Car wont idle (wont stay on)
 

So basically after my hg.. my car will start and run.. but wont stay on (wont idle).. it just dies. when i start it up.. it just hits 1000rpm and then slowly dies. i thought it was the iacv.. so i changed it... and nothing was different. the car will stay on if i hold on the gas.. or if i really adjust the idle screw on the throttle body but i was told that that shouldnt be adjust and that the idling is controlled my the iacv. when i do ajdust the crew though the car starts loping idle.. which is understandable. so basically i'm stumped. i'm open for suggestions. btw when i hold the rpms at around 700-1000 .. the car is really rough and above 2000 rpm it is smooth but there seems to be the occasional misfire/backfire sound. i changed the plugs and wires already.

videos of it..
this video i am not touching the gas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04J68xPIsas
btw i had to have the air bypass screw almost all the way out for the car to actually stay on when it wasnt warmed up yet.

the car slows down like this and dies if it isnt warmed up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5_yo...eature=channel


this is how it sounds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RrhM...eature=channel

It's hard to tell in the video, but it seems ya may have a vac leak somewhere. Have ya double checked all your lines and made sure they're where they should be? As well double check the torque on your EGR valve.. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the one to the intake and it idled really rough and wouldn't stay running until I realized it and tightened it. Was fine after that except the loud knock.. different issue though lol

yup checked vacuum line 5+ times lol as i had this probles for about 3 weeks. i'll double check the egr torque. i'm sure i tightened them though

Might want to check your AFM. If you've gone through all the vacuum lines (and there are a BUNCH of them, some tucked away and hiding), check your AFM connections and the I/C piping for problems.

yup check afm and ic piping already .. probably one of the first things i did because i thought the problem was afm related.. but it isnt. there arent anycodes other then 52.. which is my KS.. which i fix already.. i just need to rewire the front one. but a KS shouldnt cause this problem though..
the next thing i might look at is the tps.. after that.. im stumped :sadwavey:

bump any other suggestions?

Have you checked that tps yet? How far off was it, or was it dialed in correctly?

not yet. I need to go get some new feeler gauges when i have some free time this week. i am assuming i just adjust it following the tsrm?

Yup. It's probably one of the easier things to do on these cars... Just have to check resistance 4 times, and if it's not in spec loosen the screw and rotate until it is.

do i havce to have a feeler gauge?

Yeah, 2... a .5mm and a .9mm for 7MGTE's. Just for anyone who's reading, a .4mm and .75mm for 7MGE's. Check out this link for the terminals to measure from and the proper resistance values.

Having Similar Issues
 

Whats an AFM and I/C and IACV?

im having similar issues..
sometimes when i turn on my car itll start out fine at 1000rpm
then drop down to 500-600 or lower.. and it will just bounce back and forth.. high low high low.. or itll just die after a couple of bounces..

then if i shut down my car then start it back up again itll be fine..

also other times when im applying my brakes and come to a stop and my car is in neutral my rpms will drop and act as if its about to die then jump back up and begin to bounce.. or sometimes just die...

been wanting some of my friends to look at my car.. i know a few are pretty good with cars.. but most dont know much bout my supra.. a couple of them are cert. mechanics but usually too busy to actually diag my car.. suckss..



1989 Supra MK3 7M-GTE

An AFM is the air flow meter.

I/C is intercooler.

IACV is idle air control valve.


If/when i do fix my problem i'll let you know lol.

If your mechanic friend comes through and fixes it, let me know too.


Btw did you pull any codes?

i did the simple test with a paper clip into the diag port and code 52 knock sensor .. but thats all that showed up..

screw should be ALL THE WAY CLOSED if you have to have it open then there is another issue your trying to compensate for. your just gonna cause more problems.

fix your nock sensor... why do people like you always think that it's not important and it must be another problem? the nock sensor can cause many issue up to engine failure. once you fix the code, if the problem is still present then move on to the next possibility. it's called trouble shooting. use your critical thinking skill man. if you start skipping things your going to have a world of problems.

"been wanting some of my friends to look at my car.. i know a few are pretty good with cars.. but most dont know much bout my supra.. a couple of them are cert. mechanics but usually too busy to actually diag my car.. suckss.."

if i knew how to get to it id do it, and if i knew i wouldnt be waitin for some buddies of mine to look at my car...

i know where the knock sensor is located but im not that knowledgable about cars yet to just take apart everything to get to the knock sensor and fix/replace it.

i never said its not important.. i dont think anyone on this thread has said that it wasnt important..

seems like your getting a little heated shiftysupra.. need to relax man.:dance:

Amen to that... This forum will be alot more helpful to everyone if people would stop trying to diss and actually help each other...

Anyway, back on topic...

Kevin! You get that TPS checked yet? Been wondering how those results turned out...

Not yet buddy, i'll post up when i do.

Yes.. helpful is good. dissing is bad.. liek the other forums.. u get a few moderators who flame you if you ask a "stupid" question.. or dont "search" even though short words like "Tps" or "iacv" dont work.

my bad guys, been on supramania for too long. it's a hostile environment there... the only thing that i will not apologize for is when people dont use the search button... is your engine pinging since the knock sensor code?

probably not because with the code.. the ecu compensates and retards timing. i had the code when i broke my ks connector. no spark knock...

top-tuner
 

Hi guys,
I am new here so greetings to all!!!!!!!!:ghey:

I need some info on coolant and intake air temp sensor
values in volts cold and hot.
My engine is a 2JZGTE twin turbo 3 liter.


Godspeed......:rant2:

Hey welcome.

What? wat values lol

top-tuner
 

Hi Kevin,
The voltage values from the coolant and intake temp
sensors that returns to the ecu !!!!!
When cold the values on a Nissan is 3.25 volts and hot 1.25 volts
for the coolant sensor.
Do you know if these are the same for the 2JZGTE engine ??:rant:

Grt....

ok hey guys sorry for taking so long to get back to u on checking the tps. but i just did it just now and i am confused as shit... lol. i tried doing it the way the tsrm shows but its just too confusing for me? everything seems within spec. so i go to the page to adjust it. so i can adjust it. and it says insert .7mm thickness gauge so i did that.. then i check out idl and e2 with an ohm meter.. i get about 20 ohms then i rotate clockwise.. im supposed to rotate until it "DEFLECTS" ... what the hell does that mean? when i rotate it it read "0.L"... does that mean it deflected? lol. well i gotta put my car back together cuz i need to drive it. any advice would help. this is too confusing. and also my thickness gauge only goes up to .88mm and i need .9mm lol will that be a problem?

Deflection would be if the value changes or jumps. This is usually easier to see on an analog meter, but if you're going slow enough you should be able to see it on a digital one as well. However, that step is to be done if you need to change the setting. Before you adjust it, you need to check the position of it using those feeler gauges at the top of the page I linked to earlier in this thread. If it's not in spec, then you need to turn it and watch for deflection.

ok so whatever i did... made it worse!! LOL shit.

This is a vid of it cold http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bXwHcuHS5k
(btw i am not touching the gas or anything)

this is a vid of it warm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNzXQvtmczM
(every once in a while it does that wierd thing in the first video even when it is warm)

do you think i have a bad tps? cuz i do have a code 51 aswell as a code 52 (i gotta rewire my KS's)
or should i try adjusting the tps again? im using a digital meter so its pretty damn hard to keep it all steady and touch the right leads to look for "deflection" <---- would the number changing to "0.L" from an actual number mean deflection? this is just too confusing for me! sorry

Well, deflection should be any change in the resistance. A jump from an actual number to "0.L" (which I'm assuming is the infinite reading for your meter) would be a deflection in the reading.

So I have a question for you; after you adjust the TPS, do you take the 4 readings (as well as the 5th check where you make sure that between the VC-E2 terminals the resistance is between 4.25-8.25 kilo-ohms at all throttle positions) again? If not, then you might actually be putting it farther off of it's mark.

If you can't get it within spec, you might need to replace the TPS.

no not yet. i didnt have time to do it. i had to go put it back on my car to drive to work. but by the way the car runs now it doesnt seems like it lol.
i'll try again when i have some time.