Crank Pulley Removal . . . again

Paul_NJ · 03-19-2009, 05:42 PM

BT: Thanks. I'll start soaking it with Kroil . . . that's the best stuff I've found. I keep telling myself I've gotten this far . . . Just needed some encouragement I guess.

Bill: I've been thinking about the easiest way to make an SST. Perhaps an even simpler technique than the doughnut scheme might be a square steel plate, maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick, maybe 6 inches square . . . or any size larger than the diameter of the crank pulley. Drill 5 holes . . . one in the center large enough to pass a 19mm socket, and 4 more to pass 8mm bolts to thread into the pulley. The plate sits on the outside of the pulley rather than down inside. After bolting it up, stack up some short but heavy blocks of wood, maybe on top of a concrete block . . . between the floor and one flat of the square plate. May have to jam in a shim to tighten the stack up. But that should hold it. You'd have to lift the car for it to slip. Long as the 8mm bolts don't break. But using all four threaded holes should help. What do you think?

The threaded holes in my pulley are rusty and full of dirt. Definitely need cleaning and chasing. I'm going to see if i can find one each of M8x1 and m8x1.25 bolts to find out what we've got.

Bill UK · 03-19-2009, 07:53 PM

A few more photos’ Paul, I agree there must be an easer way to fabricate a pulley tool. The bottom photo looks similar to your suggestion. Did you say you where in the UK when we used farthings? you must have met Sherlock Homes.

Paul_NJ · 03-20-2009, 02:06 AM

The bolt size is M8 x 1.25

Bolt spacing tomorrow.

Paul_NJ · 03-24-2009, 08:18 PM

Bill: I made some measurements on the crank pulley. Here's what I got:

clearance hole for M8x1.25 bolt = 0.308 inches

bolt hole center-to-center spacing = 1.832 inches ("A" on your drawing)

bolt center circle diameter = 2.585 inches

I'm going to lay it out on my steel plate tomorrow and drill it. Let you know if it fits.

Paul

Paul_NJ · 03-25-2009, 04:23 PM

OK, this and a 5 foot piece of pipe worked:

I jambed a concrete block and a block of wood underneath the plate, and while the front end lifted a few inches, the bolt broke free. I think the plate can double as a puller . . . going to try to slide a traditional threaded puller under the plate and try to push it off.

Bill UK · 03-25-2009, 07:33 PM

Nice one Paul, I'll be interested to see if that works out ok. I see you pulled the rad.

Edit: I've just read the last part of your post, “it did work” bloody marvellous mate, so simple to make as well. This should go in the sticky section of the forum, well done!

Paul_NJ · 03-26-2009, 02:07 PM

Bill: Thanks for the kind words. Can't believe how tight that bolt was. The wider the plate the better, as it really rocked up onto a corner before the bolt broke free. I'll repost just those photos at a later date.

A few questions.

1. The tensioner spins freely and smoothly. I suspect investment in a new one is worthwhile anyway? Actually the belt doesn't look that bad either, but after 22 yrs and 135,000 miles I'm not thinking twice about that.

2. I don't see any way to get the lower timing belt cover off without completely removing the A/C compressor bracket. There's a couple 14mm (wrench size) bolts holding the bracket to the block down back that are going to be a little challenging.

Getting closer.

Thanks

03-25-2009, 07:33 PM	#6
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Nice one Paul, I'll be interested to see if that works out ok. I see you pulled the rad. Edit: I've just read the last part of your post, “it did work” bloody marvellous mate, so simple to make as well. This should go in the sticky section of the forum, well done! Last edited by Bill UK; 03-25-2009 at 07:43 PM. Reason: Edit

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03-19-2009, 05:42 PM	#1
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	BT: Thanks. I'll start soaking it with Kroil . . . that's the best stuff I've found. I keep telling myself I've gotten this far . . . Just needed some encouragement I guess. Bill: I've been thinking about the easiest way to make an SST. Perhaps an even simpler technique than the doughnut scheme might be a square steel plate, maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick, maybe 6 inches square . . . or any size larger than the diameter of the crank pulley. Drill 5 holes . . . one in the center large enough to pass a 19mm socket, and 4 more to pass 8mm bolts to thread into the pulley. The plate sits on the outside of the pulley rather than down inside. After bolting it up, stack up some short but heavy blocks of wood, maybe on top of a concrete block . . . between the floor and one flat of the square plate. May have to jam in a shim to tighten the stack up. But that should hold it. You'd have to lift the car for it to slip. Long as the 8mm bolts don't break. But using all four threaded holes should help. What do you think? The threaded holes in my pulley are rusty and full of dirt. Definitely need cleaning and chasing. I'm going to see if i can find one each of M8x1 and m8x1.25 bolts to find out what we've got.

03-19-2009, 07:53 PM	#2
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	A few more photos’ Paul, I agree there must be an easer way to fabricate a pulley tool. The bottom photo looks similar to your suggestion. Did you say you where in the UK when we used farthings? you must have met Sherlock Homes.

03-20-2009, 02:06 AM	#3
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	The bolt size is M8 x 1.25 Bolt spacing tomorrow.

03-24-2009, 08:18 PM	#4
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Bill: I made some measurements on the crank pulley. Here's what I got: clearance hole for M8x1.25 bolt = 0.308 inches bolt hole center-to-center spacing = 1.832 inches ("A" on your drawing) bolt center circle diameter = 2.585 inches I'm going to lay it out on my steel plate tomorrow and drill it. Let you know if it fits. Paul

03-25-2009, 04:23 PM	#5
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	OK, this and a 5 foot piece of pipe worked: I jambed a concrete block and a block of wood underneath the plate, and while the front end lifted a few inches, the bolt broke free. I think the plate can double as a puller . . . going to try to slide a traditional threaded puller under the plate and try to push it off.

03-26-2009, 02:07 PM	#7
Paul_NJ Intake Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: New Jersey Posts: 36	Bill: Thanks for the kind words. Can't believe how tight that bolt was. The wider the plate the better, as it really rocked up onto a corner before the bolt broke free. I'll repost just those photos at a later date. A few questions. 1. The tensioner spins freely and smoothly. I suspect investment in a new one is worthwhile anyway? Actually the belt doesn't look that bad either, but after 22 yrs and 135,000 miles I'm not thinking twice about that. 2. I don't see any way to get the lower timing belt cover off without completely removing the A/C compressor bracket. There's a couple 14mm (wrench size) bolts holding the bracket to the block down back that are going to be a little challenging. Getting closer. Thanks