
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	yup checked vacuum line 5+ times lol as i had this probles for about 3 weeks. i'll double check the egr torque. i'm sure i tightened them though

08-14-2009, 08:31 PM	#5
mirage83 12psi boost Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Georgia Posts: 359	Might want to check your AFM. If you've gone through all the vacuum lines (and there are a BUNCH of them, some tucked away and hiding), check your AFM connections and the I/C piping for problems.

08-15-2009, 02:27 AM	#6
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	yup check afm and ic piping already .. probably one of the first things i did because i thought the problem was afm related.. but it isnt. there arent anycodes other then 52.. which is my KS.. which i fix already.. i just need to rewire the front one. but a KS shouldnt cause this problem though.. the next thing i might look at is the tps.. after that.. im stumped

08-17-2009, 03:59 PM	#7
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	bump any other suggestions?

08-18-2009, 01:41 AM	#9
Kevin 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 194	not yet. I need to go get some new feeler gauges when i have some free time this week. i am assuming i just adjust it following the tsrm?