shooting coolant out of reservoir/defunct heater

spudz29212MKIII · 02-14-2009, 10:22 PM

This is really stupid but just my two cents. I took my res. out once and cleaned it good even replaced the rubber tubing and scrubbed the cap. I accidentally reversed the cap which has the two nozzles so instead of going into the res tank it would shoot out all over the place. Switched the hoses and worked fine.

that prolly wont help lol but im just saying.

tsupranami · 02-15-2009, 06:55 AM

Engine pulled. Check.

Was it a complete rebuild? Did you or the shop pull the crank & pistons? Are the new pistons stock? Oversized? Same compression ratio?

Was the block deck resurfaced? If so, how much was taken off? Was the head milled also? How much was taken off of it?

Does FelPro make HG's in different thicknesses?

No heat. Check.

No heat = no hot water in heater core *and/or* airflow blocked by debris in ventilation system.

No hot water in heater core = no water flow(control valve(s) not operating) *and/or* no water (air in system.)

No water flow = control valve(s) not operating(firewall hvac and/or thermostat) *and/or* heater control unit not operating (dash unit and/or vacuum actuator)

No water in heater core = incomplete fill and bleed *and/or* leak in cooling system

Incomplete fill and bleed - Did someone forget to have the heater on (heater core valve open) when the system was filled and bled?

The heater hose into the control valve at the back of the engine is higher than the cap. Trapped air here causes lots of problems on the 7M's. Sounds like you're aware of that, though.

Leak in cooling system = internal *and/or* external

No external leaks and all other systems are good (thermostat, radiator, cap, water pump, no collapsed hoses, etc.) = engine is overheating (abnormal timing / fueling) *and/or* there is an internal leak.

Internal leak = water in oil/oil in water *and/or* water in cylinder(s)

Water in oil/oil in water = Milkshake of Death

Water in cylinders = air in cooling system *and/or* cracked head (<1%), cracked block (<0.5%), BHG (98.5%).

Clear as Mud? Check. lol!

Hope that helps. Good luck! Keep us posted.

sd88supra · 02-17-2009, 07:07 PM

Well, I finally had some time to do a little more research, and it occurred to me that the thermostat could be stuck open. So I went to go start the car cold, and sure enough, there was coolant circulation in the upper hose right away. It's raining now, but when it stops I'll go to Toyota to get a new radiator cap and thermostat. I'll give you guys an update after I install them and purge it.

tsupranami · 02-18-2009, 03:59 AM

Yep, that could cause a problem. Let's hope that's it.

sd88supra · 02-20-2009, 03:14 AM

I took off the thermostat housing, and there was no thermostat! Not only that, but the heater core was bypassed! My mechanic supposedly bypassed the heater core because the hose that goes into it was leaking and he couldn't find a replacement so it was a quick fix. At that it was done poorly, I'm more than sure air is getting in through there. So I go on to put in the thermostat, and the bottom bolt broke! So now I have to either drill it out or hammer a flathead screwdriver in to take it out (if any of you have done this before, please let me know how to go about it. I also bought a bolt extractor in case the hammering doesn't work).

I didn't have time to work on it until today, but I was delayed even more because the douchebags at Auto Zone and Kragen don't know how to find that hose without matching it, and I don't have the hose to match it. Does anyone know the diameter size and proper name for it? There's a good picture of it in the BHG repair sticky. The hose goes into the firewall on the driver's side.

spudz29212MKIII · 02-20-2009, 03:57 AM

Since were talking about radiators and coolant I have a question:

I have one of those pressure release radiator caps, and after a trip to class or home it kinda fizzes out where the release tab meets the metal cap (hard to describe) like someone has a straw blowing bubbles? I bought a new cap yesterday and it still does it. Any clues?

Thanks

tsupranami · 02-20-2009, 04:25 AM

I usually use a dremel with a cutting disk to cut a slot into the bolt end big enough for a flathead. You can also replace the entire thermostat housing if you can't get the broken bolt out, as it bolts to the block with three bolts (two studs/1 bolt.)

As for the heater hose, it's a Supra. Which means that normal auto parts stores don't carry most parts for it (including almost all the molded hoses except the upper and lower radiator hoses). I believe the heater hose will be Dealer or junkyard only. Maybe someone is making them now, but for the past ten years, whenever I go to Schucks, NAPA, or the like, they have almost nothing available that is Supra specific, in stock or special order. That's why my dealer gives me wholesale pricing, since I order parts for mine and several friends Supras on a regular basis.

It's just part of life with such a limited production car. Toyota didn't sell many Supras (relative to their other models) so most parts stores do not stock any Supra-specific parts, and if available at all, they usually have to order them.

Spudz - Supras weren't designed to use valved pressure relief caps (the one's with the little levers to relieve pressure). Get an OEM one from the Dealer, assuming the radiator is stock or OEM replacement. Fluidyne radiators work best with Fluidyne rad caps, etc.. If that doesn't work, there are probably other problems with your cooling system.

Bill UK · 02-20-2009, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spudz29212MKIII

Since were talking about radiators and coolant I have a question:
I have one of those pressure release radiator caps, and after a trip to class or home it kinda fizzes out where the release tab meets the metal cap (hard to describe) like someone has a straw blowing bubbles? I bought a new cap yesterday and it still does it. Any clues? Thanks

There are many different rad caps for the Supra, even more if you include the non-Toyota stock rads. Some caps are very similar in overall size but vary in depth. I made a few drawings of the two different types I have owned with the Toyota part #`s. Ignore the words Halfords and Nissens they only apply to the UK. Just look at the dimensions and the Toyota part #`s. You may have the wrong rad cap ?

SuprAllen · 03-01-2009, 09:14 AM

Is there a difference in the turbo head and the non-turbo head, or are they interchangeable.

sd88supra · 03-16-2009, 01:15 AM

Ok, so I got the broken bolt out, and I'm putting everything back together, only I can't get to the heater core outlet hose I need to replace! I tried getting around the EGR, but I have no choice but to remove it. Only neither the Haynes manual nor TSRM explain how to remove it. Where are the bolts I need to take out to remove the EGR valve?

02-14-2009, 10:22 PM	#1
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	This is really stupid but just my two cents. I took my res. out once and cleaned it good even replaced the rubber tubing and scrubbed the cap. I accidentally reversed the cap which has the two nozzles so instead of going into the res tank it would shoot out all over the place. Switched the hoses and worked fine. that prolly wont help lol but im just saying. __________________ Zach

02-15-2009, 06:55 AM	#2
tsupranami Intake Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Washington Posts: 32	Engine pulled. Check. Was it a complete rebuild? Did you or the shop pull the crank & pistons? Are the new pistons stock? Oversized? Same compression ratio? Was the block deck resurfaced? If so, how much was taken off? Was the head milled also? How much was taken off of it? Does FelPro make HG's in different thicknesses? No heat. Check. No heat = no hot water in heater core and/or airflow blocked by debris in ventilation system. No hot water in heater core = no water flow(control valve(s) not operating) and/or no water (air in system.) No water flow = control valve(s) not operating(firewall hvac and/or thermostat) and/or heater control unit not operating (dash unit and/or vacuum actuator) No water in heater core = incomplete fill and bleed and/or leak in cooling system Incomplete fill and bleed - Did someone forget to have the heater on (heater core valve open) when the system was filled and bled? The heater hose into the control valve at the back of the engine is higher than the cap. Trapped air here causes lots of problems on the 7M's. Sounds like you're aware of that, though. Leak in cooling system = internal and/or external No external leaks and all other systems are good (thermostat, radiator, cap, water pump, no collapsed hoses, etc.) = engine is overheating (abnormal timing / fueling) and/or there is an internal leak. Internal leak = water in oil/oil in water and/or water in cylinder(s) Water in oil/oil in water = Milkshake of Death Water in cylinders = air in cooling system and/or cracked head (<1%), cracked block (<0.5%), BHG (98.5%). Clear as Mud? Check. lol! Hope that helps. Good luck! Keep us posted. __________________ 89 Turbo Targa 5spd, 18x10 w/275/35/18, 18x9 w/245/40/18, Brembo CD rotors, Hawk pads, SS lines, HKS coilovers, ST sways, 1 pc. AL DS, V3 shifter, RPSmax PP w/HPF ferramic disk, custom crank, Eagle Rods, JE pistons, Ferrea valves, BC 264 cams, Fidanza cam gears, Walbro FP, AFPR, RC660 inj., Blitz SUS, Lexus AFM, SP 47trim CT26, HKS SSQ BOV, 2.5" AL IC pipes/FMIC, Lipp turbo elbow, RT DP, Greddy SP catback, HKS FCD, AEM Uego WB, Apex'i SAFC, Apex'i AVCR, EGT, Fluidyne AL rad, Flexalite fans.

02-17-2009, 07:07 PM	#3
sd88supra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Diego, Ca Posts: 190	update Well, I finally had some time to do a little more research, and it occurred to me that the thermostat could be stuck open. So I went to go start the car cold, and sure enough, there was coolant circulation in the upper hose right away. It's raining now, but when it stops I'll go to Toyota to get a new radiator cap and thermostat. I'll give you guys an update after I install them and purge it. __________________ -1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage. -1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car. -1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.

02-18-2009, 03:59 AM	#4
tsupranami Intake Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Washington Posts: 32	Yep, that could cause a problem. Let's hope that's it. __________________ 89 Turbo Targa 5spd, 18x10 w/275/35/18, 18x9 w/245/40/18, Brembo CD rotors, Hawk pads, SS lines, HKS coilovers, ST sways, 1 pc. AL DS, V3 shifter, RPSmax PP w/HPF ferramic disk, custom crank, Eagle Rods, JE pistons, Ferrea valves, BC 264 cams, Fidanza cam gears, Walbro FP, AFPR, RC660 inj., Blitz SUS, Lexus AFM, SP 47trim CT26, HKS SSQ BOV, 2.5" AL IC pipes/FMIC, Lipp turbo elbow, RT DP, Greddy SP catback, HKS FCD, AEM Uego WB, Apex'i SAFC, Apex'i AVCR, EGT, Fluidyne AL rad, Flexalite fans.

02-20-2009, 03:14 AM	#5
sd88supra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Diego, Ca Posts: 190	delayed! I took off the thermostat housing, and there was no thermostat! Not only that, but the heater core was bypassed! My mechanic supposedly bypassed the heater core because the hose that goes into it was leaking and he couldn't find a replacement so it was a quick fix. At that it was done poorly, I'm more than sure air is getting in through there. So I go on to put in the thermostat, and the bottom bolt broke! So now I have to either drill it out or hammer a flathead screwdriver in to take it out (if any of you have done this before, please let me know how to go about it. I also bought a bolt extractor in case the hammering doesn't work). I didn't have time to work on it until today, but I was delayed even more because the douchebags at Auto Zone and Kragen don't know how to find that hose without matching it, and I don't have the hose to match it. Does anyone know the diameter size and proper name for it? There's a good picture of it in the BHG repair sticky. The hose goes into the firewall on the driver's side. __________________ -1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage. -1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car. -1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.

02-20-2009, 03:57 AM	#6
spudz29212MKIII 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 69	Since were talking about radiators and coolant I have a question: I have one of those pressure release radiator caps, and after a trip to class or home it kinda fizzes out where the release tab meets the metal cap (hard to describe) like someone has a straw blowing bubbles? I bought a new cap yesterday and it still does it. Any clues? Thanks __________________ Zach

02-20-2009, 04:25 AM	#7
tsupranami Intake Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Washington Posts: 32	I usually use a dremel with a cutting disk to cut a slot into the bolt end big enough for a flathead. You can also replace the entire thermostat housing if you can't get the broken bolt out, as it bolts to the block with three bolts (two studs/1 bolt.) As for the heater hose, it's a Supra. Which means that normal auto parts stores don't carry most parts for it (including almost all the molded hoses except the upper and lower radiator hoses). I believe the heater hose will be Dealer or junkyard only. Maybe someone is making them now, but for the past ten years, whenever I go to Schucks, NAPA, or the like, they have almost nothing available that is Supra specific, in stock or special order. That's why my dealer gives me wholesale pricing, since I order parts for mine and several friends Supras on a regular basis. It's just part of life with such a limited production car. Toyota didn't sell many Supras (relative to their other models) so most parts stores do not stock any Supra-specific parts, and if available at all, they usually have to order them. Spudz - Supras weren't designed to use valved pressure relief caps (the one's with the little levers to relieve pressure). Get an OEM one from the Dealer, assuming the radiator is stock or OEM replacement. Fluidyne radiators work best with Fluidyne rad caps, etc.. If that doesn't work, there are probably other problems with your cooling system. __________________ 89 Turbo Targa 5spd, 18x10 w/275/35/18, 18x9 w/245/40/18, Brembo CD rotors, Hawk pads, SS lines, HKS coilovers, ST sways, 1 pc. AL DS, V3 shifter, RPSmax PP w/HPF ferramic disk, custom crank, Eagle Rods, JE pistons, Ferrea valves, BC 264 cams, Fidanza cam gears, Walbro FP, AFPR, RC660 inj., Blitz SUS, Lexus AFM, SP 47trim CT26, HKS SSQ BOV, 2.5" AL IC pipes/FMIC, Lipp turbo elbow, RT DP, Greddy SP catback, HKS FCD, AEM Uego WB, Apex'i SAFC, Apex'i AVCR, EGT, Fluidyne AL rad, Flexalite fans.

03-01-2009, 09:14 AM	#9
SuprAllen Stock Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Surrey UK Posts: 5	Head Is there a difference in the turbo head and the non-turbo head, or are they interchangeable.

03-16-2009, 01:15 AM	#10
sd88supra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Diego, Ca Posts: 190	update Ok, so I got the broken bolt out, and I'm putting everything back together, only I can't get to the heater core outlet hose I need to replace! I tried getting around the EGR, but I have no choice but to remove it. Only neither the Haynes manual nor TSRM explain how to remove it. Where are the bolts I need to take out to remove the EGR valve? __________________ -1987 5 spd N/A with TEMS: low miles! All stock with the exception of electric fans and an '89 front bumper, Yokohama 225/50/16 with stock rims. It's a mess and in the garage. -1987 5 spd Turbo with TEMS: miss-matched tires, needs lots of work, but it runs! Project car. -1988 N/A auto targa: all stock except 18" rims with Falken 265/35/18 in rear and 225/35/18 in front; daily driver.

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